frozen steering clutch shaft

[johndeere1936]

:?: To anyone out there with a little more knowledge than me, I'm
New to the site, new in sense that this is my first piece of equipment with tracks. Got a JD1010 about two years ago from the Denver area and it had been sitting exposed to old mother nature for a number of years, long story made short the right steering clutch was completely gone and had taken in a lot of water. we've replaced all the clutches,bearings , throw out bearing all reasembled but never moved the steering lever, now I find the steering clutch shaft is frozen tight!! I've been soaking it with liquid wrench, and JB 80, and another can I had around there for three weeks and it won't budge, the connecting arm with the set screw, I stripped thad ,then welded a 7/16 nut on top and threaded a bolt in, now I've been using a big pry bar against the side of the case but it still will not release. If any one has any helpful suggestions I'm all ears.

[spenceraucoin]

cut shaft, hammer the pices out change brass sleves top and bottom, and try to salvage the fork if you can. only do this if you cannot get it to move, i had the same problem and had to cut shaft, lube shaft ends when putting new ones,

[CELSESSER]

Siding man,
Be careful about prying on that cast iron too hard, you don't want to break it.
Have you tried a little heat ? Have heard beeswax will penitrate well when you heat the part. Maybe some vibration from an air chisel would help break it loose. were all the linkages inside free?
Patience may be your best friend.

Chuck

[johndeere1936]

cut shaft, hammer the pices out change brass sleves top and bottom, and try to salvage the fork if you can. only do this if you cannot get it to move, i had the same problem and had to cut shaft, lube shaft ends when putting new ones,

thanks - that sure sounds better than pulling it all apart - Siding man

[johndeere1936]

Chuck,
I've used a small amount of heat from small propane torch. Guess I'll have to get the acetylene tip in there. I'll try this before going to the cutting shaft method. Thanks.
Siding Man

[pop pop]

after 3 weeks of panther piss, pinging and heat(use torch and get it HOT) and let it cool ,temp. cycling helps break it free, more piss,,,, after that, cut and pound, cause you'll find you need to bush the hole cause of pitting and the shaft will be just as bad resulting on slop. so cut and pound.

[Lavoy]

I have never cut one, but I have had to drive a few out the bottom of the housing, clean up the bushings and the shaft and reassemble. I would believe that you are not likely to ever free it up much without removal of the shaft.
Lavoy

[CELSESSER]

Lavoy,
Doesn't that shaft run through a bronze bushing? The shafts must really grow in diameter. Seems like the bushing would start turning in the casting with much torque put on it.
Chuck

Another good spot for a dab of Antiseise on assembly!

[Lavoy]

Yes they do. Most of the ones I have taken out are really tight from the rust. For the most part, the bushings have stayed in the housing, never had much trouble with that, although I can see where they might come out. That wouldn't be the end of the world if they did, not hard to replace them. I use anti-seize all the time on parts like that.
Lavoy