MC wont move

Denis in MI · Post by **Denis in MI** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:41 pm

This is my first time posting here. I have a problem with my MC that has been parked for about a year. When I put it in gear and release the foot clutch the right track starts to move but stops and the left is frozen to the ground and dosent even try to move. I can release the foot clutch all the way and the engine only luggs it will not stall even though it cannot move. Pulling the left steer lever has no effect what so ever and pulling the right only removes the load from the engine. Every thing operated fine when I parked it. I am really not familiar with john deere crawlers I am assuming that it does not use a differential like my cletrac. Any help in this matter is greatly appreciated as I need this tractor for cutting fire wood. It was parked outside like it has been for the last three year and never had a problem until now. also the brake pedal was froze in place but it is probably unrelated. and the temp was about 15 above 0. Thanks again, Denis

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 6:59 am

Dennis,
It sounds like #1 your main engine clutch is worn or out of adjustment and is slipping. #2 your left steering clutch may have stripped the "teeth" off the fiber disks(possibly from the track being frozen to the ground trying to free it) or have oil on them from leaking seals or are worn out and #3 your right steering clutch is slipping due to wear or missadjustment.
I always park mine on planks to keep it from freezing to the ground.

No diff in these, all differentiation is by the steering clutches. Sounds like you will have to get into the left clutch. Check adjustment first but I fear the fiber disks are damaged, oil soaked or worn out.

Chuck

Denis in MI · Post by **Denis in MI** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:00 am

I am completely unaware of how to adjust or repair anything after the trans on these. Where and what am I looking for to check for misadjustment or wear. The left steer lever is also harder to move and I cant pull it back all the way.

Thanks, Denis

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:19 am

The first time I had to go into my MC to repair the wheel clutches, I also did not have a clue, but I learned fast. I would highly suggest that you get a shop manual. It will have all of the info you need to do the repairs and adjustments.

Having a track frozen to the ground is going to be your first problem. I do not have that kind of problem here in Oregon, maybe some of the other guys can help you with that. To get the final drive off, the track has to be removed or at least split apart at the master link.

Good Luck!!

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:19 am

If you do not already have them I would suggest a parts and service manual, they are a great help.
Do you have any free play in the main clutch?
Lavoy

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:28 am

You just need to thaw the earth around the track that is frozen to the ground- you could heat the ground with coals froma fire, one of those propane heaters or torches, or put up a tent around it and heat the inside of it. Worse case, the ground will thaw sometime

In the future, you may want to park the crawler on boards or tires instead of the ground to avoid that problem.

Denis in MI · Post by **Denis in MI** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:23 am

The engine clutch is adjusted properly. It is supposed to get up to around freezing in the next couple days if I should get it to move what do I need to check in the way of adjustments and how it operates to properly diagnose the problem and where can I buy a service manual I have all the original owners manuals for the crawler and the blade that were given to me when I bought the tractor from the original owners estate.

Any replys are appreciated
Thanks, Denis

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:32 am

I got my MC service manual on eBay.

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:51 am

When you get the track unfrozen from the ground, the crawler MAY move., if the engine clutch is not worn too much It really sounds like there is problems in the left clutch tho. The right side may also be slipping.

When you pull on the handle the first thinkg that happens is the throw out bearing is pressed against the fingers on the wheel clutch, releasing trhe spring presssure on the clutch plates allowing slippage. Pull more on lever will engage the brake band, locking that side.

If the crawler will move, it will problally stop when you pull the right handle. That will tell you that the left side is slipping or the teeth are gone.

If you can roll the crawler, by pulling, but it will still not move under its own power, then for starters the main clutch is bad.

good luck!

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:18 pm

Dennis, Check your owners manual, My 440 Operators manual has the procedure in it.
It is hard to describe without having the pictures to refer to. Essentially you are setting the throwout bearing contact in relation to Steering lever position and then synchronizing the brake band to engage just as the clutch is releasing.
From the sounds of the left steering lever not pulling back, the throwout beering carrier or clutch pressure plate may be rusted up. Don't put oil in there! Take the small rectangular stamped metal inspection plate on top of the clutch housing off anf use a flashlight to see what condition things appear to be in (RUST, OIL, MOUSE NEST etc.)

The service, operators and Parts manuals are invaluable when working on these things. EBAY, Mother Deere, board members may have them.

Chuck

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:03 pm

I have manuals on hand.
Lavoy

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 4:05 pm

You just need to thaw the earth around the track that is frozen to the ground- you could heat the ground with coals from a fire,

one of those propane heaters or torches, or put up a tent around it and heat the inside of it. Worse case, the ground will thaw sometime.

I'd recommend hot water, or a propane heater and covering to trap heat rather than open fire or flames. Grease and rubber seals don't like fire.
Heat the ground and pads while using your bucket or blade to exert appropriate down pressure on a big block of wood (you don't want to break anything). Thaw a bit at a time putting small blocks under the track as it releases from the ground. Some times a crow bar can get into the thawing dirt and pry enough pads free to get unstuck. Your clutch issue makes your task harder since you can't use the normal tractive force to break free. Paul

Mark Birdeau · Post by **Mark Birdeau** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:21 pm

Dennis you said that the brake was frozen if thats the case that could be the biggest part of the problem. I haven't worked on an MC for over 35 years but I think its the same as my 40, in which case the brake and clutch pedals are on the same shaft. If the brake is froze then it may not be letting the clutch fully engage. With only the right side trying to pull there may be other issues with the left side as others have said. The first things I would do is get the brake unstuck and the left track loose then see what you have. I have had good luck braking tracks loose from the ground by just hammering on the pads, unless they are in ice or sunk down to far. Mark:

snoopy · Post by **snoopy** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 5:30 pm

if the brake is frozen in the down or applied position, that would not be good. Mine has been married with he clutch pedal for 15 years, kinka of handly at times.

Denis in MI · Post by **Denis in MI** » Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:18 pm

The brake pedal is in the released position I plan to try and free the track tomorrow but may not have time and the temp is only suposed to get to 5 above for thursday and friday but up to 20 on saturday. I really want to get it fixed for pulling out trees for fire wood as my cletrac is down in need of a radiator and wheel tractors just won't pull in the snow.

Thank you for all the replies and I hope to get more when I have more info to tell.

Thanks, Denis

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