1010 LOADER STEERING TROUBLE

[BROKE AGAIN]

here we go again.
when i was just about done pushing snow last week to get to my sap pails, the right side began to get sluggish. both sides were working great hardly any effort on lever and track would lock up and crawler came around like it was supposed to. now i'm bottoming out the lever on the right side to do it.
left side still works perfect. strange because it wasn't a slowly get worse problem. one minute fine, the next what the*@%%#!

so when i got home, got the manual out and did exactlly what it said too adjust clutch and brakes. did both sides. left side works perfect . right side a back breaker.
did notice when i got covers off that the good side got my fingers dirty. while the poor side had the slightest amount of grease. small enough so it was barely noticable.
no drop in level of transmission gear oil.
there is a small hydrolic leak underneath the bucket controls that drips directlly over top of said final. when i say small, i meen like a maple tap in a half-dead trunk on a overcast day. (1 drip every 5 to 8 seconds)

on another off shoot. i read somewhere else that engine kits for the 2010 have gone the way of the dinosaurs, and honest business men.
does the same hold true for the 1010? the wife would hate to find out that my investment will last only as long as my mechanic ability.

[Lavoy]

Sounds like you might have some oil on the clutch discs, but that still should not have been a sudden problem.
There are no engine kits, but the parts to rebuild are availalbe, but a little pricey. I have 4 deck sleeves on order now, I have had them on backorder for 3 months or more, but they say they are coming.
Lavoy

[jdemaris]

i read somewhere else that engine kits for the 2010 have gone the way of the dinosaurs, and honest business men.
does the same hold true for the 1010? the wife would hate to find out that my investment will last only as long as my mechanic ability.

Engine kits were never available - not even when the 1010s/2010s were new.

In regard to the steering - did you adjust the brake-band take-down nut first before adjusting the linkage?

When you hold your foot down tight on the foot-brake-pedal, can you still move both steering levers freely?

[BROKE AGAIN]

got my wisdom teeth and one other tooth cut out. so been inside for a few days......

levers work good with or without brake depressed

book said to loosen lock nuts on linkage. set steering lever free travel. adust steering rod to touch clutch fingers. tighten lock nuts. then tighten brake band screw making sure it's on the flat position. turn brake set screw till it hits crank arm and back of 3 turns. then back off brake band screw 1/4 turn ending in detent .

so will assume i have too take track off and final drive. and at the least might as well replace seal and brake band.

and will probably find something else to spend money on once it's opened up.
is it posssible that oil trouble could be coming from hydrolic leak directly above final? will find and fix regardless. only drip on it.
thanks

[jdemaris]

turn brake set screw till it hits crank arm and back of 3 turns. then back off brake band screw 1/4 turn ending in detent .

I haven't read the book in 30 years - and am not up to speed on what Deere uses in their verbage. You HAVE to get initial adjustment done on the brake-band size adjuster first - before you fool around with the linkage. Turn the knob-nut that is on the threaded stud that is attached directly to one end of the brake-bank. Turn it clockwise until snug - then back it off 1/2 turn or one flat - if you have spring-loaded flats. If you don't do this first - the brake will never grab properly.