Installing master pins in tracks

robotmaker · Post by **robotmaker** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:33 am

Any suggestions on installing new master pins in new rails? These pins came with 4 belleville washers and two flat washers. Do the flat washers get welded on? Do the belleville washers get installed between the leading and trailing links? Any suggestions on installation tools?
Almost back on dirt.
rj

pdmech08 · Post by **pdmech08** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:35 pm

rj: The flat washers should be beveled on one outside edge. The beveled face goes against the bushing. The two bellville washers go opposite each other to form a spring type affair and go behind the heavy flats (2 on each side). Ideal tooling for the job would be a hydraulic master pin press, but I doubt you have one of those laying around. So....in lieu of that a good sledge and maybe some heat on the link. Good Luck. Steve

robotmaker · Post by **robotmaker** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 6:10 pm

Thanks for the input Steve. I am still not getting it though. I see the large 1/8" thick washers with the bevel on one side and I understand the concept of the bellville washers forming a spring, however, what would be the order of installation? Insert pin then insert bellville washers then the big washer then tack weld? I can't quite see the reason for the bellville washers then. Thanks for your patience.
rj

pdmech08 · Post by **pdmech08** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:30 am

No welding at all. There are counterbores in the inside of the master link. Each counterbore should get 2 belville washers first then the heavy washer. They are not held in in any way. You just have to guide things together as you go. So working from the outside of chain you will have first the pin, then 1/2 of the master link, then 2 belville washers, then the heavy washer. If you email me directly I could probably send you a picture. Wasn't able to figure out how to post pics here. Steve[/img]

robotmaker · Post by **robotmaker** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:00 pm

got it now Steve. Thanks. As I understand it, you start by inserting the bellville washers back to back into each of the inboard counterbores of the outside (two) links and then the large flat washer. Now place the one part of the master link (center section) into this spring sandwich. Once that is in place, insert master pin. I assume keeping the pin in the freezer for 24 hours before attempting this would be beneficial too.
I think I got it right and can see what it does.
thanks again.
rj

pdmech08 · Post by **pdmech08** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:18 pm

Sounds like you got it. Freezing the pin may help if you work quickly. But once the pin touches the link it will warm up rapidly. Especially if heating the link first. Steve

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:57 pm

Would it help to use a undersize bolt placed in the bore from the back to hold the master links and washers in place while you drive in the master pin?
I suppose you would have to put some silicone on it9and lit it set) to glue it in so it didn't spit out the back the first time you drove the master pin up against it with a good wallup.

Chuck

robotmaker · Post by **robotmaker** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:36 am

I guess I am on the right track (no pun intended) when I machined up a temporary pin that is .020 undersize and installed it just to run the rails around to check if these 1-3/4" bushings were going to climb on my old used 1-9/16" sprockets. I am hoping that will hold it in place while I am inserting the actual master pin. Wish I had some LN2 to cool these pins with. (liquid nitrogen)

pdmech08 · Post by **pdmech08** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:52 am

Dry ice works too. That can be had in most places. Steve

The Fireman · Post by **The Fireman** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:31 pm

I usually clean the inside of the bore real good then just hammer the pin through. Works great on smal machines, bigger machines (like a 330 excavator) take a bigger hammer but it still works.

Grease will hold the flat washers and belviews in place good the toughest part is getting the inner link to fit between them. Good luck

OneWelder · Post by **OneWelder** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:01 pm

Take some mig weldind wire, tie washers in ,at couplr of places, - when you drive in pin it will cut the wirw off.
I freeze master pin , overnight if possibly- every little bit helps

robotmaker · Post by **robotmaker** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:28 am

OK, I froze the pins for 3 days. I heated up the link to just where spit would sizzle on it and tried to beat these pins in ... and there ain't no way they are going in without a press. After everything cooled off I took some measurements and the pins measure 1.187 OD and the hole it has to go in at 1.176 ID.. no way I'm going to hammer that in. It appears that what was shipped along with the rails is not a "master pin" but just a regular pin. I should have taken the measurements up front of course but I suffer from :ready, fire, aim disease. I guess I will just put in a pair of temporary pins until I can figure out how to get the entire crawler to someone who can press the right ones in for me. Unless, of course, anyone has a better suggestion?
thanks
rj

pdmech08 · Post by **pdmech08** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:09 pm

Get the correct master pins and repeat the procedure. It CAN be done, we do it here all the time. Steve

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 5:22 pm

Something is wrong, it should not be that difficult. Not that I know what it is, but something is up.
Lavoy

wwattson · Post by **wwattson** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:27 pm

I'm with Lavoy and pdmech08 on this one. I think the correct pin diameter for a regular pin is 1.181" if they're the same as the 350 pins. For the 1010 rails, the master pin is .006" smaller than the 1.000" hole.

I think you've got the wrong pin or at least one that is out of spec. The pin has got to be smaller than 1.181" to be the right pin. Deere normally adds 2 to 3 thousands for replacement pins but you'll never get the pin you have through that hole. My guess is the original pin was 1.175"+/-0.002" and a replacement would be 1.178".

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