R&R started on my 420-C

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Thu May 29, 2008 9:14 pm

Tonight I pulled the left side track off the crawler and have a few questions on the that side . After I got the track off from under the track frame , I check to see how much slop was in the idler bushings . The bushings have a little slop but the right idler bracket can be lifted about an 1/8" . the left idler bracket does not seem to have any slop in it .
Are there shims available to correct this or do I need to wait until I take it apart to see if the guide and adjuster bracket are worn ?
The rivets on one of my side frame to crossmember brackets are loose and the service parts manual shows rivets to replace the them . How is this repaired today . Grade 8 bolts and Loctite ? they appear to be 3/8" rivets now , I remember reading a thread about it but can not locate it . Since I have to swap the tracks end for end to get the pads pointed in the right direction I would like to fix this before something else gets broken because of the loose rivets .
The mating surface between the steering clutch housing and the transmission is leaking oil so it looks like the transmission seals (both sides) are shot and they will be coming off to replace them .
Any suggestions will be gladly accepted . Night all for tomorrow is another day in the ditch

Dan

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri May 30, 2008 8:24 am

The sideframe brackets are supposed to be hot riveted on. Bolts do not fill the holes up completely and will allow the bracket to shift and loosen back up. You can put all new bolts in, and then weld the bracket to the sideframe, or at least put a couple of long stitches on it.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:22 am

Thanks , Lavoy . I will do that . Dan

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:58 pm

Do you have the rivets Lavoy? How do they work, just heat with a torch and smash in place with an air hammer with rivet bit?

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:52 pm

I do not have the rivets, I have the riveting done at a local machine shop. The rivets need to be white hot I believe, and then installed and riveted almost instantly. All of this is beyond my skill level, so I let the proffessionals do it.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:50 pm

Lavoy I was looking at the holes that the rivets are in yesterday and they look to be oblonged out . So it will be the bolt and weld method of repair on them . Might make an additional plate for the inside to help spread the load more effectively .
I was puttering yesterday on the crawler while waiting on a friend to show up and discovered that the wiring harness behind the panel was Fried

. No wonder the battery would not hold a charge ! Removed the whole harness and will be building a new one . Once that was done I decided to take the instrument panel housing of to remove several broken off bolts . I managed to get everything but the rollpin in the throttle lever out without breaking anymore bolts or snapping anything important in two

. The roll pin has probably been in there since the crawler was new and will not budge , short of taking the O/A torch to it and heating the base of the lever red hot and then trying to drive the pin out is there anything I can try short of this as the lever is still in one piece . It looks as if the pin is a hardened one and would just eat up drills . I thought I might be missing the obvious answer to this problem . I am planning on blasting all the parts and repainting them as I go here while I am acquiring money to do the final drive and steering clutch rebuilds . Dan

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 8:39 am

After enough drill bits, that pin will drill out, small drill bits are cheap.
I can get wiring harnesses, complete with taillight harness and all the dash wires, about $130 if you don't want to mess around.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:57 pm

Lavoy , got the roll pin out of the throttle lever after heating it and driving it out from the other side

. Now on to the lever itself .

I am going to build a puller to pull it tonight as it is raining outside right now . Dan

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:09 pm

If you have the hood off, you can push the throttle lever shaft backwards and get the throttle lever away from the dash a little bit. Hold it from going back forward with a Vise-grip against the throttle bracket. Now you should be able to get some heat onto the hidden portion of the throttle lever and that should free it up.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:35 pm

Lavoy I have the hood off the crawler and have the shaft wedged forward , I was planning on building a puller tonight but I am stuck in front of the computer wet nursing a friend on the web through putting in a water heater on another board , it is slow but he is getting there his last post he was ready to hook up the power and turn it on . Luckily he is a certified electrician
So while I was waiting for his posts I read through "Show & Tell" in one of the threads Bill Watson was going to weld in "new" metal into his track frames where the idler brackets mount . He was going to use 4140 steel to do this , I have a pile of 1018 and was wondering if it would be usable to replace both sides of the track frame that has gone south on me . I am a certified welder for pipe so getting it welded in would not be a problem .
It is getting to the point of pulling the engine and center frame while I have it this far down to free the clutch shaft from the brake cross shaft . It never ends right now . But it will be worth fixing what I find before having to fix it in the woods

. Dan

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:42 pm

That should be fine. The track frames are not hard, but they are good steel. You can also build them up and grind them down.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:12 pm

I will have to get the idler wheel off and the blade off of it before making a decision on how to rebuild it but from what it looks like , the flanges thickness is too thin to take a build up .
I have to repair the pin holes in the blade control handle as the pins have egg shaped the holes . I am heading out to the shop to see if the it is cast iron or cast steel . That will determine which process I will use to repair the holes .
Thanks , Dan

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Thu Jun 05, 2008 5:54 pm

Hi: Id be interested in hearing what your planning to do to reduce the slop. I chose to use brass bushings and epoxy-steel, but I considered brazing in the bushings. Thanks, Paul

teighs · Post by **teighs** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:25 am

I used to have a 2010 with a 6 way blade. When I got it the control handle was very loose. It had enough meat to it so I was able to drill all the holes out to fit the next size roll pin. Tightened it up as good as new.

olrobk · Post by **olrobk** » Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:56 pm

I'm going to try drilling out my holes on the sloppy bucket controller for a 1010 loader. JD built everything heavy... if not to last. There seems to be plenty of meat in the castings. I'll report if anyone cares. Any thoughts on this? Thx, Rob

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R&R started on my 420-C

R&R started on my 420-C

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