440IC getting way too hot!

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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lizrad999
430 crawler
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440IC getting way too hot!

Post by lizrad999 » Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:55 pm

Hi all, I was able to take my 440IC out for her maiden voyage after being rebuilt. I ran into a couple of issues though and thought I'd better ask the experts.
First problem is the engine temp. As I ran the machine it steadily got hotter and hotter until it was reading about 240 degrees. Everything under the hood was extremely hot including the gas tank. In fact, I noticed gas dripping from the tank when I returned from one of my breaks. After following the leak, I found it was coming from somewhere up top. (Hood was in the way) I happened to unscrew the gas cap and whoosh! a geyser of gasoline blew up from the tank. Apparently, the gas in the tank was boiling! I quietly stepped away for the machine to let her cool off. Next day, I removed the hood before running her. She still got up to 200, but the tank stayed nice and cool.
I suppose the radiator could be blocked inside, but most of the heat seemed to come from the manifold. I checked it with a tempurature guage and it read 600 degrees at the hottest point. I'd like to put the hood back on, but I'm afraid of it over heating again. Any advice?

Second issue, speaking of heat......after running the machine for about 30minutes, I noticed that all of the hydraulics (hoses, cylinders, resevior,etc) get hotter than hell. Bad enough to give you a burn. I suspect I might have messed up the plumbing for the fluid return from the valve. The valve is a Gresen 2711 single spool. When I got the machine it was obvious someone had been monkeying with the plumbing, so I refered to the books for the proper configuration. The 2711 houseing has two potential outputs, one that points to the right of the machine, and one that points straight down (if the valve is mounted on the dozer). When I got it, both ports from the valve went to the resevoir. The parts manual and the service manual have indicated that the one pointing down should have a plug in it, and the one pointing right is the return line or output. Have I screwed something up? Anybody ou tthere with a 440 single spool valve that could send me a photo?

Final issue. While working in an area of heavily eroded clay, the right track had a tendancy to flex on the sprocket enough that the sprocket rode right up over the side of the chain and came off. After I got it back on, it tried to happen again but I caught it and was able to back up to fix it. I'm pretty sure my pins and bushings are shot. Whats it cost to get it re bushed and pinned?

I know, I talk too much....but I'm trying to give all of the info I can so i can get the best out of the info I get back.

Thanks for your help!

Also, you can check out my videos on Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/lizrad999

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Eric.MacLeod
440 crawler
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Post by Eric.MacLeod » Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:16 pm

not sure what was done on rebuild? the over heating could be caused from valves being to tight, the timing being out of adjustment, or the carb running way to lean, not to sure if fan can be put on backwards but ive seen people do it on cars before...i ran a massey ferguson tractor that would boil the fuel in the tank, it did that for years, than one day it blowed the gas cap off, nice woods fire!!.. good luck, Eric

lizrad999
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Post by lizrad999 » Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:36 pm

Valves were gapped to specs and timing was set with a timing light.
Lean carb could definitely be an issue....how do you know if it's running lean?

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JD440ICD2006
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Post by JD440ICD2006 » Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:42 pm

When setting this type of carb, get the engine to operating temp, turn the LOAD needle until it gets rich enough to skip, then turn it back towards lean, but not all the way lean.
It is a fine balance between lean enough to not waste gas, but rich enough to not run so hot. Best to be a little on the rich side in my opinion.
This could be the issue, and may not be the only issue.
Radiator stopped up, water pump not pumping, etc.
Did you set the high RPM so that it does not over speed when wide open throttle?
How is the oil pressure?
1959 JD 440ICD w/64 Power Angle Tilt Blade
1959 JD 440ICD w/63 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 440IC w/602 Manual Angle Blade
1959 JD 730D W SE (many options)
1950 JD M S w/M-20 Mower
1952 JD M W
1955 FORD 640 (burns the most fuel)

lizrad999
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Post by lizrad999 » Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:33 am

The load needle being the one on the bottom of the bowl, I assume I unscrew it to go rich, and screw it in to go lean? I will adjust this in a little while and report back.

The radiator could be stopped up, or the water pump may not be pumping, but with the hood off the issue all but goes away which make me lean away from those two items.

"Did you set the high RPM so that it does not over speed when wide open throttle?"
I did not make any adjustments to the govenor, buit I also have made sure I did not run it too fast.

"How is the oil pressure?"
Oil pressure is steady at about 40 PSI.

There is one other item I did not mention before. I am missing the heat shield that mounts on the manifold. I think that might be contributing to the slightly high engine temp reading with the hood off, but I really doubt it would remedy the extremely high tempurature under the hood when the hood is installed.

Anyone with any thoughts on the hydraulic tempurature being so hot?

lherseth
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Post by lherseth » Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:40 pm

Heres a way to check your engine temp. first start it up and let it idle. Take off the radiator cap and when it warms up you should be able to see the prestone circulating in the radiator. if it isnt moving maybe your T stat is stuck shut. or your water pump isnt pumping. if its idling and the prestone is moving around then it should be running at T stat temp. Stick a deep fry or candy thermomiter in the radiator and see what the temp is, maybe your gauge is wrong. the manifold is a lot hotter than the prestone so thats not really cgoing to tell you engine temp. you should not build up pressure in your tank like that if you vent tube is open. the gas does get warm sitting behind the engine but the pressure should not build up like that unless the vents plugged.

lizrad999
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Post by lizrad999 » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:44 am

Update!
Ok, I found out why the hydraulics were getting so hot, the plug in the right side of the valve is the wrong one.......
It was blocking the flow of fluid from the input to the output because it was too long. The fluid was being pushed through the relief valve continuously!
I cut it down to size on the mill, and reinstalled it.
No more heat problems with the hydraulics!

I also picked up the SM-2024 and tuned the Carb to what the manual said it should be. Have not put the hood back on yet to test. Will let you know!

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