JD2010 stoped running after fuel hose replacement

[2010friend]

My buddy was given and pretty nice JD2010. It needed cold start fluid to get going. But once started, it would run o.k. Then he replaced the fuel hoses and added some diesel fuel stabilizer. Unfortunately, he used four times too much stabilizer.

We purged the tank, filters, and lines and added fresh fuel. We kept purging until the contaminated (with red colored stabilizer) fuel looked pristine. The lines were purged by cracking the nut on the lines. We did not use the bleed screws at the top on the ejectors because at the time we did not have the manual and thus didn't know they were there. However, it looked like fuel was flowing out the lines with some what good pressure. The fuel out of the lines was clean. We're sure we got the bubbles out of the filters. We turned it over with starting fluid but it would only keep running if we kept spraying the fluid in the air intake.

We then removed the glow plugs. We think two of the plugs were bad. One had a hole in the tip, the other had the terminal missing off the top (but it could have fallen off during plug removal). QUESTIONS:

- If this was a simple glow-plug problem, why did it run prior to the fuel line replacement?

- Is it possible that the problem results from not purging using the bleed screws on top of the iinjectors?

- Any suggestions?

[Eric.MacLeod]

ran my brothers cat d3 out of fuel, tryed to start it for about four hours i tryed everything to get it to run no luck, gave in went and got friend who owned a garage, dozer was running in ten minutes he bleed the line that was the longest to the shortest, fired right up! i thought i knew alot untill then, im sure lavoy could tell you how to have this up and running in no time... good luck

[RANDY Fay]

check and see if linkage is turning pump on at manual shut off--and yes you should bleed at injectors using ether on a glow plug eng.is not a good thing red hot glow plugs and ether do not get along very well--repair glow plugs check to be sure starting prime pump on dash is working-- sometimes on these gravity feed systems you have to bleed more than once have fun Randy

[jdemaris]

My buddy was given and pretty nice JD2010. It needed cold start fluid to get going. But once started, it would run o.k. Then he replaced the fuel hoses and added some diesel fuel stabilizer. Unfortunately, he used four times too much stabilizer.

If it was running OK I'm wondering why you added the stabilizer. And, what was it? With most stabilizers - you won't affect anything by adding four-times too much - except your wallet. And - diesel fuel can last 20 years without going bad anyway - so it's usually not a concern.

Using ether on any engine that has indirect-injection is a mistake - especially something the vintage of a 2010 with brittle piston rings that break easy - and precombustion chambers that like to crack with ether.

The rotary injection pump on that engine - when in good shape - is self bleeding. As long as air-free fuel is getting to it at the inlet- and fuel can get out of return - and the metering valve is turned on - it will start. Cracking the injector lines at the injectors and bleeding them a bit can make things go faster and perhaps avoid killing the batteries.
What does happen in older machines e.g. 1010s and 2010s is this. They are the first John Deeres to ever use the Stanadyne pumps - and those pumps are a little crude by later standards. They have their own built-in fuel pump and it uses two fiber pump vanes that do NOT self-adjust for wear. So, when those pumps get some use - they lose capacity to bleed themselves well. Later Stanadyne pumps got spring-loaded steel pump vanes instead and are less subject to wear-related priming problems.

Outside of all that - if your cold-starting diesel-fuel primer is working properly - and the glow plugs work - it ought to try to start even if the pump is NOT primed yet.

[jd1010]

After reading a response on here warning me about ether use on my 1010 I spoke with a local mechanic friend of mine. He confirmed that ether should be used in very limited amounts, if at all. There was talk about having to use ether may be telling of a problem.

So the problem with mine may be something as simple as the glow plugs are not operating. I have tested them to the connector and they do get power. After speaking with him I decided not to start it again until I obtained new glow plugs. The last thing I want right now is a lawn ornament.

The local dealer would have to order them and they cost over $100.00 each. I looked on ebay and was able to purchase a new set of 4 for $107.00 delivered. The link for later serical numbers is below. If yours is earlier they offer that too.

Diusclaimer :::: I am new to this and only pasing along my experience. Anyone with more knowlege of this area ( and that will be just about everyone ) please feel free to correct me or comment.



http://cgi.ebay.com/JOHN-DEERE-1010-AND ... dZViewItem

[jdemaris]

I looked on ebay and was able to purchase a new set of 4 for $107.00 delivered. The link for later serical numbers is below. If yours is earlier they offer that too.

You got a pretty good deal. Those glow-plugs are made by the British company Wellman - that usually goes by the name W.A.P. Dealer's cost for those plugs is $15 each if bought 100 at a time. The ones for the 1010 and 2010s that are cheaper are made by May Co. in China - and I think that's what Deere is selling now.

One note. The OEM plugs were single-coil and very easy to burn out. The new Wellman plugs are dual-coil /self-regulating - and in theory - they are almost burn out proof. I say "almost" because I've still seen a few blow. Mostly in military diesels with bypassed plug-timers.

If you ever need to check plugs while installed - use an ampmeter and check each one quickly for amp-draw. Burned out plugs draw zero.

[Ray III]

Ether is fine in small amounts (NOT with glow plugs!) like a 1 second burst into the intake before cranking.

As for blasting the engine full of the stuff, I remember a pretty interesting motor job that would discourage me from doing so. A small John Deere skidder that went BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM when you ran the engine (couldn't get it inside the shop fast enough). On teardown I found that in one cylinder the top piston ring had been shattered into about two dozen pieces, the rod bearing shattered in one spot, and the rod bushing had been extruded into a leafy bit of brass sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. The missing rod bushing was allowing the piston to slam into the cylinder head at the top of the stroke. Also found a large can of ether in the cab, which was confiscated.

[Tigerhaze]

If you ever need to check plugs while installed - use an ampmeter and check each one quickly for amp-draw. Burned out plugs draw zero.

Hi JDE-

Can you explain this a little more for me (i.e. what do you mean by quickly checking each one) and where exactly do you contact the multimeter probes? Electrical isn't my strong suit.

Thanks.

[tuney443]

I ALWAYS spray ether AFTER I crank the engine over 3-5 seconds or so.That way there's some lubrication cushion for that sudden quick combustion when she fires up.

[Stretch]

All you need to do to check the glow plug is a DVOM. Put it on the lowest resistance scale and read from terminal to case or engine block. The reading will be about .8 ohms +/- if the glow plug is good.

[jdemaris]

[Hi JDE-

Can you explain this a little more for me (i.e. what do you mean by quickly checking each one) and where exactly do you contact the multimeter probes? Electrical isn't my strong suit.

Thanks.

A multimeter does not give a reliable test for a glow plug. A resistance test does NOT test the plug under load. Testing should be done by amp-draw while hooked to power. The plugs used in the 2010 draw 5 to 7 amps each at 9-11 volts.

I don't rely on multi-meters to check glow plugs unless the meter has a good amp-scale. Using a multimeter on the ohm-scale to do resistance checks does not always work. I've had a few glow-plugs that checked out fine on the resistance scale but still did not work properly.

A glow plug draws current in order to make heat - and that draw changes as it gets hot. A resistance check doesn't let the plug actually heat up and therefore is not a thorough "under load" test.

Any amp gauge hooked in line with one glow-plug at a time works fine. The reason why I mentioned "test quickly" is . . . some glow plugs are not designed to run at full battery voltage for more than a second or two. It's not a problem with the 2010, but is with many other diesels. My International Harvester uses five glow-plugs hooked in series. If I tested any one of them alone with full battery voltage the plug would burn out in a few seconds. 2010 plugs are hooked in parallel, not series and all can handle full battery voltage.

You can buy new plugs from Wellman. They cost around $25 each - don't get ripped off by Deere. The early serial # plugs that take a 5/8" wrench are Wellman #6A467G011. The later and smaller plugs that take a 3/8" wrench are # 6A467G019.

[Tigerhaze]

Thanks for the clarification- I had done a resistance check and they had checked out OK but it is also obvious to me that they are not working. Thus, your explanation was very helpful to me.

Lavoy is working on getting me some new glow plugs; he was out of stock when I last checked with him.