getting started on steering clutches

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
Randy Richards
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getting started on steering clutches

Post by Randy Richards » Sat May 09, 2009 7:50 pm

Since I have to do the left side steering clutches should I do the other side even if it's OK? Or if is isn't broken don't fix it ? It seems that after the cluthes were unstuck it worked fine for several weeks, now there is no power to the left side. This is the first time to tear into this so if you want I'm open to any suggections. I do have a 40 x 60 to work in for however long it takes. Lavon do you have the parts I'll need and the cost ?

Ray III
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Post by Ray III » Sat May 09, 2009 8:09 pm

You can fix each side independently. I spent about $700 doing one, but that included replacing the final drive bearings and seals, and the brake band.

Hard part is getting the track off. The housing comes off pretty easy after you back the brake band all the way off. It's heavy if you try to lift it yourself, some long studs to slide it off on will help.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun May 10, 2009 11:01 am

Normally I have everything in stock, sometimes out of one or the other items, but that usually means my stock order has not arrived yet.
Yes, you can do one side without the other. Often times when you do just one side, you realilze just how bad the other side is, and it will piss you off until you redo it as well.
Lavoy

JimAnderson
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Steering clutches

Post by JimAnderson » Sun May 10, 2009 6:38 pm

If you have never done the steering clutches on one of these old
girls before be aware of the two cap screws hidden under the machine
on each side.These capscrews bolt the steering clutch housing to
the final and are frequently overlooked.One big pry bar and the ears
break off the steering clutch housing.Seen a lot housing ears broken
off.Good luck,JimAnderson

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Lu47Dan
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Post by Lu47Dan » Mon May 11, 2009 7:53 pm

Randy , while I was tearing my 420 down for rebuild I build a lifting jig to remove the final drive housings . Scroll down in this link you will see the jig supporting the left side final drive .
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... 79&start=0
It was made from 1/2" CR round stock . It will save your back and your toes .
Dan
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!

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Gil
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Post by Gil » Tue May 12, 2009 10:39 pm

The lifting jig that Dan mentions is a good idea, especially if you are working by yourself. If you have a JD440, I would recommend that you make the jig in a smooth curve (see the Service Manual) so that you can rotate the final drive sideways as you pull it past the track frame.

It is critical that you attach the jig to the drive in some way. You can wire it on; but a better way would be to make the little legs that slide into the final drive a little long and then 1) thread them so you can put on a nut once they are through the final drive case or 2) drill a hole in the end so you can put in a cotter pin. This will save your toes as you try to turn the final drive and muscle it past the track frame.
JD440-ICD loader; JD440-IC bulldozer; JD440-ICD backhoe; JD440-I backhoe; JD440-I tractor; + five recumbent JD440-ICs

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Tractor 850
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Post by Tractor 850 » Wed May 13, 2009 3:17 pm

If you don't do something to keep the final on the hanger it will come off on it's own.
You can trust me on that.
Fortunately, in my case, no feet or finals were hurt during the experience.
Dave

JD440IC Ser#445235 W/ #63 Dozer
Ford 850 Ser#55497 W/Wagner Loader

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Post by frozendozer » Wed May 13, 2009 3:33 pm

i just finished putting my 440 icd together and took it for a spin last night. It turned both ways and seemed to be just fine. I rebuilt the clutches and got gears and seals as well. i figured since i got into the project that far i might as well replace. A oil seal failure is what caused the clutch to not work. I used a couple of long bolts as dowels to pull the housing out on, it worked fine.

Randy Richards
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thanks for all the tips

Post by Randy Richards » Wed May 13, 2009 4:04 pm

Thank you for the important information, I know that I'll need all of it down the road. So if you are in the area and would like to drop in feel free to do it any time. Thanks Again

Randy Richards
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Post by Randy Richards » Thu May 14, 2009 5:52 pm

Well it's in the shop I started stripping it today. SEAT , battery, loosen the skid plate and loosen the track. Then started on the track...nothing yet, do I need to take the tension off the pin to get it out? I HAVE THE pin at 10 o clock. could you set the pin 2 o clock on the drive sprocket? and how big of sledge do I need?

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Lu47Dan
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Post by Lu47Dan » Thu May 14, 2009 6:23 pm

Randy , loosen the track , locate the master pin approximately 5" above the floor at the front idler remove the snap ring , and drive the pin out .
As to the size of the sledge hammer , as big as you can swing usually does the trick . :twisted: That's if you can get someone to hold the drift pin :roll: . The master pins on my 420 were welded in , so I can not really say what will do it .
While you have the track off check your idler bushings , if they are worn this is the time to replace them .
One more thing about the lifting jig , I had trouble on my 420 five roller with the throwout bearing sleeve hanging the steering clutch drive shaft up and not letting the final drive housing turn far enough to clear the track frame extension , the sleeve pulled out easily by hand and then the housing cleared the track frame . Dan
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!

Randy Richards
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track is off

Post by Randy Richards » Fri May 29, 2009 6:50 am

I know to alot of you I sound like a moron, but the fact is this is new to me but with the help from all of you I can continue to go step by step., So yesterday after waiting for everything to be in alighment (the stars and earth) yesterday was the day. Now laugh if you must but this did work for me, I took a 4x4 16" and cut a grove in it the length of it ( to set over the raised track part) and then screwed a 8" cross peice to the one end. Then drilled a 1 1/4 " hole in it that would line up with the center of the track pin. Then I clamped the long peice to the track with the cross peice against the edge of the track (so if I miss it would have a solid backing) Then I used the 10" brass drift to punch the pin out. 6 hits is all it took and to my suprise I didn't even miss the drift. Shocking to say the least was my reaction when it worked, so laugh if you must... Well I'm off to borrow a 3/4 "socket set, CRAFTSMAN has a wonderfull guarentee! THANK YOU FOR THE SUPPORT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Maynah13
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Pin removal

Post by Maynah13 » Fri May 29, 2009 7:49 am

It would be great if you posted a photo of your contraption.

We call that kind of thinking "yankee ingenuity" up here.

Robert
450B and 750 w/backhoe

Randy Richards
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Post by Randy Richards » Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:39 pm

I'll have to get some one to post the picture soon as I can, Today I got the sprocket off and it seems every time I do something I have to lube it up something and wait . but I have lots of time.. Thanks

Randy Richards
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final on the bench

Post by Randy Richards » Mon Jun 15, 2009 6:13 pm

yes it hard to beleive I finally have the left final on the work bench and I'm ready to tear into it now. any suggestions , I'm all ears. Boy is that thing all rusted up on the inside

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