440IC gas engine parts

[Ben.Ehrhart]

I have a 440 IC (SN: 441200). It starts fine in the summer, but it starts hard or won't start at all in the winter. If it does start in the cold, it runs very rough for about 30 seconds, then it smooths out and runs fine. I have tried various methods of heating the engine, with minimal success. My best guess at this point is that I have sticky valves and I probably need to pull the head and go over everything. I was looking for any advice before I open that can of worms, and I was curious about the availability of any parts that I may need to do the job. Is there a kit with standard parts that should be replaced? If so, how much does it cost?

I also need a replacement manifold, as mine is rusted through. Is this avaliable, and how much do the run?

[Eric.MacLeod]

hello ben, i dont think that you have sticky valves,if that was so it wouldnt run any better in the summer vs the winter. it sounds to me that you have a carb issue, in the winter you have to choke the engine to give it extra fuel, not so much in the summer. you dont need to warm the engine i think that you just need to clean the carb and make sure that the choke is working right. you might be surprised what half an hours work on your carb will do for you... Eric

[H-D]

To me, the rusty manifold was the major give away. Try a compression test (wet & dry). My guess is that they'll both be low; probably with one lower than the other, due to corrosion at valves & seats & possibly some valve warping. Try Marvel oil for freeing gummed up valves. You might want to set the valve lash (I'm one of a few who believe in valve/seat recession with unleaded fuel).

[Eric.MacLeod]

the fact that this motor runs good in the summer tells me that the valves are fine, you can take the rusted manifold off and throw it and it will not change your compression, exhaust manifolds can be a factor in making torque or horsepower but wont change compression, take any good running engine in the summer and try starting it in the winter without extra fuel ( choke or plugged fuel circuit) not working good luck, if you run a harley then you know what im talking about,adjust air screw in the summer and try running it in the fall, it runs lean and pops and sputters untill you give it one more turn on screw. matter of fact i bet my harley wont start at all in the winter without the choke and several twist of the fuel pump, just my thought... Eric

[Lavoy]

I highly doubt any of the problem is related to valves, if it was, it would occur at all times, not just in Winter. Pretty much all of these old girls are going to run a little rough in the Winter for 30 seconds, or a couple minutes. Once they are warmed up, they run much better, no different than any old carburated engine without an automatic choke, they are just lean. As was mentioned, you will also need to adjust the load needle in colder temps.
As to valves, I have never had a two cylinder valve warp, never really had valve trouble in general other than just plain old wear.
If you want to rebuild the head, it won't hurt a thing, but will likely not help the problem either. If you have low compression, it is almost always a piston, rings, or bore wear issue in these engines.
As to parts, everything you need is readily available, just let me know.
Lavoy

[Ben.Ehrhart]

Thanks for the input. The carb is clean and the choke seems to work fine. My theory of sticky valves is based on the fact that, when it's cold and won't start, I get some exhaust out the stack, but only an occasional weak sputter. It's like there is some combustion but not enough pressure to really fire. I also tend to get an occasional puff back through the carb. I did test the compression, and it seemed fine, although possibly intermittent. I have tried Marvel Mystery Oil -- not sure if it helped, but it didn't seem to hurt.

[Lavoy]

I would check the timing to make sure it is correct, I have had some of these be very, very sensitive to timing as far as start up.
Might also want to pull the valve cover and set the valves. While you are there, wiggle the top of the valves back and forth. If you get a lot of movement, then the guides are worn, and it is possible that you are getting some leakage as well.
Lavoy