storage myth?

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:34 am

Just looking for a few opinions here on this one... Has anyone ever heard of tying your clutch pedal and steering levers back while storing these old crawlers or any other equipment. It was suggested to me to prevent linings from "sticking or freezing-up" to flywheel or pressure plate. I have had a stuck clutch before on another tractor but was able to free-up while being towed in gear and jumping on both brakes as hard as I could with the clutch pedal strapped down. (sure felt lucky... after about a hour I thought I was going to have to split the tractor apart, then finally she broke free)

Thanks for any tips or advice

neil · Post by **neil** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:48 am

any kind of release spring would get weakened wouldn't it? There's the minus I can think of quick. clutches might slip on startup instead of "freeze". don't actually know which would be best.

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:53 am

I have heard a hundred different ways to store the dry clutch machines,to avoid the steering clutches rusting up,I startup and use the machine at least once a month for a little,even if using a rubber tired tractor makes more sense,the worst thing for any machine is to set unused for a period of time.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:49 pm

My 2010 has a dry clutch system. I asked the very same spring wear question and the response at the time was mixed about the pros/cons.

I started propping the levers back about 6 months ago after hearing the horror stories. In fact, prior to doing so I had one clutch stick after two weeks of non-use after a particularly humid and cold period, even covered. Thus, I started propping the levers back.

So far I have not had any problems with clutch weakness.

I agree that frequent use (weekly or better) combined with covering should make propping back unnecessary but don't want to take the risk since my use is intermittent and the crawler is covered but not garaged.

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:29 pm

Hi,

It seems to me that if left alone, the water vapor and oxygen in the air will have a harder time getting to the mating surfaces of the fiber and steel discs and screwing them up. If one props the levers back, that just opens up the space between the discs and would allow the offending gases greater penetration and cause the problems faster.

We (meaning my dad and now I) have not ever propped the levers back on the old 420c and have never had any form of sticking issues with the steering clutches since 1965 when dad forst got the old girl. It has not always been shedded, either, and has been known to sit for 3 or 4 months at a time without being used......

Stan

Stretch · Post by **Stretch** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 7:05 am

I have one tractor that the owner manual recommends blocking the clutch pedal down if the tractor is to be sitting for any amount of time. At first I diregarded this little piece of advice and lo and behold my clutch stuck.

I was able to get it to free up with a little effort though.

Ever since then the pedal gets blocked, I have been doing that now for the past 15 years and the clutch is still good. On a side note that particular tractor came out with a prop rod on later models.
All of my equipment sits in barns and out of the weather.
I haven't done that on my 2010 yet because I never even thought about it.
It does make since though. I do try to get around and fire up everything I own at least once a month.

Stretch

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:41 pm

Thanks to everyone for the replies- seems to be some mixed feelings, as expected. I have also heard of folks backing off valve springs for extended storage and leaving single cyl (motorcycles, generators, etc) on TDC. I think everyone agrees regular use is best, but if unable the question is whether this will compromise the pressure plate or not. I think the rust from moisture "allowed in" should not be an issue, it would get cleaned back up with a little use, (like a brake rotor does). Any more thoughts?

FarmLife · Post by **FarmLife** » Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:42 pm

I think that if you are going to store it on concrete in a building then I really wouldn't worry about it as much. But I tihnk that you could just hold the clutch down about half way that way it would be easier on the springs but even if it did rust it should be completely stuck like it would be with full pressure on it.

digitup · Post by **digitup** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:19 pm

My new Kubota tractor has a hook to hold the clutch open [Only when tractor is not in use] it says .Now this is a newer machine with a lot newer springs in the clutch but I guess that it would be beneficial to do this .I am sure that it was not just for the boat ride over!! ,Digitup.

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:04 am

Thanks digitup, and everyone. I have only replaced about 10 different clutches in my days and they were all due to oil saturation, preventive because I had it apart, or just worn linings... Im not sure if Ive ever done a clutch because of pressure plate not holding. I guess that my main concern is whether or not the pressure plate will lose holding power if stored with fingers depressed. I hate to find out the hard way (like usual).

My 40c will basically sit unused every year from about late October to March. Other than battery care, fluid changes, and a lot of wd-40 any other suggestions?

digitup · Post by **digitup** » Mon Dec 10, 2007 8:49 pm

I took the 40C for a romp the other night and a couple of hired men took turns around the shop after .It sat long enough to have the clutches go stiff it takes very little time to get the faces to rust in the humid conditions around here . I will get these guys to work on it they got a real kick out of something that they considered taking up space in the shop till now .Digitup.

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 3:51 pm

the 1010 sat for about 3 months and when I went to use it,one steering clutch was sticking and acting weird,ran for about an hour before it cleared up.
ever since I make a point of running it around for awhile about once a month.
seen a 350 so bad once the disc,fibers and hub became welded into one lump of rust.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:41 pm

I think a lot of the tie the steering lever back stories are relating to crawlers that do not have coordinated steering like the Deere's. If you tie a Deere back, you get limited movement, mininal pressure reduction on the pressure plate, and you are applying the brake. On the other brands, you can pull the lever back all the way to the seat and remove all the pressure on the steering clutches without applying any brake.
Lavoy

CCWKen · Post by **CCWKen** » Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:43 pm

Are you sure all the cover plates are in place? My 420 sits outside year-round through rain and humid summers in South Texas. It may sit for a couple of months or more between uses. I've never tied anything back or down. I guess I've been lucky but it fires up and goes to work on a moments notice.

Swawpy · Post by **Swawpy** » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:06 am

Thanks for all the feedback- With this machine (40c) I have not had any problems yet. I was warned from the previous owner that they had pulled the right side twice and the left final once because of condensation rusting the clutch lining to the pressure plate. I keep it undercover but have kept my "ears open" for advice... which was suggested to tie levers back. After Lavoys explanation it seems a waste of effort and maybe could freeze brake band? Wasnt sure and just fishing for ideas to prevent any headaches. Top vents are clear and I cut new gaskets just in case, bungs are tight.
Lavoy- any benefit to securing with the clutch pedal depressed or is it all unnecessary?

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