Well, after getting the sprockets off I noticed a little more wear than I thought there was. They're not supper bad but I was wondering if there were any tricks to adding a little more meat. Seems there is more missing from the rear of the tooth and Id like to get these as even as possible.
The rails are in very good shape with little wear. I was told the track is off a 350 and not in bad shape at all. Any hints?
welding sprockets
Your sprockets are worn because the bushings on a 350 rail are bigger, so they do not seat correctly in the sprockets. Consequently they try to wear the sprocket to fit, and to do this, they have to open up the size of the tooth on the sprocket. If you weld them back shut, it will just happen again, and you will increase the wear on the bushings.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Small Time,
I'm in the process of changing my 420 tracks to 350 tracks. I found a set of relatively good 350 sprockets, and built an adapter from some 7/8 plate. I was able to drill both sets of bolt holes, and fit everthing together. I did have to trim a part of one set of bolt heads, but one side is together, and appears to fit well. The 350 sprockets were less deep than the 420s. The adapter brought them back to the original width.
I haven't run them, so they don't yet have a "track" record, but all looks good.
My whole project sort of went on hold while I build a hydraulic press with which to remove the upper roller shafts. I should have that finished in a couple of days. It's painted JD green, of course.
Perhaps I should mention that I cut the 350 pads to 10 inch widths. I was able to do it with a liquid cooled power hacksaw. They cut fairly easily, but it's a lot of steel to whittle through, and it took a few days.
Gary
I'm in the process of changing my 420 tracks to 350 tracks. I found a set of relatively good 350 sprockets, and built an adapter from some 7/8 plate. I was able to drill both sets of bolt holes, and fit everthing together. I did have to trim a part of one set of bolt heads, but one side is together, and appears to fit well. The 350 sprockets were less deep than the 420s. The adapter brought them back to the original width.
I haven't run them, so they don't yet have a "track" record, but all looks good.
My whole project sort of went on hold while I build a hydraulic press with which to remove the upper roller shafts. I should have that finished in a couple of days. It's painted JD green, of course.
Perhaps I should mention that I cut the 350 pads to 10 inch widths. I was able to do it with a liquid cooled power hacksaw. They cut fairly easily, but it's a lot of steel to whittle through, and it took a few days.
Gary
Wow, thats alot of cutting. Pretty hard on blades Id guess. Anyway, Im waiting to find out how much the Berco rings are before I start welding.
I like your idea, if I find some sprockets I may try that. Did you weld the adapter plate to the back of the sprocket? Im guessing it is mainly a spacer to push the sprocket out to the rail right?
Im not sure if the diameter of the sprockets on the 1010s and 350s are the same, but if they are close I would imagine that it wouldnt be a big deal to cut and weld.
I like your idea, if I find some sprockets I may try that. Did you weld the adapter plate to the back of the sprocket? Im guessing it is mainly a spacer to push the sprocket out to the rail right?
Im not sure if the diameter of the sprockets on the 1010s and 350s are the same, but if they are close I would imagine that it wouldnt be a big deal to cut and weld.
Small Time,
I guess I missed something. I'm bad about that. I thought you were working on a 420/350 thing. I missed the 1010 part. I don't know about the bolt diameter patterns between a 1010 and a 420.
No, I didn't weld them together. I drilled both bolt patterns, bolted the plate to the 420, and the 350 sprocket to the plate. The fact that the space came out correctly was shear luck.
The pads were was a lot of cutting, and I did go buy a better blade than that which came with the saw, but it may not have been necessary. The first blade still has life, and I've used the second blade a lot since. The 7/8" plate was cut with a torch, and then ground to diameter...sort of.
I don't think the pads are as hard as everyone seems to think. I originally tried cutting them with a torch, but it was way too much torch time, and it took a lot of gas...to end up with ragged edges.
While digging in the bone yard, I saw a set of what looked like factory adapter plates for one size to another. It may be that they were only spreaders, or extenders, though, so I can't be sure. I didn't study closely, because they were not what I needed.
My point is, there's more than one way to jerk the hide off a cat...or change the sprockets on a cat, or something.
Gary
I guess I missed something. I'm bad about that. I thought you were working on a 420/350 thing. I missed the 1010 part. I don't know about the bolt diameter patterns between a 1010 and a 420.
No, I didn't weld them together. I drilled both bolt patterns, bolted the plate to the 420, and the 350 sprocket to the plate. The fact that the space came out correctly was shear luck.
The pads were was a lot of cutting, and I did go buy a better blade than that which came with the saw, but it may not have been necessary. The first blade still has life, and I've used the second blade a lot since. The 7/8" plate was cut with a torch, and then ground to diameter...sort of.
I don't think the pads are as hard as everyone seems to think. I originally tried cutting them with a torch, but it was way too much torch time, and it took a lot of gas...to end up with ragged edges.
While digging in the bone yard, I saw a set of what looked like factory adapter plates for one size to another. It may be that they were only spreaders, or extenders, though, so I can't be sure. I didn't study closely, because they were not what I needed.
My point is, there's more than one way to jerk the hide off a cat...or change the sprockets on a cat, or something.
Gary
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