2010 diesal smoke

[raceyalater]

Hello,If you cant tell by the posts this thing is fighting all the way! I couldnt get it to run, so I had the injection pump rebuilt. Now it starts and runs but smokes terrible. I double checked number one compression(front cylinder) stroke is in time with window in pump. I have bled the lines and pump. I dont get much stumble out of no.3 & 4 cylinders when I crack them. Could this mean bad valves or worse rings/pistons? Smoke is more white grey, then with throttle it blackens. It appears a little blue, but this engine sat for years. Any ideas?
Thanks

[Tigerhaze]

I dont get much stumble out of no.3 & 4 cylinders when I crack them. Could this mean bad valves or worse rings/pistons?

Are you sure your No. 3 and 4 injectors are good? Did you have them spray pattern tested while you had it apart?

Smoke is more white grey, then with throttle it blackens. It appears a little blue, but this engine sat for years. Any ideas?
Thanks

Grey smoke is usally normal, but if excessively white could indicate water in combustion chamber. I've heard black smoke is not bad for a diesel under throttle. Blue smoke usually means oil burning but a little blue would seem to me to be normal for an older, worn engine. I have a worn Ford diesel tractor that fogs out the area with blue smoke so that gives you an idea.

[raceyalater]

I took the injectors in with the pump. They said they tips looked good, they popped off good and he said they pulsed good. So I think the spray pattern would be ok?

[gus]

I'm not a diesel mech, but how hard would it be to switch #1 and #4(or 3/2) injectors? That would tell you more of what might be wrong, cyl or injector.

[H-D]

If it's easy enough to adapt an air source to the cylinders (glow plug?), you might try the ol' gas method of putting the piston at TDC compression & listening at the intake, exhaust, & crankcase breather to determine parts conditions. I myself am LAZY; I'd throw some MMO in the crankcase (20%?) & run it 'til it skanked the oil & change it. Two applications oughta be enough to show an improvement if it's only gummed/stuck rings & gummy valve guides. Some in the fuel would probably be a benefit too.

[Dave T]

For what it's worth, I have had good luck wth the John Deere Industrial dealer in Bloomington, IN. They have helped me on both parts and information concerning my 440 IC.

[RedDirt]

Just a couple of things that were giving similar issues on my 2010 diesel to check.

White smoke - I got lots of it and still get some when it is cold and more when it is cold out. I found that there was no thermostat in the thing so it never was getting to the right coolant temp. I'd make sure your thermostat is closing and keeping the jacket at 180 or so.

When mine is warmed up to full temp and lightly loaded, say traveling on level ground, there is almost no smoke, very little. But under heavy loads, pushing or ripping or lifting something heavy it will smoke black. Heavier the load the more the smoke. I think this is just fine from the diesels I've been around somewhat normal.

I put some two stroke outboard oil in my diesel, about 1 oz per gallon and that seems to make it run a bit smoother. I hear that the low sulfur diesel these days is not good for these old engines from the 60's and that the two stroke outboard oil adds back some of the missing lubrication needed.

[Lavoy]

TCWIII is a very good additive for use in rotary style injector pumps, I would HIGHLY recommend it. Very very few of the name brand, high dollar fuel additives were are able to improve the lubricity of ULSD to the point required for these old rotary pumps.
Lavoy

[raceyalater]

Well, here's the update. I swapped injectors, no help. I did a compression test, all cylinders were low- about 225lbs-but all about the same. I ran the HECK out of it with no real change. The smoke was pretty good at low idle, with a little blue/white smoke, but at rpm it blue/white smoked excessively!! So, I tore it down, were I found what looks like water pitting in the cylinders and head. The rings had chips missing at there edges and scoring on the faces----oil burn. The oil was starting to smell like it had diesel in it also.
Has anyone ever sleeved one of these sleeve plates, Maybe with a thin wall sleeve? Pistons look decent, crank has been turned .020 at some time and looks ok.
Thanks

[mini kahuna]

you will need a new or good used sleeve deck,it would be very smart to have the block magnafluxed for cracks too.
the sealing area at the bottom of the block for the cylinder o rings needs to be cleaned up real well too...if it is pitted or rusty at all you will have a coolant leak when you put it back together.
sometimes you can find motor or parts and go that route....you now see why 1010 and 2010 are kinda tough to repair with that deck style engine.
If your block is good,you can buy the cylinder deck and new pistons,john deere is very proud of them so bring your checkbook.