engine overhaul or buy one overhauled?

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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BLS
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engine overhaul or buy one overhauled?

Post by BLS » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:48 am

I need to have an engine overhauled for a 440IC.

Any thoughts on price to have one overhauled VS buying one already overhauled?
I found one overhauled and ready to install for $2500.

Thank you
Brian

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JD440ICD2006
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Post by JD440ICD2006 » Wed Feb 13, 2008 10:30 am

It has a lot to do with how much of the work you can do yourself. If you do it yourself, you save all of the labor cost involved and you know exactly what you have built.
If you are not wanting to play overhaul mechanic, chose a shop that is familiar with these engines and has a solid reputation.
This engine is very much like the JD M, 40, 420 engines, just more compression and HP.

Personally, I would not buy a rebuilt 440 engine from anyone unless I knew them pretty well.
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)

Ray III
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Post by Ray III » Wed Feb 13, 2008 8:27 pm

For $2500 I would definitely do it myself, but I've done a lot of engines already.

I think people who rebuild and sell engines for a living tend not to do as careful of a job as someone who is doing it on an individual basis. So if I had to pay for an engine, I'd pay a good local shop to do mine even if it was going to cost more. Then when something goes wrong, you don't have to hunt down some mystery company on the other side of the country!

Your post sounds like the engine you found isn't a mass-production deal though.

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Gil
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Post by Gil » Wed Feb 13, 2008 8:52 pm

Even a John Deere dealership should be able to rebuild it for you for less than $2500 and they certainly wouldn't be your cheapest option. The real question is what condition your engine is in. You can have a shop tear it down and see if you have any major expensive issues before they rebuild it. If you have a major problem you can still bail out for minimal expense.

A mass rebuild shop will likely not replace some marginal items that may last for a year or so (the warrantee period plus one day) but that you might want to replace since it is your own investment. Every dollar they put in the rebuild is a dollar they don't put in their pocket. A shop working hourly for you, however, will replace anything you authorize them to.

The good news is that even though these crawlers are fifty years old, you still can get nearly every replaceable component in the engine, either through John Deere or from an after market supplier.
JD440-ICD loader; JD440-IC bulldozer; JD440-ICD backhoe; JD440-I backhoe; JD440-I tractor; + five recumbent JD440-ICs

BLS
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Post by BLS » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:19 pm

I'm really not setup to do the overhaul myself.
Just wondering, what is the average cost of parts for an overhaul?
If I go to a shop I'll definately ask for a warrantee periof that includes an extra day. :)

Thank's for the good advice.

Brian

lizrad999
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Post by lizrad999 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:11 pm

I was debating rebuilding my engine myself at one point, and I remember seeing some engine sleeve/rebuild kits for around $1000.
If you can't do it yourself, pay a shop to rebuild yours.

My 2 cents..... 8)

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carolina crawler
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Post by carolina crawler » Sun Feb 24, 2008 7:27 am

If you can build a plastic model, you can rebuild an engine....basically, have a spot you can work in and get dirt and grease everywhere.get a parts washer, lots of rags, needed tools and disassemble it...as you do lay the parts out in the order you remove them.tag and bag bolts that go to certain items ,heck get about 5 small bottles of colored touch up paint and mark bolts were they go..once apart, have all the main rotating parts, crankshaft, rods,pistons and cylinder head inspected by a good machine shop..get all needed bearings,rings and such, engine assembly lube,and a manual on torque specs for the motor and go for it......as Yoda, once stated" Do or Do Not, there is No try"there not bad, just old and tight ,then once you do it, you have earned bragging rights as a engine builder....I am sure you have someone that could help you on the side also....take photos of throttle linkage or or items that may confuse you, so you have a refence to go back to if you get stuck, sort of like when they make movies,,,,hence a story board....research and read, teach yourself, you can do it>

RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:32 am

boy the last time I tryed doing one of those plastic models I had a real rough time--couldn't get a good reading on bearing crush the plaster gauge just squzzed right in with the bearing cap and i didn't get good reading--valve spring tool broke plastic valve springs--ridge reamer and cyl. hone ate up cylender wall and I couldn't get good reading with my inside micks to check cyl. bore couldn't tell if crank was worn or built that way didn't even try to check lift on camshaft bottom of cam follers looked good didn't need torq wrench or feeler gauges couldn't find timing marks ring compressor didn't seem to work like it should cam bearing tool i didn't need- eng. hoist and stand i didn't need--a little humor--watch them mechanics that build these thing for a living--there out to get your money
just call them and get the advise for free
just having fun Randy deere mechanic forever

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carolina crawler
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Post by carolina crawler » Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:10 pm

YOU TOO, Man I had the same problem, Was yours a AMT MODEL?..Dam Gm making them engines too easy to build, Good ole Generous Motors..Long Live the Firebird......I am going to put a big block in my crawler with a dual carb set up and a blower with Nitrious, and water injection, dry and wet sump oiling, with twin cams in each head.and 2 cherry bomb mufflers, right off the headers..........yeeeeeee..haaaaa............Ring my phone........

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