Lavoy, got a ques.

[SmallTime]

Just wanted to make sure the steering clutch housings on a 1010 were cast iron and not cast steel. Pretty sure I said my final was cracked but actually I ment the clutch housings. I got a friend that was going to weld em for me if it was cast iron. Found some other cracks that were welded by a previous owner and now Im wondering if they might not be cast steel?

Have I confused you yet?

[Jimmy in NC]

Smalltime-

That's a common place for them to crack if things get loose. All of that final drive is hanging on that steering clutch housing. After you get her patched up make sure your undercarriage is square to the tractor/drive sprockets. If they are skewed it will try to twist the finall all the time.


I'm not sure on the material though... I know mine were cracked and I had them brazed up as opposed to welded. Just my $.02


Jimmy in NC

[Lavoy]

They are cast iron, not cast steel, wish they were, that would make fixing easier.
Lavoy

[SmallTime]

Thanks guys. Jimmy your right, as Ive been messing with this thing I started tightening up final bolts, man there were a lot of loose ones. Also the nuts on the large ubolts on the center brace were really loose. Im sure if someone had taken the time to tighten up things everynow and then, it never would have cracked.

[Jimmy in NC]

Smalltime-

Take your time cleaning and repairing. You'd be suprised what thourghly cleaning will show. A crack that holds moisture a lil longer etc. Find all the flaws you can, repair to the best of your ability, and give her a little love. You should be crawlin' along again in no time!


Jimmy in NC

[SmallTime]

Thanks Jimmy, yea Ive been taking care of a ton of little things, nothing too serious yet but the cracks. This thing has been neglected pretty bad, maintained just enough to keep working it it looks like. I was just about to put together the right track after changing some busted up rollers, welding the sprocket and fixing bent up guards.
Seems Im dripping a little 90wt from the plug on the cracked brake housing too. Maybe a half dozen drops just sitting there since Sept. I probably wouldnt sweat it but its just enough to get me wondering about the seal to the transmission. Looking down from the top, the brake and everything I can see looks dry. Doesnt seem bad at all but you know how those things never get any better.
How much work is it to change out that seal, Ive never been in there before?

[Jimmy in NC]

Smalltime-

I dunno on a 1010.. I've only been into a (and still am currently in a 420). I'd be willing to bet though that it's pretty much the same routine. That being said... it's the disassembly of the final drive if I'm correct. On mine it was the pinion shaft seal leaking. This the seal was totally shot on mine and the shaft was also worn badly. Lavoy has provided me with a repair sleve and a complete rebuild kit for the final (bearings, races, seals, etc.)

The only other place it could come from would be the transmission. There is a gasket and seal on the 420. You pull 6-8 bolts out and the whole assebmly slides out. Again two more areas I addressed while I had the steering clutch housing off.

I may be totally off base..I don't know how similar the 1010 is to the 420. Lavoy can probably tell you if I'm way off base. If they are the same I may have just confused you....it seems confusing in the final.. and a little intimidating. It's not. Two shafts, four bearings and races, a few seals and gaskets and some shims. Again... just take the time to clean and inspect everything.


In short.. I'd find the source of that oil... dry clutches and band brakes don't mix with gear lube. If you don't find the source now.. you'll be looking for it when the clutches are gone.

Jimmy in NC

[SmallTime]

Thanks Jimmy, Ill look around and see what I can find. Ive got a book around here somewhere, I guess Ill look it up and see what it involves. Im gonna end up rebuilding this whole thing....I just know it