Not sure what to do now since with that bolt in there, can not remove the final drive, even if I figure out how to get the other 3 bolts off.
This machine may have just become a parts machine.
440 Left Final Drive
440 Left Final Drive
Well I think I have hit a problem I can not deal with. Right final drive is off. Trying to remove the left drive. The 4 bolts (1 1/8" socket) that attach the rear cross bar support to the final drive are stuck. Tried a 3/4" impact gun, no luck. Heated it up, no luck, I then went to the old pipe extension on a breaker bar and actually sheared off one the bolts. Thought it was starting to come out but instead, broke the bolt.
Not sure what to do now since with that bolt in there, can not remove the final drive, even if I figure out how to get the other 3 bolts off.
This machine may have just become a parts machine.
Not sure what to do now since with that bolt in there, can not remove the final drive, even if I figure out how to get the other 3 bolts off.
This machine may have just become a parts machine.
You're not done yet.
First of all, when you remove both finals on a 440 at the same time, you need to support the rest of the drive train. Depending on which is heavier, the front or back, that end will fall down, as the final drives being bolted to the rear crossbar supports the whole butt of the machine.
Now, you already have one broken off, so break or torch the other 3 off. Take all of the bolt out of the rest of the final and you will be able to rotate the final slightly and get some clearance between the front of the final and the crossbar bracket. If the final will rotate completely, just remove it like the other side. If it will not, at least get the final rotated enough so that you can get in between the final and clamp and torch what is left of the bolts off. It is a lot easier to deal with broken bolts with the final drive off, then still on the crawler.
If it does not come apart, you are correct in that it is a parts crawler, so if you are looking at it from that standpoint, you have nothing to lose by trying what I described.
Lavoy
First of all, when you remove both finals on a 440 at the same time, you need to support the rest of the drive train. Depending on which is heavier, the front or back, that end will fall down, as the final drives being bolted to the rear crossbar supports the whole butt of the machine.
Now, you already have one broken off, so break or torch the other 3 off. Take all of the bolt out of the rest of the final and you will be able to rotate the final slightly and get some clearance between the front of the final and the crossbar bracket. If the final will rotate completely, just remove it like the other side. If it will not, at least get the final rotated enough so that you can get in between the final and clamp and torch what is left of the bolts off. It is a lot easier to deal with broken bolts with the final drive off, then still on the crawler.
If it does not come apart, you are correct in that it is a parts crawler, so if you are looking at it from that standpoint, you have nothing to lose by trying what I described.
Lavoy
440 Left Final Drive
Lavoy:
Thanks for the information. Will the rear fall down on a loader crawler when the left final is removed? I have the rear cross bar on jack stands but will add more support in the middle. The clutch housings seem to be attached to some brackets that attach to the footrests. Looks like these may support the middle???
Here is what I am trying on the remaining 3 bolts. I have drilled 1/8" holes to each of the 3 bolts at the joint between the final drive case and the cross bar bracket. I am now applying PB Blaster (penetrating oil) into the drilled holes. This should get the oil directly to the bolts. These bolts have a larger diameter at the middle so they can act as alignment pins. This is where the drilled holes should be intersecting the bolts. My guess is they are stuck at the wide portion of the bolt. If not, the oil should also get to the threads. I am going to give the oil about a week and will then get a larger impact gun and heat up the cases around the bolts. They will either come out, or break off. I think if more bolts break off, then the final drive will not come off. I may drill some additional holes to access the tread portion of the bolts so I can get penetrating oil on the threads also.
If they do break off, I do not see how to clear the two alignment pins on the clutch housings and also work around the broken bolts. If I can get the remaining 3 bolts out, I am thinking that I may be able to use a hand held bandsaw (portaband) and cut down between the final case and the cross bar bracket to cut though the one broken bolt. Actually, this may work for all 4 bolts if I can fit the saw in. Right now, the top outside bolt is broken, which is accessible. If this does not work, then not too sure how to get this out of the garage. I guess I will have to piece it out.
Thanks for the information. Will the rear fall down on a loader crawler when the left final is removed? I have the rear cross bar on jack stands but will add more support in the middle. The clutch housings seem to be attached to some brackets that attach to the footrests. Looks like these may support the middle???
Here is what I am trying on the remaining 3 bolts. I have drilled 1/8" holes to each of the 3 bolts at the joint between the final drive case and the cross bar bracket. I am now applying PB Blaster (penetrating oil) into the drilled holes. This should get the oil directly to the bolts. These bolts have a larger diameter at the middle so they can act as alignment pins. This is where the drilled holes should be intersecting the bolts. My guess is they are stuck at the wide portion of the bolt. If not, the oil should also get to the threads. I am going to give the oil about a week and will then get a larger impact gun and heat up the cases around the bolts. They will either come out, or break off. I think if more bolts break off, then the final drive will not come off. I may drill some additional holes to access the tread portion of the bolts so I can get penetrating oil on the threads also.
If they do break off, I do not see how to clear the two alignment pins on the clutch housings and also work around the broken bolts. If I can get the remaining 3 bolts out, I am thinking that I may be able to use a hand held bandsaw (portaband) and cut down between the final case and the cross bar bracket to cut though the one broken bolt. Actually, this may work for all 4 bolts if I can fit the saw in. Right now, the top outside bolt is broken, which is accessible. If this does not work, then not too sure how to get this out of the garage. I guess I will have to piece it out.
Actually, sometimes the transmission will come up, not fall down, if the engine is heavier than the back end. Just watch out as you work on it, you will be able to tell what is going to happedn.
I know what you mean about the alignment dowels, but with the other final off, you may be able to pry the case away from the track clutch housing enough to clear them, or blow them with a torch.
Lavoy
I know what you mean about the alignment dowels, but with the other final off, you may be able to pry the case away from the track clutch housing enough to clear them, or blow them with a torch.
Lavoy
left Final
Lavoy:
Thanks for letting me know about that. I would not have expected that to happen. Got two of the bolts outs. Oil got in pretty good. Rusted badly right where I expected, at the wide center section. Seems the pilot/oiler hole concept works. Last one is the top inside bolt. Still stuck. I will give it some time and keep the penetrating oil flowing. These things are really stuck.
If I can get the last bolt out, there may be a chance and wiggle this thing apart, especially if the center section can be moved off the two alignment pins.
Thanks for letting me know about that. I would not have expected that to happen. Got two of the bolts outs. Oil got in pretty good. Rusted badly right where I expected, at the wide center section. Seems the pilot/oiler hole concept works. Last one is the top inside bolt. Still stuck. I will give it some time and keep the penetrating oil flowing. These things are really stuck.
If I can get the last bolt out, there may be a chance and wiggle this thing apart, especially if the center section can be moved off the two alignment pins.
Well, I have finally re-installed the first final drive back on the crawler. As discussed in this old posting, I moved he left final over to the right side. Installation was fairly simply. However, my favorate bolts between the cross bar brackets and the final drive do not line up. Since both finals were off, everything moved. Any tricks to get these to align, or just keep tapping and wiggling?
If you have both finals off at the same time, there is not support holding up the back half of the crawler. You will need to put a hydraulic jack under something so you can move up and down. Sideways you will have to pry somehow with a bar until you get at least one bolt in, then it will go easier.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Finally got the bolts in. Used a jack in the front under the grill and one in the back, under the transmission. This allowed for up/down adjustments. Then used LARGE C-clamps between the cross bar brackets and center section to adjust left and right. A little turn here and there and everything aligned up. So right final is completly installed. Starting to rebuild the other final drive. Still waiting for the axle from machine shop. Had to drop off the new main bearing so they could machine the axle to the exact diameter for a light press fit. Showed the machinist how everything went together and he knew exactly what was required. Should be done this coming week.
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