jd 1010 unleaded
jd 1010 unleaded
just had a brain fart...was having trouble starting my 1010 last spring,rebuilt starter,carb new plugs & wires,just had a thought does this dozer run and start better with unleaded gas and if so should i add lead to the unleaded,can you tell i`m a roofer?
should of been a mechanic NOT a Roofer
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Lead isn't what helps here, it's fuel volatility and vaporization. Modern fuels aren't as volatile as the older stuff was. Doesn't matter much to computerized fuel injection systems, you see.
It does matter to our old iron with carbs, esp. updraft ones, though!
I find that using the higher octane pump fules makes it worse, too. The base 87 stuff works better, but still can use some help. I mix 1/2 100 octane racing gas ($6/gal these days) with 1/2 pump 87 octane ($3/gal) and - man - the thing fires right off on the first compression.
I have three of the old JD 2 cyl poppers and the mix really helped all of them out. I also have most of the folks in our local antique farm equip. club using the mix as well. One of the local gas stations caters to the local racing crowd, so they have a 100 octane pump.
Give it a try if you can find a local station with a 100 octane pump. If that fails, try your local airport. They usually have 100 octane unleaded as well.
Later!
Stan
Lead isn't what helps here, it's fuel volatility and vaporization. Modern fuels aren't as volatile as the older stuff was. Doesn't matter much to computerized fuel injection systems, you see.
It does matter to our old iron with carbs, esp. updraft ones, though!
I find that using the higher octane pump fules makes it worse, too. The base 87 stuff works better, but still can use some help. I mix 1/2 100 octane racing gas ($6/gal these days) with 1/2 pump 87 octane ($3/gal) and - man - the thing fires right off on the first compression.
I have three of the old JD 2 cyl poppers and the mix really helped all of them out. I also have most of the folks in our local antique farm equip. club using the mix as well. One of the local gas stations caters to the local racing crowd, so they have a 100 octane pump.
Give it a try if you can find a local station with a 100 octane pump. If that fails, try your local airport. They usually have 100 octane unleaded as well.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
hi,
I suppose that would work, but I'm not schooled on all the forms of additive octane boosting. What we need is a fuel that lights off easier, and many of those octane boosters are referring to the anti-knock aspects of octane (as in what the lead used to do for us, which we don't need in these low compression engines) as opposed to the volatility.
BTW, the reason I use a mix of race and pump gas in the old iron is that pure race gas makes the carbs ice up and look like a sno-cone as they pull the heat out of the metal to vaporize the fuel. Updraft carbs don't much like being iced up, as they tend to quit shortly thereafter as the passages block up.
There is another use for race gas, too - it cleans the varnish out of everything. This is the kind of gas that mechanics once used for cleaning fluid. Smells great both raw and after it's burned, too.
All in all, worth the extra money, especially in two-stroke engines where it can sit all winter and yet fire right up in the spring.
I just don't use it in things that I use a lot, or that use a lot of gas, like my cars and trucks. I use the old iron seldom enough that I don't notice the extra fuel cost, just that they start right up every time.
Later!
Stan
I suppose that would work, but I'm not schooled on all the forms of additive octane boosting. What we need is a fuel that lights off easier, and many of those octane boosters are referring to the anti-knock aspects of octane (as in what the lead used to do for us, which we don't need in these low compression engines) as opposed to the volatility.
BTW, the reason I use a mix of race and pump gas in the old iron is that pure race gas makes the carbs ice up and look like a sno-cone as they pull the heat out of the metal to vaporize the fuel. Updraft carbs don't much like being iced up, as they tend to quit shortly thereafter as the passages block up.
There is another use for race gas, too - it cleans the varnish out of everything. This is the kind of gas that mechanics once used for cleaning fluid. Smells great both raw and after it's burned, too.
All in all, worth the extra money, especially in two-stroke engines where it can sit all winter and yet fire right up in the spring.
I just don't use it in things that I use a lot, or that use a lot of gas, like my cars and trucks. I use the old iron seldom enough that I don't notice the extra fuel cost, just that they start right up every time.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Hi Stan-
Can you explain why super unleaded (or other higher octane pump gasoline) would make the crawler run worse than 87 octane? It seems that using super unleaded would accomplished the same goal (increasing the octane rating) as mixing 87 pump octane with racing fuel. Is it the other additives?
Can you explain why super unleaded (or other higher octane pump gasoline) would make the crawler run worse than 87 octane? It seems that using super unleaded would accomplished the same goal (increasing the octane rating) as mixing 87 pump octane with racing fuel. Is it the other additives?
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
The higher the octane the less volatile the fuel. Higher compression engines will ping on lower octane fuel because the fuel will pre ignite from the compression. Older lower compression engines due in fact start better on lower octane fuel because it is more volatile. Timing is equally important to engine starting. Mark
I understand a little better now- while the racing fuel has a higher octane rating (and thus less volatile) it has better deflagration properties due to its chemical composition and thus allows better overall combustion.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
All I ever put in mine was 87 octane unleaded. The engine was built to run on crappy fuel so why the fancy mixing?
Now the gas engines that were made around the 70's that were designed for leaded gasoline, you do NOT want to put low grade unleaded in, or valves will start falling off and other fun stuff.
Now the gas engines that were made around the 70's that were designed for leaded gasoline, you do NOT want to put low grade unleaded in, or valves will start falling off and other fun stuff.
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FarmLife
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:55 pm
- Location: Saint Clair, Michigan
- Contact:
If the crawler is only run once in a while a probelm could just be the seasonal blend of the fuel. If you try to run summer fuel in the winter you are going to have cold start problems because the summer fuel is less volitile (needs more heat to evaporate) compared to winter fuel. Winter fuel is more volitile (evaporates at lower temps) because of the colder air temps. So a winter fuel will evaproate very quickly in the summer and winter fuel will not start very well, if at all, in the summer.
SO if you fill up in the summer and then go back to the dozer in the fall or winter you will have starting problems, and vise versa.
SO if you fill up in the summer and then go back to the dozer in the fall or winter you will have starting problems, and vise versa.
1934 GP Beaner
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
This is true as long as we talk about pump gas. Once we get into racing fuels, things change. For example, the 100 octane rated unleaded race gas I use evaporates far more quickly than any pump gas does (plus leaves no residue at all) and works very well in the winter. It works too well in the summer, tending to cause icing of the carb, which is why I blend it with pump gas.
It comes down to a couple factors, one of which is that the stuff is triple distilled and the other is that the additives are quite different. Actually, that's the problem with the 93 octane pump gas - it has less actual gasolene in the mix and a greater amount of additives than the 87 octane pump gas does. Add to this the winter vs. summer additive mix for both and the problem becomes even worse.
Later!
Stan
This is true as long as we talk about pump gas. Once we get into racing fuels, things change. For example, the 100 octane rated unleaded race gas I use evaporates far more quickly than any pump gas does (plus leaves no residue at all) and works very well in the winter. It works too well in the summer, tending to cause icing of the carb, which is why I blend it with pump gas.
It comes down to a couple factors, one of which is that the stuff is triple distilled and the other is that the additives are quite different. Actually, that's the problem with the 93 octane pump gas - it has less actual gasolene in the mix and a greater amount of additives than the 87 octane pump gas does. Add to this the winter vs. summer additive mix for both and the problem becomes even worse.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
FYI
The higher the octane the more stable the fuel is. High octane fuel is normally used in high compression engines. The reason being that it would resist pre-ignition. You can also use high octane fuel for storage as it will not varnish like low or medium grade fuels do.
Fuel with an octane of 100 + will produce a very even flame front.
On low compression engines I would use a hotter plug to get the most from high octane fuels.
As a side note, I have stored a couple of vehicles for more than two years using high octane fuel and when I pulled them out they fired right up. You would have never been able to do that with low or med octane fuel.
Just my 2 cents
Stretch
The higher the octane the more stable the fuel is. High octane fuel is normally used in high compression engines. The reason being that it would resist pre-ignition. You can also use high octane fuel for storage as it will not varnish like low or medium grade fuels do.
Fuel with an octane of 100 + will produce a very even flame front.
On low compression engines I would use a hotter plug to get the most from high octane fuels.
As a side note, I have stored a couple of vehicles for more than two years using high octane fuel and when I pulled them out they fired right up. You would have never been able to do that with low or med octane fuel.
Just my 2 cents
Stretch
2010C Dozer, 2010C Loader
If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
My book says 7.6:1 so Lavoy's pretty close. I gotta tell you; this engine isn't that good to start with so don't go thinking you're going to get more out of it without huge problems shortly thereafter. If it's weak, then rebuild it to stock specs. From the looks of it, it can be a decent engine but never a high output, high compression, turbocharged, everybody watch me pull a wheelie with this crawler powerplant.
If you decide to go for it anyways, post pictures if you survive.
If you decide to go for it anyways, post pictures if you survive.
Bill Wattson
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