Ripper dropping

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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ptrachte
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Ripper dropping

Post by ptrachte » Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:49 pm

1010 with Scarifier

The ripper will not stay up after raising it. There are no visible hydraulic leaks in the hoses or fittings, at least not big enough to warrant the rate at which the ripper drops. It only takes about 20 seconds to drop completely to the ground. Pretty annoying when you aren't trying to use the ripper. :)

My belief is that the seals on the cylinder(s) are shot. Is there anything else i should look for, like in the hydraulic control valves, before i tear them apart?
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joe
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ripper droping

Post by joe » Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:28 pm

to check the cylinders try puttin shut off vavles on the lines that lift the cylinders. raise it up and close the valves

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FarmLife
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Post by FarmLife » Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:33 pm

Another thing to try is to put blocks under the ripper (preferably the ripper frame) and try to lift up the rear end of the machine. If it cannot lift it and you don't hear the pressure release opening then your cylinders need some new seals. If it lifts to the full length and then the pressure release doesen't release then the cylinders prolly need some attention. If it lifts and stays then there is something wrong with the valve. Wether the valve is just overly worn or sticking, it may also be your culprit.
1934 GP Beaner
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
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mini kahuna
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Post by mini kahuna » Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:48 pm

farms right,if the cylinders can pick up the rear of the machine you don't have internal leaks in a cylinder,do you have good power when pressing it down into the ground,it should drive the teeth into the ground pretty easy.
the amount of leakage for it to drop that quick should be pretty easy to find,i would have to be a blown packing in a cylinder or a control valve problem.
I have seen cylinders blow a packing and the packing parts end up in the control valve too.
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ptrachte
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Ripper rips

Post by ptrachte » Thu Nov 15, 2007 3:43 pm

yeah the ripper definitely rips good when i actually use it. very powerful. it can stop the machine dead with the right soil. it doesn't give at all. but i'll try the lift test and let you know. thanks all!
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:03 pm

Those cylinders are likely a dual cup piston, so it is possible to have it leak on way, and not the other.
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Post by mini kahuna » Fri Nov 16, 2007 7:10 am

lavoy is right,didn't know they were a dual cup setup,you learn something everyday.
they can work fine in one direction and have a massive leak going the other.
I would say you have a blown cup seal in a cylinder.
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FarmLife
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Post by FarmLife » Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:19 am

I agree with Lavoy, I didn't even think about that, which would cause the problems you have now. It is still possible for there to be a problem with the valve, but I would recomend just rebuilding the cylinders because it can't hurt anything and would eliminate the cylinders if it does not fix the problem.
1934 GP Beaner
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420

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ptrachte
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Ripper seals

Post by ptrachte » Fri Nov 16, 2007 7:59 pm

Thanks. I did have a guy take apart the whole control for a different problem with the bucket, and he didn't mention anything about the rear control. It leaked before he took it apart too by the way.

What kind of parts issues am i going to face? should my JD guy be able to get em? seems like a pretty generic implement. (the ripper) at least as far as the cylinders.
Paul-1010 crawler/loader

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FarmLife
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Post by FarmLife » Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:13 pm

if you do not want to tackle the cylinders, any hydraulic shop can repair them. If you look in the business section of your phone book you should be able to find a hydraulic shop. There is not a whole lot to them but the threaded end can sometimes be a real pain to geet off. I know when a aluminum end is used in a steel cylinder they can really become stuck. But if you can get them apart there isn't a whole lot to them.
1934 GP Beaner
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420

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