Need a bit of help.

[paulhoitink]

Hey everybody,

I'm new to the site, but am pleased to see there are so many enthusiasts out there. I have what I think is a 50s 440. It is a 2 cylinder gas. Runs great. But I've been having this problem.

Come back to it after a winter, start it up, let it run for a bit. Push clutch in put it in gear, won't move. So we do the engine clutch, (clutch between engine and transmission. This doesn't help at all. So somehow both of the clutches for the steering went at the same time? My uncle, a farmer told me to pour a bit of diesel down the inspection plug below the seat, this didn't help at all either.

SO I'm wondering what could be wrong, and is getting to these clutches a hard job? I have quite a bit of mechanical knowledge it is just this tractor is a the lake which is 150 miles away, and I'm stuck at home with a broken leg.

Any help would be appreciated.
Paul.

[Lavoy]

Does the crawler have a reverser? If so, it could be slipping, but not likely from just sitting. You will probably need to do some more diagnosing before putting any more parts in it. Does the PTO turn with the clutch out, do you have enough freeplay in the clutch, does the trans grind at all when you shift, are the steering clutch drive shafts turning, etc? If you don't have one, you need to get a service manual at the least, and should have a parts manual as well.
Never add any sort of petroleum product to dry type steering clutches, it ruins them. If you did not have a steering clutch problem before, you likely will now.
Lavoy

[JimAnderson]

Paul,
If you replaced the main clutch and the machine won't move then
you may have a drive line failure somewhere else.I do believe
another site member had a similar problem and found that when the
pedal was lifted to release the clutch that it didn't fully come up.One
way to check this is to put the machine in neutral and remove the
shift cover.Start it up and see if the gears are turning.If they are not
moving with engine running then you may a clutch release problem.
The odds of both steering clutches failing so that the machine won't
move are remote.Usually they won't release if the machine has
sat for awhile but the machine will move in a straight line just not
turn.JimAnderson

[paulhoitink]

Paul,
If you replaced the main clutch and the machine won't move then
you may have a drive line failure somewhere else.I do believe
another site member had a similar problem and found that when the
pedal was lifted to release the clutch that it didn't fully come up.One
way to check this is to put the machine in neutral and remove the
shift cover.Start it up and see if the gears are turning.If they are not
moving with engine running then you may a clutch release problem.
The odds of both steering clutches failing so that the machine won't
move are remote.Usually they won't release if the machine has
sat for awhile but the machine will move in a straight line just not
turn.JimAnderson

Thank you Jim Anderson. I will check this when I get to the machine. And Lavoy, you know your stuff. I have a service manual but it is with the machine, I will provide more info when i tear into it.

thanks paul

[lastchancegarage]

Paul,
Along the lines of what Jim was saying, have you checked your clutch and brake pedals to ensure they're both moving full travel independant of each other? When I got my 440 the dual shaft which both pedals use was so gummed up inside, when you hit the brake the clutch pedal would go down also. I pumped some trans fluid into the grease fitting and worked both pedals by hand until they both moved independantly. Then I pushed out the trans fluid with grease. If your shaft is similar, you're probably limiting the clutch travel if you hit the brake at all. Just push on either pedal and see how much the other moves. Mine were stuck so bad you really couldn't break one free from the other at the start. Took some soaking before things started to move. When they're loosened all the way you should feel a positive stop on either pedal at the top of it's travel with the other pedal not moving at all. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Scott

[paulhoitink]

Hey Guys,
I got out to the cabin, uncovered it, found out that a snake decided to make my John Deere its home, so after evicting him I check and it is a 420C. 1956. The battery was dead, so I'm going to pick up a new 6 volt in the city and head back out on Wednesday most likely. Has anyone converted there machine to 12 volt?

I also cannot find my service manual for it. Anywhere online where I can get a new one?


And I also have to get some pictures up of this thing, it appears to be factory but I'm betting its not. Its name is Henry. Anyone ever heard of this? It also has an aftermarket, I think homemade bucket on it that is wayyy to big.

[Lavoy]

Henry made loaders for the John Deere and other crawlers and tractors, fairly common.
I have service manuals on hand.
6V or 12V is kind of a contentious issue in most circles, and is largely a personal choice. My personal opinion is that they work just fine on 6V, and anything else is a bandaid fix for an existing problem. The other opinion on the subject I have is, on 12V, sooner or later you will be buying either a nose cone for you starter, a ring gear for your flywheel, or a starter drive, or all three. The price of the first two alone if you figure any labor will buy a pretty nice 6 volt system.
If you go 12 volts, there are ways to make it better, the most expensive of which is to have the starter remade into 12 volts, then my above statements do not apply.
Lavoy

[paulhoitink]

Thanks for the info Lavoy. Ya I am going to stick with 6 volt. I was just wondering because this is the only thing that i have that is 6 volt so its a bit of a pain, but not bad. You run this site right? Meaning this manual is for sale? If so how much?

[Lavoy]

Sure is, would have to double check for sure, but $75 or less.
Lavoy