420C Steering lever stuck

[57pilot]

I recently bought a 420C that had sat outside under tarps for 25 years. Got the engine unstuck and running although with lots of blue smoke, hydaulics work and I've moved it under its own power a few feet but the left steering lever is firmly stuck (no motion whatsoever) in it's forward position. I've read the various threads on steering clutch repair but don't really know where to begin on this problem. I don't want to start tearing the final drive apart if there's something else I should try first. Thanks for your help.

[CELSESSER]

57pilot,
Firts welcome aboard!
If there is no movement at all in the steering lever I would conclude that the linkage is rusted together. Very likely the clutch is rusted also as it all shares the same compartment.
Take the small rectangular cover(4"x5" approx) off the top of the clutch housing and shine a light in there to see if there is water in there and just how rusty things are. Normally they are a dusty black hole due to the clutch dust, it should be dry though.
Ultimately it will probably have to come apart ( remove everything down to the clutch housing to free the frozen linkage.
Don't pull too hard on the steering lever as you can break them where they attach to the shaft under the seat. You might try tapping the end if the above shaft lightly while putting a little pressure back on the steering lever but I suspect it will not accomplish much
If you don't already have them, a service and parts mannual will prove to be invaluable to you in this quest.
As you have probably read on this board, Do Not get any oils or penatrants on the clutch or you will be taking it apart to replace the clutch fibers anyway.

Hope this helps in some way,

Chuck

[57pilot]

Thanks Chuck, I'll give the shaft tapping a try. Is it possible to get some penetrant on that shaft without getting it into the clutch? Can the hub of the steering lever that rotates on the shaft be safely heated?

[Lavoy]

Look at the opposite end of the shaft from the steering lever. It goes into the final drive case, there is a small freeze plug covering the hole. On the steering lever end of the shaft, there is a bronze bushing, so they typically don't stick there. On the opposite end, it is in the final drive case, metal on metal, and often times will rust solid there. You can heat some around the shaft and see what happens, and if you remove the freeze plug, you can get some penetrant on the shaft.
BUT, as a general rule, any crawler sitting outside for that many years, tarp or otherwise is going to have some sort of steering clutch problems. If you have not already get a factory parts and service manual.
Lavoy

[57pilot]

Thanks for the descriptions. I won't be able to work on the tractor until after next week but will try your suggestions.

I have a reprint of the "Operator's Manual, OM-T31-756" which has pretty good photos on adjusting the clutch/brake.

I also have a commercially made xerox-type copy of what appears to an "official" John Deere Service Manual that covers Models MC, 40C, 420C, 430C, 4401C, 4401CD. Because it is a xerox copy the photos are not all that clear, especially in the areas of interest!

Are better manuals available? Would also like to find a wiring diagram.

[Paul Buhler]

Welcome to a different world of skinned knuckles.
Go to JD's site for a .pdf of the parts manual. For model type in "420" then scroll down to "505 - 420 and 430 Tractors", and download it. Good luck with your project and please share what you find and how you fix it - pictures are appreciated if time allows. Paul

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com. ... ervlet_Alt

[Lavoy]

The manual you have is an I & T manual, they are good for general reference and bird cage liners only. Follow Paul's link and download the parts manual. Watch on Ebay for a Deere service manual, it is much more detailed, and will have a wiring diagram in it as well.
Lavoy

[57pilot]

I lucked out. When I removed the cover everything was a mass of rust but with some judicious tapping with a 3 lb hammer while putting moderate back pressure on the lever it freed up. Pulling the lever all the way back does work the external brake rod. If I understand it, that seems to be the way it's supposed to work. I can't tell if it is working the steering clutch though. Having seen how the left lever works it is obvious that there is a problem with the right lever as it just floats back with no resistance until the very end of its travel when it moves the external brake rod a tad.

Next problem: watching the brake rods they move both the clutch and brake pedals in unison so the clutch and brake pedal shafts are seized together. I have managed to get them to move through the full range of motion but only with considerable force and the penetrant doesn't seem to be able to get where it will do any good. Is there a way to get penetrant on the brake shaft to help free up the clutch shaft? I found a thread on this problem but they had the center section out of the tractor.

[Lavoy]

No real good way to work on stuck pedal shaft. If you can get any independant motion from the two, there is one thing you can try. In the past, I have taken the brake pedal off, disconnect both brake rods, and see if you can get the brake pedal shaft to move to the left any. You can get a couple of inches of it sticking out before it hits the frame. This is enough to emery cloth the shaft, and get the penetrant in deeper.
Lavoy

[57pilot]

Thanks for the suggestion. I can get independent movement of the brake and clutch shafts. I've cycled them through their full range of movement at least a hundred times but the drag has not lessened.

The parts manual shows the brake pedal held on the shaft by a "groove" pin. Any advice on driving that out? Can it be drilled out? I presume the pin is hardened steel.

[Lavoy]

Yes the pin is hard, but no need to drill out normally. The pin is tapered, so only put it in one way. Look at the brake pedal, you will see the pin, drive agains the smaller diameter end and is should come right out.
Lavoy