1010c won`t fire

roofdog · Post by **roofdog** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 1:34 pm

put in rebuilt starter,new plugs wires,set points and condenser,ran new wires to coil,new wires to starter,voltage regulator and key switch which has only :battery-ignition-accessory,charged battery,put in new wico coil but distributor say prestolite on a tag on locking clip,ground is good,but i can`t get a spark or volts going to the plugs,i only have wires going to starter,coil,generator,voltage regulator and key switch,any help would be appreciated.

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 3:21 pm

you do not mention a hot wire going to the distributor. or one from switch to distributor. or from coil to distributor. with switch in on position check for voltage at wire going into distributor.

roofdog · Post by **roofdog** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 3:38 pm

there is a new negative wire going to the distributor from coil and a positive going from coil to resistor to key switch

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:27 pm

I am not familiar with the ignition sysem of the 1010, but assuming that it is a neg ground system, you should be able to for trouble shooting purposes only, run a wire directly from the battery, positive post, to the coil and then to the distributor, bypassing both the resitor and the switch. if you then have a spark the problem would be in the switch or the restitor. The switch on my MC will sometimes will not make connection and there will be no ignition spark. if the battery is a 12 volt, make sure that the coil is also 12 volt. Not sure what the resisitor is for.

figuring these things out is what is fun.

Have Fun!

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:27 pm

I some how posted the same message twice. Will figure this out someday!

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jul 06, 2008 11:59 pm

1010 is positive ground, the positive wire should be from coil to dist, and a neg wire to coil. May not have a large effect, but if a coil is hooked up backwards, you will lose spark.
Lavoy

JD440ICD2006 · Post by **JD440ICD2006** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:23 am

See my post titled "Ignition", I was replying to you but I hit "New Topic" by mistake.
Did you figure it out yet?

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:24 am

Three things to test ,
1. test for voltage at the coil , coming from the ballast resistor should be 6 volt or there abouts . If you have voltage there than the switch is working correctly .
2. Test or voltage at the distributor with the wire coming from the coil disconnected from the terminal on the distributor . If you have voltage there than test the terminal on the distributor for continuity to ground with the points open and closed and the condenser disconnected . If you have continuity with the points open then the insulator for the terminal is bad .
3. Replace the condenser with a new one or one that is known good . If you have spark at the points by opening them with a screwdriver then it is down to the coil being bad .
While checking the points for spark you can determine if the coil is working by attaching a plug and wire to it's tower and grounding the plug .
The Ballast resistor reduces voltage from 12 volt to 6 volt . If the Wico coil is a 12 volt coil with an internal resistor like most Ford coils are then you would not need to run a separate ballast resistor .
These are general test procedures for most all point style ignitions . The bad insulator on the distributor terminal happened on one of my magneto ignition Wisconsin TJD engines and gave me fits until I found it .
Dan

roofdog · Post by **roofdog** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:14 pm

i will copy and print everything that all you kind gentlemen have posted so when i return to camp i will give it your all,my jd1010 is 110 miles from where i live,we have a cabin near the central pa border and a home in niagara falls,if i could afford a trailer i would bring it home till it was fixed,but all i can do now is poke at her every other weekend.

roofdog · Post by **roofdog** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:23 pm

Lavoy,on the schematics diagram it shows positive from coil to distributor,i did that and the negative wire goes to the starter switch witch has 4 connectors on it but i only have a 3 prong switch and it does have ignition on it witch the negative is hooked to.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:26 pm

I know there was an ignition switch change/update during the life of the 1010, that might explain the extra terminals.
Lavoy

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:54 am

roofdog wrote:put in rebuilt starter,new plugs wires,set points and condenser,ran new wires to coil,new wires to starter,voltage regulator and key switch which has only :battery-ignition-accessory,charged battery,put in new wico coil but distributor say prestolite on a tag on locking clip,ground is good,but i can`t get a spark or volts going to the plugs,i only have wires going to starter,coil,generator,voltage regulator and key switch,any help would be appreciated.

As far as the thing starting - it's not going to make a difference which coil you use, nor will it matter if you hook power to its neg or pos terminal. Most of these factors affect cold starting and breaker-point longevity in the long-run - not initial starting.

If your points are making - and breaking contact when the engine spins - and they are connected to one side of the coil - and the other side of the coil is gettting power (negative or positive) - spark should come from the high-tension terminal of the coil. You need to check that first. Hook a plug or coil wire to the coil with a spark plug at the end. Open up the plug gap - or better yet - ruin the plug and break the ground-electrode right off. If you are getting proper spark, it will jump the gap with no electrode. If you DO have spark there - then hook the coil wire to the distributor cap and then check for spark at any one of the spark-plug wires. If NO spark - then you are losing it in the distributing section (rotor and cap).

If in doubt about the points - take the cap off - make sure they are open - and then short them with a knife, screwdriver, or whatever. A spark should jump from the coil-output as long as it's getting power.

Originally, the 1010 came with a 6 volt coil - same as used in the older two-cylinder crawlers. The ignition switch had an ignition resistor and a bypass built into it. Years later - Deere eliminated the resistor in the switch and used a remote ballast resistor instead. The resistor bypass however, was still built into the switch. If you've installed a convention IGN switch - it will not have a bypass. If you 1010 has the Delco starter and NOT the Prestolite - you can run a wire from the "R" terminal on the starter-solenoid directly to the power-terminal of the ignition coil. This will give you an automatic bypass evertime the starter cranks.

Original gas 1010 was hooked with a 12 volt battery to postive ground. Wire from the points hooks to the positive terminal of the coil. Neg of the coil gets power. Coil is a 6 volt unit and gets full power from the battery when cranking via a bypass in the switch. Full battery power when cranking is usually 9 to 10 volts.

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1010c won`t fire

1010c won`t fire

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