Now that's interesting, my manual lists the gas a 7.9:1. It is a 64 revision, what is your's Bill? I don't have another one to check, wonder if they changed it in the later manuals?
Lavoy
jd 1010 unleaded
Interesting indeed. It's from the 1010 Gasoline Agricultural Crawler Tractor Operator's Manual, OM-T15502. I can't find a date in it anywhere but the photos all show the early version control placements so I'm guessing it's an earlier version. The parts book doesn't show any change in heads or gaskets although it does look like the connecting rods got substituted at some point. Maybe it's just a typo.
Bill Wattson
No wheelies? That's a disappointment.wwattson wrote:My book says 7.6:1 so Lavoy's pretty close. I gotta tell you; this engine isn't that good to start with so don't go thinking you're going to get more out of it without huge problems shortly thereafter. If it's weak, then rebuild it to stock specs. From the looks of it, it can be a decent engine but never a high output, high compression, turbocharged, everybody watch me pull a wheelie with this crawler powerplant.
Actually I think it's a great engine. Maybe mine just runs especially good but it is pretty hard to bog it down. It'll slip the steering clutches and spin the tracks, though those do need attention.
edit: I just realized this is about the 1010 not the 420. *smacks head*
-
Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The quasi-fabricated pistons I have in my old 'M' (wheel tractor) increase the compression to around 9.5:1 and the thing *will* pull wheelies in the three lower gears. I always have a tool on the back just in case, and start the thing off with at an idle so it won't try and dump my onto my head.
The poor old thing still makes a great garden tractor, though.
Later!
Stan
The quasi-fabricated pistons I have in my old 'M' (wheel tractor) increase the compression to around 9.5:1 and the thing *will* pull wheelies in the three lower gears. I always have a tool on the back just in case, and start the thing off with at an idle so it won't try and dump my onto my head.
The poor old thing still makes a great garden tractor, though.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Is that the same engine as the 420?Stan Disbrow wrote:Hi,
The quasi-fabricated pistons I have in my old 'M' (wheel tractor) increase the compression to around 9.5:1 and the thing *will* pull wheelies in the three lower gears. I always have a tool on the back just in case, and start the thing off with at an idle so it won't try and dump my onto my head.
The poor old thing still makes a great garden tractor, though.
Later!
Stan
-
Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
No, it's the original 'M' engine still. The poor tractor was snapped in half when someone tried pull starting it with a 4WD truck after the ice formed inside the cylinders because they hadn't covered the stack.
The piston tops were caved in, so dad decided to repair the things. The end result is that the original dished domes are now flat-top and so the compression was raised by quite a bit.
The reason for the repair was that it was far easier and quicker to take the pistons into the machine shop and fix them than it was to get new ones. The tractor was a low hour machine until the faux-pas so there was no other reason to replace the pistons - other than the tops were all caved in like that.
You'd have to know my dad to understand why this made sense. He'd raced, quite sucessfully, for 20 years and always preferred to make parts rather than buy them, anyway. Plus, it only took him a couple hours to fix these and that was way faster than buying new.
It was supposed to be a 'temporary measure', since we also had to straighten out bent valves, rocker arms and pushrods as well. The idea was to get it running with zero expense and then figure out what shape the rest of the thing was in after being abused like that. You know, get it all sorted and then revisit the repaired parts on a second pass.
However, the danged thing ran *so* well that the 'temporary' measure has become a permanent one. We did this way back in 1987, so the old girl has been running on these fixes for over 20 years now. The sound out the stack is less of the usual 'pop-pop' and more of a 'crack-crack'. I get this big grin every time I fire it up, so I won't change anything until something gives up the ghost.
I use it as our primary garden tractor, with hillers, cultivators and the like. The only real issue is that if she gets to really working, as in pulling a plow bottom or two, then she'll overheat. The thermo-siphon cooling system isn't up to the job with the hot-rodding. Fortunately, she has a way of telling me to stop and idle for a while - when the steam starts coming out of the vent hole in the radiator cap.
I don't plow with it any more, anyway, having switched to a really nifty PTO roto tiller, which is run on a newer diesel machine anyway.
Later!
Stan
No, it's the original 'M' engine still. The poor tractor was snapped in half when someone tried pull starting it with a 4WD truck after the ice formed inside the cylinders because they hadn't covered the stack.
The piston tops were caved in, so dad decided to repair the things. The end result is that the original dished domes are now flat-top and so the compression was raised by quite a bit.
The reason for the repair was that it was far easier and quicker to take the pistons into the machine shop and fix them than it was to get new ones. The tractor was a low hour machine until the faux-pas so there was no other reason to replace the pistons - other than the tops were all caved in like that.
You'd have to know my dad to understand why this made sense. He'd raced, quite sucessfully, for 20 years and always preferred to make parts rather than buy them, anyway. Plus, it only took him a couple hours to fix these and that was way faster than buying new.
It was supposed to be a 'temporary measure', since we also had to straighten out bent valves, rocker arms and pushrods as well. The idea was to get it running with zero expense and then figure out what shape the rest of the thing was in after being abused like that. You know, get it all sorted and then revisit the repaired parts on a second pass.
However, the danged thing ran *so* well that the 'temporary' measure has become a permanent one. We did this way back in 1987, so the old girl has been running on these fixes for over 20 years now. The sound out the stack is less of the usual 'pop-pop' and more of a 'crack-crack'. I get this big grin every time I fire it up, so I won't change anything until something gives up the ghost.
I use it as our primary garden tractor, with hillers, cultivators and the like. The only real issue is that if she gets to really working, as in pulling a plow bottom or two, then she'll overheat. The thermo-siphon cooling system isn't up to the job with the hot-rodding. Fortunately, she has a way of telling me to stop and idle for a while - when the steam starts coming out of the vent hole in the radiator cap.
I don't plow with it any more, anyway, having switched to a really nifty PTO roto tiller, which is run on a newer diesel machine anyway.
Later!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Stan,
You need to do a serial number research on your M. IF you had dished pistons, those are the all-fuel pistons, you might have an all-fuel M, well worth checking into. The gas pistons are flat tops just like you have now, and yes it will be a real difference in how it runs. My all-fuel 420 was the most terrible dog you ever ran.
Lavoy
You need to do a serial number research on your M. IF you had dished pistons, those are the all-fuel pistons, you might have an all-fuel M, well worth checking into. The gas pistons are flat tops just like you have now, and yes it will be a real difference in how it runs. My all-fuel 420 was the most terrible dog you ever ran.
Lavoy
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