starting problems

tomcat4144 · Post by **tomcat4144** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 8:59 am

i was working on the 420c, adjusting the track alignment, running it in the driveway, nice and flat suface. right before i shut it down, i smelled a little gas. now it wont start. i`ve taken the carb apart, just rebuilt it last year, cleaned everything up and looks fine. cleaned the sediment bowl. checked the spark and looks good. starter was going out before, but is shot now. need a replacement now. it would fire once or twice and the starter would kick out. just won`t go? always started right off before. acts like its out of time. is it possible for timing to go out while running? will be checking the timing today. when it does fire, it is still coming thru the exhaust. have good compression. just double checked the valves, also ok. i`m baffled!!!

spooler · Post by **spooler** » Sat Jul 23, 2005 12:59 pm

She just idled down and stopped running..would fire, but not run.

my 420c had a bad position on the ignition switch...was messing with spark,air and fuel..then , by accident, bumped up the position of the ignition switch...Viola!...kept running and is working fine again.

you never know...good luck with your mystery!

Spooler

rvbarkley · Post by **rvbarkley** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 6:01 am

This may be pretty elementary and you've probabley already checked but, my MC floods pretty easily, have you checked your plugs ? My MC was also not wanting to start, had spark(weak), checked points, they didn't look good, replaced, starts great now ? Just a couple of items you didn't mention ? Good Luck, Roger B.

tomcat4144 · Post by **tomcat4144** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 1:59 pm

Thanks to both who responded, always a good thing to know what others have run across. i have not tried a different position on the switch yet, but i will. i just give a complete tune up last year, but of course that doesnt mean it wont help me out. at a standstill now until i fix or replace my starter. i did convert to 12 volt. believe the starter drive was getting pretty bad as it would want to kick out after engine would pop. anyway, whatever the reason, the starter broke out the back plate and completely fried the starter before i could get the battery unhooked. still have as yet to figure why i was getting constant power to the starter even after shutting of the switch? but i suppose with everything pushed to the rear of the starter it was making contact somehow. another question for everybody......anybody ever try to cross reference a starter? have a couple that would bolt up, one out of a 50`s jeep, the other out of a 55 2 ton truck, but both turn in the wrong direction. always can use for some parts tho. i know there is a book on cross referenceing car parts, about a $100 a pop. dont remember the name tho. be interesting to find out how many car/truck parts would work. thanks again, tim

CCWKen · Post by **CCWKen** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:36 pm

anybody ever try to cross reference a starter? have a couple that would bolt up, one out of a 50`s jeep, the other out of a 55 2 ton truck, but both turn in the wrong direction.[/quote]

To reverse a starter, all you have to do is reverse the field coils.

tomcat4144 · Post by **tomcat4144** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:29 am

Cool! didnt know it could be done. learn something new everyday. thank you

Howard Yoder · Post by **Howard Yoder** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:10 pm

check and make sure your teeth on the starter are angled for both ways.

tomcat4144 · Post by **tomcat4144** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 12:20 pm

to update my starting problem. i`m still baffled as to why it would not start, but i did get it going and starts up right now without a problem. i took the carburator apart and cleaned it several times. i put new plugs in and had good spark. checked the timing and it was dead on. still would not go. i finally went thru the whole thing again, but this time i squirted just a little oil in each cylinder and she fired right up and continues to do so. have yet to run a compression check, but with the plugs out and turning it over it sure seems like there would be plenty of compression. but, perhaps the float was stuck and flooded the engine just at shut down. too much gas washed the cylinders clean and just wasnt quite right to start up???? wish i knew! maybe just need to pray to the john deere gods more often?

Stan Disbrow · Post by **Stan Disbrow** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 4:02 pm

Hi,

I learned, decades ago, that these things flood *very* easily. My method of starting is to get the thing cranking over, and then pull out the choke, pushing the choke about halfway in as soon as the first cuylinder pops. They will flood if you have the choke pulled out and then work the started. Once flooded, they won't pop at all until the flooded condition is cleared, which will happen if you let it sit for a while. That might be what happened to you.

Stan

CCWKen · Post by **CCWKen** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 9:30 pm

My 420 won't start unless the choke is pulled. Once it starts, you have to immediately push the choke back in or it billows black smoke. With the slightest weak ignition, it would be easy to flood. Even old gas could be a culprit. I think this is a trait with up-draft carbs because I see the same problem with my '25 Model T and other engines with the up-drafts.

Post by **JD40c** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 11:35 pm

On my 40C, even at sub-zero temperatures, I give it just a little throttle, hit the starter with the clutch in (less drag), and pull the choke out for just a second (literally) and it'll light right off. When it's above 50deg F out, she doesn't need any choke at all.

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