Reviving the 440 - Oil line routing

[Toivo1037]

The long saga of the troubled reverser is nearing an end. Yesterday I was able to secure help in getting the heavy pieces into place, and even after wrestling with getting the reverser to seat for over 2 hours, the dozer is now 98% back together. No parts available on a Sunday around here, and apparently 2 pins decided to walk off over the last year. I order my filters and will pick up some pins, and should have her completely back to work next weekend.

2 questions for ya,
#1 can someone please take a look at their dozer and help me with the line routing for the oil filter. I am not sure which side of the oil filter they go to. The filter canister is mounted horizontally on a guard over the throttle linkage, just in front of the fuel tank on the left side of the tractor. One line goes into the center of the canister, the other into the side. The oil lines come out of the engine block with one in the left rear corner, and the other is a bit in front of that. Both of my lines will reach either connection, so I’m not sure which goes where, if it matters. My service manual is not clear on the subject.

#2 for those familiar with my saga, the tractor has been basically sitting for 2 years. I am changing all of the filters and fluids while she is in the shop, is there anything else that I should look at or do before bringing her back to life?

Thanks guys,
-Neil

[JD440ICD2006]

Neil, I would make sure it has good oil pressure BEFORE adding fuel and/or fire. Is it 2-53 diesel or the JD gas engine?
Cranking it over without allowing it to start for a while with good oil pressure will insure that everything gets oiled well before adding loads to the internal parts. If low or no oil pressure, do not allow it to start or you could be in for an engine rebuild.

[Toivo1037]

Not exactly sure, I can check it out. But I know it is the 2cy GM diesel.

[JD440ICD2006]

If it is the 2 cyl diesel, it is the GM 2-53.
I have mine apart right now for an engine rebuild, otherwise I would be happy to help you.

[shinnery]

I went out and looked at my two 440ICDs and one has the line going to the filter side on the out side. This one I was able to trace back to somewhere under the governor. Looking at both crawlers I decided the line coming out near the oil pressure sender/ gauge line must be the pressure line to the filter (WRONG as I read in the manual later!). Do you want it to put dirty oil into the center of the filter (tap at bottom) or to put the dirty oil around the outside of the filter (tap on side of filter housing) and the clean oil leave by the center of the filter? I need to study my plumbing some more.
I still don't know why my 59 has electric gauges and my 60 has mechanical gauges.
I just got a bright idea and looked thru manual SM-2028 for the 2-53 engine and on page 20-20-2 Fig 20-20-2 Air Box Drain Tube you can see the oil line running from the oil sender area to what has to be the center oil fitting on the filter housing. Then Group 15 on page 110-15-1 restates that they want the oil from the engine into the fitting on the side of the filter housing and the return from the center. So from that I guess the oil gauge is actually reading the pressure out of the filter as it goes back into the engine.
Bryce

[Toivo1037]

Talked to my uncle a mechanic, and he said the you want the dirty oil to go to the outside of the filter. He reasons that they used to cut a filter apart to see what metal was in there to help see what was wrong with an engine. So if Bryce is correct, and the front is the return line, that must get routed to the center of the filter.

Got all of my filters today, they had to order enough 80 weight for the trans. I should be all set to get her otta-da-barn on Sat.

BTW, book specs 20 weight for the motor, but everybody that I know runs 15-40 in their diesels. That 20 feels quite thin to me. I am a bit torn on the issue, but leaning 15-40 as this dozer is not used in the winter at all.

[CELSESSER]

Neil,
this is out of SM-2028 GM-2-53 service manual

COLD WEATHER OPERATION
The proper lubricating oil viscosity grade
when operating at normal temperature is
SAE 30 . When prolonged exposure of the engine
to temperatures below freezing is unavoidable,
it is permissible to use the following
lighter grades of oil in order to facilitate
starting .
Ambient Temperature +30° to 0°F
Viscosity Grade SAE 20W
0° to -20°F
SAE lOW
Multiple viscosity oils such as 5W-20 or
10W-30 should not be used . A "break-in" oil
is not recommended for this engine . Series
3 oils are recommended for use when continuous
light or intermittent loads with long
standby periods of idle operation exist at low
ambient temperatures .

20 weight sounded thin to me also. Hope this helps and glad to hear that you are close to getting it together. Remember to post some pictured of your custom carrier work if you have them!

Chuck

[tuney443]

I remember from years ago after having my 6-53 Detroit rebuilt,the rebuilder implored into me that all 2 stroke Jimmy Diesels need the 3104 B{now it's probably C or D} military spec series 3 oil only,straight weight only,not multi-viscosity.I believe he said something about needing an extremely low ash oil to deal with some pecululiarities of the Detroit. I've been running this in 40 wt. in my 440,at least for now in the hot months.

[JD440ICD2006]

What specific product are you running so that I can look for it in stores?

[shinnery]

There were several threads about oil about a year or more ago. I wound up using a Delo 40W when I changed the oil in my 59, haven't done anything to the 60 yet, but it will get the same. It does get nice and warm down here so I believe 40W in a tired "jimmy" is appropriate. My two 440ICD/831s are 449895 and 460196.
Bryce

[Lavoy]

Yes, the Jimmy's are quite oil specific, talk to a local oil jobber, or go to a Detroit Diesel dealer. Back when these engine came out, there were not as many oils available, so not a big deal. With all the oils out there now, you need to be more specific. We ran an 82-40 Terex with an 8-71N Detroit, and always had one barrel of oil that was only used in it. Local gravel hauler cooked a 6V-92T one time, found out later, he was running the wrong oil.
Lavoy

[Toivo1037]

Well, thought I would report back with the correct plumbing. The rear connect on the engine block is the pressure, and the front, next to the oil sending unit, or oil pressure line in my case is the return. The feed into the oil filter housing is in the side, the return in the bottom. So, if your filter can is mounted horizontal like mine is, then the rear block connect, goes to the rear canister connect, and the front, to front. Nice how that works huh? Only pumped 1/2 gal of oil on the ground to find out too!

[H-D]

I routinely 'purge' the oil in the system into a catch receptacle 'til it flows clean when changing oil, but I've been accused of being anal retentive too!

[Toivo1037]

Well, that 1/2 gal was not all on purpose! However, I changed the rest of the fluid in the tractor on Sun. and found the the darn trans fluid was much more milky then I would have hoped. I wrapped rag around the air line and held it in the fill hole. It helped push a ton of the extra bad oil out. I took about 2 hours to let it settle, then blow more out. It worked fine.

BTW, I did fire the tractor up. except for the dead battery, it fired right up and ran like a champ. I could not run it for long because I broke the darn plastic oil guage line, and it was pumping even more oil on the floor! Next weekend, I get the oil line fixed, and replace a couple of greese buttons, and she get pulled out of the shop! (assuming that my reverser repair worked properly!)