New 440IC Reverser Shaft

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mgbuddydad
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New 440IC Reverser Shaft

Post by mgbuddydad » Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:31 pm

I just Disassembled the reverser from recent purchase 440IC, has forward clutch tabs sheared off. Considering replacing reverser with the JD coupling used on the non-reverser setup-- lose the reverser for simplicity and durability.

Can I simply install the coupling on the original shafts, or must the shaft(s) be replaced ? (I have been told the input shaft may be a different length, but the length of the coupling is within 1/2 inch of the length of the differential, so do not understand why the shaft would need to be longer to be used with a coupling)

Anyone else made this swap, any other suggestions or hints ? How is the coupling retained on the shaft ? Does it simply float between the two shafts ?

Thanks !

Buddyi
1959 440 IC

JimAnderson
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Reverser shaft

Post by JimAnderson » Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:40 am

Buddyi,
I have got an original input shaft that someone used as you plan.
Wear on it shows that only about 3/4" was engaged in the coupling.
It seems to me that you risk damaging the coupling or shaft if
you really work the machine.I'm in the process now of rebuilding
two reversers and the parts are insanely expensive.One differential
pin that is 2 1/4" by 5/8" is $91.00 from Deere and each reverser takes
two. The correct input shaft you need should not be that hard to get.
Lavoy may even have one.JimAnderson

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:25 am

I am out of them for a while, but they are around. As Jim said, using the reverser input shaft is not a good option.
Lavoy

Randynscottsboro
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Post by Randynscottsboro » Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:09 am

What about lengthening the shaft? I broke the PTO shaft on my BF Moline and was having trouble finding one, so I took the broken pieces, put in lathe and turned the broken ends round (casted or forged part with rough outside) made a sleeve with a .002 press fit with about 1 1/2" of each end inside of the sleeve. For assembly, I heated the sleeve and tapped the shaft ends into it, then tig welded the shaft to the sleeve. I have done much bush-hogging after the repair without any failures. Looks to me a same type repair could be made here!!!
Randy
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:07 pm

Yes, that would work as long as their is no wobble at all, and it is balanced for 1850 RPM.
Lavoy

mgbuddydad
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440IC Reverser Shaft

Post by mgbuddydad » Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:37 pm

Thanks for all suggestions.

First, what is normal cost for used input shaft, and any leads on where to search for one ?

Second, have a coupling, was considering sawing in two and extending by weldiing sleeve outside. I agree 3/4 inch is too llittle engagement. And hear Lavoy about balance, although a decent machining job seems much more likely to be balanced than the mass of the original differential.

I see a spring in the parts list, to go between the shafts: How much gap should be between the shafts, and what is the purpose of the spring ?

Am I making a bad decision to not rebuild the reverser (needs 5 clutch discs, and has one screw on a block sheared off in tapped hole) ? It just seems that losing the reverser would eliminate one potential future problem area. And, if you have to use the clutch to use reverser, may as well shift gears.

The reverser seems of little value, and high risk, am I missing something ?

Buddy
1959 440 IC

JimAnderson
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reverser shaft

Post by JimAnderson » Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:31 am

Buddy,
You really don"t need a reverser.From what I've seen ,large
numbers of these were bypassed.I have a 440 loader that had its
reverser gutted.I know because the shifter mechanism is still on
the case.My guess is that if you pull the differential unit apart you
will find even more damage.You are looking at several hundred
dollars for the clutches .With all the needle bearings inside these
things those clutch bits wreak havoc.
Gap tractors in Texas can probably get you a shaft.Part number
is T10383T.Gap has a web site and I've had good luck with them.
JimAnderson

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Mark Birdeau
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Post by Mark Birdeau » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:01 pm

Buddy, yes it is expensive to repair a reverser but let me inject one thing here. I would say it depends what kind of work you plan to do with the crawler. I have a 440 with and a 40 without and I sure hate bulldozing with the 40. The big thing is if you do any long pushes it takes for ever to back up in reverse with the 40, but with the 440 I can stick it in 4th and pull the reverser back and be back for the next push a lot faster. Not that I'm ever in a big hurry, but I also hate to waste time. Just something to think about. Mark:

mgbuddydad
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Post by mgbuddydad » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:01 pm

Thanks Jim and Ralph.

Jim, you are fairly close, it would be great to see your crawler somtime, or come see ours. Checking Gap
'
Ralph, is there a number I can reach you to discuss ? Or, call me at 540 248 5816 evenings.

Really appreciate all the help.

Buddy
1959 440 IC

mgbuddydad
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Post by mgbuddydad » Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:30 pm

Mark, that puts the reverser in perspective. Having never used a crawler, some things don't hit you--like backing up rather than turning around. I guess turning won't be the first choice.

On the other hand, I may be more patient in reverse when I recall how tight some of the bolts were getting the engine and reverser out, with zero room to work. (almost as bad as the top bellhousing bolt on an '83 bmw 528, but that's another story)

The bottom line: staring at the guts of this reverser, as pretty as it is, makes me scared to really use it.

While not a good reason, my budget for tractor repairs is beginning to come under scrutiny ("how much does it cost to fix up a crawler that runs good")

There is some fear of the unknown, if I simply put in the shaft and coupling. JD dealer claims there are lots of other parts that need to change. Whatever direction I go, I don't want to tear this down again soon.

Thanks for the advice, this is a great forum.

Buddy
1959 440 IC

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