420 track adjustment

MarkP · Post by **MarkP** » Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:07 pm

Does anyone have tips for adjusting the track tension on the inside adjusters? By the time you get a 1 1/2" wrench on the nut there isn't really much if any room to actually turn the wrench. Between the tractor, the blade arms and the track adjuster casting it just seems I must be missing something to make this a bit easier.

Mark

Lowly · Post by **Lowly** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:56 am

Osha would have a fit if they ever saw it, and I've often wondered if there is a more elegant way to do it, but I use a front end loader to pick up the front of my 420C so I can easily get at the inside adjusters. It does beat being under there with no room to work!

Lowly

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:41 pm

Hi: In advance of throwing a track (which I figure is bound to happen on the old girl, I ran my machine up onto a pair or 8"x 8" x 8' cants to get room to work (a pair of similarly sized pieces of fire wood near the first rolls and idler works as an alternative). I searched yard sales and junk (I mean recycled) places looking for some 1 1/2 " wrenches which I thought might be helpful. I found a couple of combination wrenches of different quality - read thicknesses, and shapes. I had a monkey wrench and some pipe wrenches and ~18" pieces of 1 1/2" and 2" pipe which I use to extend the handles as appropriate. I wire brushed the threads and rotated the whole thread assembly with the pipe wrench - choose a place where bunging the treads won't matter, so that I could get them as clean as possible. A diesel oil bath and heat got the nuts working. Corn head grease worked into the threads made things move easier. The short swing of the wrench I countered by turning the whole bolt assembly rather than the nut until things loosened up. I double-nutted the exposed end of the adjuster and used a 3/4" drive socket to get some movement too. I also cut one of the wrenches in half so that I could slide the pipe handles onto it - this changed the angles enough so that I could get leverage and reposition the wrench for subsequent movement.

I used some heat on the nuts at the start of the project too, but found it wasn't really needed. I believe that the threads are made of a corrosion resistant material, so getting the dirt and crud out of them gave enough clearance so that the grease and oil could do its job.
I worked the nuts to the point where they could be spun by hand. I then cleaned every thing up with diesel and repacked the threads with moly grease and set the track tensions as described in the manual. I now have track adjusters that should be relatively easy to use when needed.

I hope this helps - I bought the wrenches for about $5.00 each (two). You can buy decent 1 1/2" wrenches at Tractor Supply for about $10.00 each.

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:54 pm

If your blade arms are on the inside of the tracks it is four pins to pull and then back away from the blade and frame adjust your tracks and once you are sure of your adjustment put the blade back on . JMTC Dan

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:07 am

It depends on the blade, if you have a 61, yes it will be a pain, if you havea 62, just run the blade all the way up.
Lavoy

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:24 am

I think I used a crowfoot and long extension to turn the inside nuts for adjustment, then a regular combination wrench when I was ready to tighten the double nuts.

bulldozerman · Post by **bulldozerman** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:39 pm

well, im 17, so i just crawl under there, mind you cursing all the way, and just turn the nut the 1/8 of a turn, i pick my blade all the way up which gives me a little more room.

jclem40c · Post by **jclem40c** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 10:07 pm

bulldozerman,
where in Liberty are you? I'm in Liberty also, give me a location. I'm at Clements Road. Where you be?
John

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 10:13 pm

Years ago, I found a 1 1/2" double open end wrench at a local bearing supply house. One end is canted about like a standard open end/box end. The other end is canted at quite a bit steeper angle, like the offset end wrenches that you see in Harbor Freight and such. The difference is this was a fairly short, quite lightweight wrench. I have found it to be the greatest thing since sliced bread on 420/430 track adjusters. I think the brand was "Martin". It is a quality wrench, I think I paid $40 give or take, best money I ever spent.
I also have a factory track wrench, it is quite a bit stronger than the open end, usually use it to break them loose. I think they are outrageous in price now, have not checked lately. I have plans to try and get them made, along with a hundred other items.
Lavoy

lizrad999 · Post by **lizrad999** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:36 pm

I found these adjustable wrenches at an estate sale, and they work pretty good. The handles are even made to take a cheater bar.
They are made by Diamond Calk and Horseshoe Co.
Good luck!

bulldozerman · Post by **bulldozerman** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:51 pm

jclem40c,
I live on castille hill road, not too far from you

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