1010 final drive lube?

[stmftr395]

The manual calls for a straight 90 weight gear lube for the final drives on my 1010, if my memory serves me right. A muti viscosity 80/90 is what is most places carry. A friend of mine who sells oil for a living says he would use the straight weight if at all possible. I have two questions and they are.
#1) What has been your experience with this issue.
#2) If you use straight weight ,where do you purchase it.
Thanks in advance. Gotta love this web site. Mark

PS Making my own replacement rams for the hydraulic(grease) track adjusters. Mine were rusted/pitted real bad. 2" pipe is just what the doctor ordered.

[Lavoy]

Run the multi-weight. Keep in mind that the manual you are reading was printed in the 60's, there have been some pretty significant advances in the types and weights of lubes availalbe. I run 75W-140 synthetic in all of mine if the final has been rebuilt, otherwise 80W-90 or 85W-140 conventional oil.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

The manual calls for a straight 90 weight gear lube for the final drives on my 1010, if my memory serves me right. A muti viscosity 80/90 is what is most places carry. A friend of mine who sells oil for a living says he would use the straight weight if at all possible. I have two questions and they are.
#1) What has been your experience with this issue.
#2) If you use straight weight ,where do you purchase it.
Thanks in advance. Gotta love this web site. Mark

PS Making my own replacement rams for the hydraulic(grease) track adjusters. Mine were rusted/pitted real bad. 2" pipe is just what the doctor ordered.

Viscosity isn't (or wasn't) the major issue. Modern gear oils - e.g. 80W-90 are the same viscostiy as 10W-40 motor oil. Straight 90W gear oil is the same as 40W engine oil. The numbers have different meaning for the two uses. Deere specs originally called for a GL4 80W or 90W gear-oil instead of modern GL5. That, because GL5 used to have some EP additives that allegedly caused corrosion in some metals - especially bronze thrust washers and synchros.. It's kind of a dead issue since those additives are rarely used anymore. I'd be more concerned about finding a motor oil that still has the additives older engines need. It's been quietly phased out of most major motor-oils since newer engines with better alloys - or roller lifters - don't need the additives.

If you're redoing your adjuster pistons - you might want to consider recutting the groove to accept the 350C style seal - if it's the same diameter. If my memory is correct, it is. We recut all the older 350s to use the seal since it works much better - especially in worn adjuster-cylinders.