Lavoy,
What kind of primer you spraying these days and what brand?
Bill
Crawler Primer Paint
Crawler Primer Paint
Bill Wattson
I'm still screwing around with the track frames and rollers but it's close. I wanted to see what folks were using for primer these days and I remember Lavoy posting something around an epoxy primer but couldn't find the post.
Good weather finally came to Wisconsin so I should be able to get this deal done soon.
Bill
Good weather finally came to Wisconsin so I should be able to get this deal done soon.
Bill
Bill Wattson
Some of the stuff I had blasted and primed came back in an epoxy primer. I had some trouble with it, the paint I was using did not adhere. It may have been that it needed to be scuffed first, it may have been a problem with the paint itself. On one piece I had wiped it down with reducer before painting, and the paint stuck so hard there, it would not hardly come off with the sandblaster.
On blasted parts, I think really the Deere Buff Primer Sealer is just about as good as anything. I have also used an etching primer from NAPA with good results.
Lavoy
On blasted parts, I think really the Deere Buff Primer Sealer is just about as good as anything. I have also used an etching primer from NAPA with good results.
Lavoy
For the green, I use Deere only, it sprays well, is inexpensive, and can be applied directly if you want, same with ag yellow, it just doesn't cover as well.
For industrial yellow, I used some Martin Senour last go around, and had not end to trouble, plus it was expensive, I will go back to Deere the next time.
The MC that is in the shop is going to get painted at the sandblast shop, I forget what paint they are using, we'll see how it turns out.
Lavoy
For industrial yellow, I used some Martin Senour last go around, and had not end to trouble, plus it was expensive, I will go back to Deere the next time.
The MC that is in the shop is going to get painted at the sandblast shop, I forget what paint they are using, we'll see how it turns out.
Lavoy
Although there are some drawbacks I'll discuss later, I doubt you all will find anything in the world that compares to PPG Industries Epoxy Primers and DCC Concept Acrylic Urethane colors.
This is the primer:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... 7be5b5283a
This is the color:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... b5f079dc33
This stuff sticks to mud. It is the most amazing finish I've ever seen. Gloss, adhesion, durability, ease of application... you will not believe it.
The bill... you will not believe it either: around 300 a gallon, which yields something like, I can't remember, 1.5 or 2 sprayable gallons. I've just bought a gallon each of color and primer to do a dump truck and it comes to $725 with hardners and reducers.
People shake their heads, and I can just see all you guys shaking yours, but stay with me for another paragraph.
My old 1960 Massey Ferguson backhoe - loader needed tires so since the rear wheel rims were such a mess, I bought used tires with the correct rims already on them at a yard in Pennsylvania. I wire brushed them with a big 7,000rpm grinder, cleaned them with lacquer thinner, masked the tires and shot them in a booth with epoxy primer and Concept color. I mixed the primer a little heavy to fill scratches. No one I show them to can believe they aren't factory new. It's been two years out in the weather and they still look absolutely sparkling new. The front wheels (automotive type disc wheels riveted to rims) were deeply pitted with rust. They got the same treatment and the pits show. I didn't want to spend the time to fill and sand them but they too are gorgeous. Now I'm doing the whole tractor over.
The marvelous thing about these two part systems (color - hardner) is their indestructibility and their gloss. You can walk on them; rain cleans them off. You can spill stuff on them and bang them - whether it's metal, plastic, impact bumpers, fiberglass - doesn't matter, use the same mixes. It sticks and it's stunning.
When I mentioned "ease of application" above, I did not mean they are simple to mix. There's a lot involved in any new skill. What I meant was that they spray beautifully and the process is simple... once you are ready. Spray on the primer. Let it set. Spray on the color. Let it set. You're done.
As anyone knows, spraying paint is pretty easy; preparing all your stuff to spray is hard. I've had a standing offer in my area to shoot anything any one of my friends is willing to prep. In 40 years, no one has taken me up on it. Properly preparing anything to paint is a pain.
As Lavoy mentioned above, you can't let epoxies lock up. After 72 hours, I think it is, you have to scuff them off. Another problem is that once shot and dried, you can't shoot another color coat a couple of months later to cover all your fastners.
If you are a patient craftsman who is willing to spend the time to prep properly, you will absolutely be astonished at the simplicity (primer followed by color an hour later and you are DONE) and durability of this stuff. It is amazing.
This is the primer:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... 7be5b5283a
This is the color:
https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCa ... b5f079dc33
This stuff sticks to mud. It is the most amazing finish I've ever seen. Gloss, adhesion, durability, ease of application... you will not believe it.
The bill... you will not believe it either: around 300 a gallon, which yields something like, I can't remember, 1.5 or 2 sprayable gallons. I've just bought a gallon each of color and primer to do a dump truck and it comes to $725 with hardners and reducers.
People shake their heads, and I can just see all you guys shaking yours, but stay with me for another paragraph.
My old 1960 Massey Ferguson backhoe - loader needed tires so since the rear wheel rims were such a mess, I bought used tires with the correct rims already on them at a yard in Pennsylvania. I wire brushed them with a big 7,000rpm grinder, cleaned them with lacquer thinner, masked the tires and shot them in a booth with epoxy primer and Concept color. I mixed the primer a little heavy to fill scratches. No one I show them to can believe they aren't factory new. It's been two years out in the weather and they still look absolutely sparkling new. The front wheels (automotive type disc wheels riveted to rims) were deeply pitted with rust. They got the same treatment and the pits show. I didn't want to spend the time to fill and sand them but they too are gorgeous. Now I'm doing the whole tractor over.
The marvelous thing about these two part systems (color - hardner) is their indestructibility and their gloss. You can walk on them; rain cleans them off. You can spill stuff on them and bang them - whether it's metal, plastic, impact bumpers, fiberglass - doesn't matter, use the same mixes. It sticks and it's stunning.
When I mentioned "ease of application" above, I did not mean they are simple to mix. There's a lot involved in any new skill. What I meant was that they spray beautifully and the process is simple... once you are ready. Spray on the primer. Let it set. Spray on the color. Let it set. You're done.
As anyone knows, spraying paint is pretty easy; preparing all your stuff to spray is hard. I've had a standing offer in my area to shoot anything any one of my friends is willing to prep. In 40 years, no one has taken me up on it. Properly preparing anything to paint is a pain.
As Lavoy mentioned above, you can't let epoxies lock up. After 72 hours, I think it is, you have to scuff them off. Another problem is that once shot and dried, you can't shoot another color coat a couple of months later to cover all your fastners.
If you are a patient craftsman who is willing to spend the time to prep properly, you will absolutely be astonished at the simplicity (primer followed by color an hour later and you are DONE) and durability of this stuff. It is amazing.
2 1010 loaders
1 Massey Ferguson loader backhoe
3 Dodge Power Wagons
1 Wife
3 Kids
1 Massey Ferguson loader backhoe
3 Dodge Power Wagons
1 Wife
3 Kids
All comments above are correct. I didn't mean to try to sell it as chrome plating. If you drop a wrench on it or twist a painted bolt, it'll chip. The only finish that might not is anodizing. I use a complete "diving suit" (air supplied respirator). The only thing that gets any overspray on me is the tips of my boots. Do not kid yourself about any paint fumes or spray; it is all deadly. Absolutely. I quit charcoal masks in 1980. Dupont had come out with Imron and the reps were telling us it was perfectly safe to use a charcoal mask with this stuff that had isocianates (sp?) in the fumes. I made my own air supplied respirator out of copper tubing, an oil-less air compressor and a 3M orchard sprayers helmet. I still use the compressor and cooling lines today. Needless to say, Dupont no longer "recommends" charcoal masks.
2 1010 loaders
1 Massey Ferguson loader backhoe
3 Dodge Power Wagons
1 Wife
3 Kids
1 Massey Ferguson loader backhoe
3 Dodge Power Wagons
1 Wife
3 Kids
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 75 guests