1010 final drive disassembly

[stmftr395]

Got the flanged axle out of the bull gear using a 5 ton port-a-power. Thanks for the help. My next question involves the removal of the bearing and quill from the flanged axle. As I read the manual I should pull the quill which inturn will remove the bearing. Have I read the manual correctly? The bearing appears to be in great shape, so I hope not to damage during the removal process. After the flanged axle bearing removal I will remove the final drive shaft. Any pointers for that task will be appreciated also. Thanks in advance.

[JAJ]

I am about at the same stage of disassembly as you are. My 1010 is a crawler loader. Loader and scarfier are removed and now I have removed the final drive housing and have pulled the flanged axle shaft. The bearing on mine did not have to be removed, I just had to pick out all the pieces of what use to be the bearing. What a mess!! I knew the left side had problems when I bought this machine three years ago last May (ya can't rush into these things) because the sprocket was about 10 degrees out of plumb in addition to the engine being stuck. Engine is now running great. The problem I'm having is trying to determine the amount of damage that has been done generally and more specifically the surface on the shaft where the bearing rides. It is scored, but I believe there is still about 75% of the original (ground) bearing surface so I'm guessing that is enough surface to reuse as is. But I wish I knew what the spec is regarding this diameter tolerance. The bull gear doesn't look to bad, but the pinion gear has gone bye bye. Soon I will be getting a shopping list together and give Lavoy a shout. Lavoy, are going to the Gathering in March? We missed ya in '06!!

[stmftr395]

Jim. I am about a year behind on my project also, but would rather take my time than rush and make big mistakes. The crawler I have was an one farm tractor. I don't belive it was ever worked too hard, but nor did it see the grease gun enough. The under carriage has required extensive repair/replacement of parts and pieces. The good side is that all of the internal components are at or close to factory specs. No signifigant gear, shaft or bearing wear. The right side clutch was froze when purchased. After tear down I discovered that the right side clutch housing had been cracked and repaired. I have replaced the housing and am replacing all of the seals and gaskets as I reassemble the steering cluthe/final drive assemblies. Would be foolish to have it tore down this far and be so lazy as not to replace these items. I appreciate your response. It is helpfull to dicuss these matters with others who have more experience, prior to the start of work. No pointers so far with the issues at hand so I am going to proceed as planned. Mark

[Lavoy]

Mark,
It should not come off that hard. Look at the pipe spacer to see if it is stuck on the axle, I have seen that before. You can apply some heat to the bearing and that may free it up.

Jim,
Axle bearing is a press fit, maybe .002-.003, if it does not, it will likely spin on the axle, then you are back to square one again.
Not sure about GOG, no I didn't make it last time. The one thought I did have it to see how many guys would want to have a get together at that time. We will be close to or past the 1000 member mark, really should have some sort of celebration. Moline is fairly centerally located as far as traveling for people. I need to dig out my vendor pack and look at dates again.
Lavy

[stmftr395]

lavoy
I have the flanged axle out of the final drive and am trying to remove the bearing and quill so as to allow access to the seal. This is the bearing am trying to remove. How hard should it be to pull this bearing? The final drive shaft needs to come out of the final drive housing also. Any pit falls to look for with that job?

[Lavoy]

Do you have the axle and such out of the housing? If so, it should not be that hard to get the bearing off, I would put some heat on it and try again.
Lavoy

[stmftr395]

Lavoy; Yes I have the axle out. How much heat will be needed? Will the heat damage the bearing? Should I plan on replacing the bearing. It appears to be in good condition at this point. Thanks for the help Mark

[Lavoy]

A few hundred degrees won't, but anything close to glowing and it is trashed. Given the cost of a bearing, and the hassles with getting it off, cut the cage so you can get heat directly on the inner race. Once it is glowing or close, pull it off.
Lavoy

[stmftr395]

Lavoy; Hate to cut that usa made timken bearing off. I will try a little heat and the puller one more time. If that does not get it I will follow your instructions. Thanks for the help.

[wwattson]

It's actually a pretty common bearing. I wouldn't sweat it if it's really stuck. I'd try a little heat and maybe a bit more force and I'll bet it comes off.

As to American made, the SKF bearings are also US made and both brands have a bearing that will fit this application. I would be more concerned with the retainer (the part held onto the final drive with four bolts) than the bearing as the retainer is the part you'll have trouble finding.

[stmftr395]

I appreciate all the input. The bearing is coming off today one way or the other. Mark

[stmftr395]

Just for gemeral knowledge. As Lavoy predicted I had to sacrifice the bearing to get the flanged axle retainer off so I could change the seal. I spent approximately 5 hours monkeying around trying to remove the bearing intact to no avail. Spent 5 minutes to remove the outer race and cage. Applied a little heat to the inner race and it popped right off. Some one had been there before me in the past, since the lip that would hold the seal has been machined off so that the seal can be pushed right through the retainer. A spacer was the brazed in place to replace the material that was removed. I will replace the retainer so that I do not have problems in the future.