I kind of have a little problem with the return line on the injection pump on my diesel 1010. I seem to have aquired a leak coming from the fitting on the back of the injection pump and cant quite see where its coming from. It appears to be a brass fitting with a rubber line going back to the fuel tank. It would probably be a no brainer to replace whatever it is but my problem is that I cant physically see where its leaking and if I have to remove the IP getting it backed to timed. I dont have the timing window and really not sure how to do it anyway. Is there anyway to loosen the IP and pull it out an inch or 2 without loosing the time?
The machine is remote so whatever I decide to do will have to be prepared ahead of time and then do the fix. I want to get my ducks in a row before I dig in. Any thoughts?
Injec. pump timing and return line prob
Injec. pump timing and return line prob
Last edited by SmallTime on Sat Jul 11, 2009 5:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
You can center punch a mark on the pump, and a mark on the block, or use a scribe and make a line. There is already a line in the block, and should be timing marks on the pump body as well, if you can see them, you can use them as a reference as well.
Tie the throttle lever to idle on the pump before removal, and don't untie until it is reinstalled. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OR PUMP AT ALL once it is removed. Fix your leak, reinstall the pump, and align marks on pump and block.
Lavoy
Tie the throttle lever to idle on the pump before removal, and don't untie until it is reinstalled. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OR PUMP AT ALL once it is removed. Fix your leak, reinstall the pump, and align marks on pump and block.
Lavoy
Ok, thanks alot. I dont need too much room to get to the fitting, how long is the shaft on the pump? Would it be easier to pull the pump out an inch or 2 and change the fitting or should I just risk it and pull it compleatly out like you mentioned? Im a little nervious about pulling it in the middle of nowhere and loosing the time on it. Do you sell the little window the book calls for or can it be timed without it? Just wondering if its worth the risk since its just a drip and not pouring out and it is on the return line to the tank.Lavoy wrote:You can center punch a mark on the pump, and a mark on the block, or use a scribe and make a line. There is already a line in the block, and should be timing marks on the pump body as well, if you can see them, you can use them as a reference as well.
Tie the throttle lever to idle on the pump before removal, and don't untie until it is reinstalled. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OR PUMP AT ALL once it is removed. Fix your leak, reinstall the pump, and align marks on pump and block.
Lavoy
Re: Injec. pump timing and return line prob
Leaks on fuel-injection pumps can be deceiving - so look closely. Fuel can run all over the place and it is sometimes difficult to tell, for sure, where the source is.SmallTime wrote:I kind of have a little problem with the return line on the injection pump on my diesel 1010. I seem to have aquired a leak coming from the fitting on the back of the injection pump and cant quite see where its coming from.
You can buy an entire seal-kit for you injection pump for $12 - $15. I'd start by having one of those kits on hand. Then, you will have any seal you might need. Also, you might want to get yourself some injector return-line hose. It is not easy to find since it is NOT a standard item at auto or tractor parts stores. Deere sells it and so do pump shops, industrial suppliers, etc. It is a small ID hose that has heavy walls and can stretch, a lot.
In regard to pulling the pump off and timing? Generally speaking, these pumps when mounted horizontally get pulled off the shaft when removed from the engine (like on 350s, 450s, etc). Thus, the throttle needs to be tied back. That because the shaft needs to be inside the pump to help hold things togehter once throttle tension is released. But . . . the 1010 has a vertically mounted pump (e.g. 1010s, 2010s, 500s, etc.). Vertical pumps are supposed to come off the engine with the shaft remaining in the pump. Totally different situation, so no there is no need to tie the throttle back. That pump should pull off along with the shaft, and the shaft has two-flats on it. Very easy to put it back in just as it came out.
In regard to the timing window - it is only needed for setting timing advance-curve when the engine is running and is NOT needed for simple pump removal and installation.
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