gearmatic winch
gearmatic winch
I am attempting to pull the side cover off my winch. I have removed the row of bolts around the outside, but the cover doesn't want to come off. Is there a trick to getting it off? I don't have an manual for the winch. Anyone have one or know if they are available still? Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks
cat10til2
thanks
cat10til2
JD 1010, 610 blade, winch, gas
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
- Davie Sprocket
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 11:37 am
- Location: Leduc Alberta, Canada
cover
I saw the two holes (top and bottom) and at first thought that they were dowel pins, but closer inspection shows that they are broken off bolts. I guess drilling and tapping is in my future. Makes me wonder what is stuck so bad inside that the cover won't come loose? The control unit was stuck as well, but that is now freed up and seems like it should be usable with some new cups and an o-ring in there. The handle is also broken off. Anybody have one?
thanks
cat10til2
thanks
cat10til2
JD 1010, 610 blade, winch, gas
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
They probably were broken off due to impatience. When you get them out, put some oil on the threads of the bolts you put in there and that will decrease friction a lot. Tighten them as evenly as possible, run them in by hand then turn snug with a wrench, then 1/2 turn to each side at a time or 1/4 turn if there is a lot of resistance. If they do not want to turn any further smack the heads with a hammer.
If the cover is ungodly stuck then heat may need to be applied, but I don't know exactly what you're dealing with so I can't say where.
If the cover is ungodly stuck then heat may need to be applied, but I don't know exactly what you're dealing with so I can't say where.
Stuck Cover
I believe there are internal dowel pins that are what are making it come off hard. Also someone might have used a liquid gasket to hinder removal.
My cover came off hard but the bolts are the best way.
JR
My cover came off hard but the bolts are the best way.
JR
cover
Thanks for all the tips. I was able to weld a 9/16 nut over one of the broken bolts and back it out that way. The other one I ended up drilling and tapping. Once that was done, I put in some new bolts and greased them up good. After careful tightening, and a little help from some well placed screwdrivers, the cover did come off. It was indeed stuck on the main bearing (thanks Lavoy). What I found inside was a mess of rusty parts. I started spraying with PB blaster and I am going to let them soak before continuing on. I am hoping that if I can get the brake band out, then the rest will come loose.
Other parts of the tractor are coming well. Both finals are rebuilt and reinstalled. The reverser cable is now operational. I am waiting on some new to me rollers and then I can replace the track frame and put the old track back on. I still have some governor work to do and will probably rewire the tractor. The harness that is there now is such a mess, it will be simpler to star over I think. It will probably sprout an aternator and avoid the generator / regulator headache as well. I have the push frames cleaned up and ready to weld a new beam inbetween them so that the blade can go back on too.
No shortage of things to do....this is a great BB....thanks to all for your help and advice.
cat10til2
Other parts of the tractor are coming well. Both finals are rebuilt and reinstalled. The reverser cable is now operational. I am waiting on some new to me rollers and then I can replace the track frame and put the old track back on. I still have some governor work to do and will probably rewire the tractor. The harness that is there now is such a mess, it will be simpler to star over I think. It will probably sprout an aternator and avoid the generator / regulator headache as well. I have the push frames cleaned up and ready to weld a new beam inbetween them so that the blade can go back on too.
No shortage of things to do....this is a great BB....thanks to all for your help and advice.
cat10til2
JD 1010, 610 blade, winch, gas
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
- JD440ICD2006
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2006 3:57 pm
- Location: South Carolina
Glad you got that cover off without cracking it, that is always a good thing.
I hear from time to time that water, yes water, is as good as anything for loosening rust. Even if it works slower, you have admit that the cost is lower than the spray cans of miracle oil.
I hear from time to time that water, yes water, is as good as anything for loosening rust. Even if it works slower, you have admit that the cost is lower than the spray cans of miracle oil.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)
Re: gearmatic winch
I do not have a vintage JD crawler, but do lurk on this site as it has much good information. I have an old Garrett Log skidder, that is equipped with a gearmatic 8A winch. I bought a manual from Garrett Enumclaw,cat10til2 wrote:I am attempting to pull the side cover off my winch. I have removed the row of bolts around the outside, but the cover doesn't want to come off. Is there a trick to getting it off? I don't have an manual for the winch. Anyone have one or know if they are available still? Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks
cat10til2
in Enumclaw WA, from Don Garrett, for $40.00 It is a complete winch manual, though a copy, but a good one. He also has a line on 8A parts.
Don Garrett (360) 825 2500. Keep thes old soldiers going!
Karson
Re: gearmatic winch
Have you tried their website? They have a lot of vintage winch manuals on-line, free for PDF download.cat10til2 wrote: I don't have an manual for the winch. Anyone have one or know if they are available still? Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks
cat10til2
it's alive
Well the old 1010 is running after many hours of work. The blade is on and back in one piece, the wiring is all new with a alternator and the tracks back on. I pulled it outside to push a little snow and it seems to work pretty good. It will push until it tries to stall the engine. I need to adjust the brakes a bit though, it isn't applying the brake enough to steer very well.
Next is to decide whether to put new chains on it or to search for a used set. I am leaning towards the new set and being done with it. I can get them for about $1600/pr plus a box of new bolts.
I haven't gotten back to the winch in quite a while. It is now at the bottom of the to do list and might have to wait until next winter.
cat10til2
Next is to decide whether to put new chains on it or to search for a used set. I am leaning towards the new set and being done with it. I can get them for about $1600/pr plus a box of new bolts.
I haven't gotten back to the winch in quite a while. It is now at the bottom of the to do list and might have to wait until next winter.
cat10til2
JD 1010, 610 blade, winch, gas
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
1968 case 530 CK, 1946 John Deere A, 1928 Ford Doodlebug, 1969 Minneapolis Moline with West forklift attachment
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