1010 Crawler wont start

[boothj]

Looking for some help to solve a problem. I was running my 1010 for about an hour, no problem. I shut off the engine after letting it idle for a minute or so and when I went to restart it, it won't fire.

The engine cranks, there's lots of gas and there appeared to be a spark from the plugs. Not sure how good, but I did see a spark.

Any suggestions on what could be wrong would be appreciated. I am considering changing out all the distributor parts (cap, rotor, condensor and maybe even the coil) just to be sure.

[H-D]

I'm cheap. I'd start by 'reading' the plugs. Plugs fouled with sooty deposits or oily carbonized ones too, will carry fire over the ceramic instead of across the gap. I've seen this, it looked odd because of the direction the spark was going, but there was spark. If you do find soot, think carburetor before ignition. Were there any signs of flooding when you tried to restart? Even if it is a spark deficiency it could be excess amp draw by the starter, or something as simple as a bad coil secondary wire (had that too). An old poor boy try is to pull the coil wire terminal out of the coil or cap enough to create a small (1/16"-1/8") gap & try starting again. Often times the 'gap' creates a spark hot enough to fire fouled plugs. Fouled plugs also totally deplete the current saturation in the coil, this robs some of the energy from the next plug to fire. Perhaps your 1010 needs the whole enchilada, but I cringe at the shotgun approach (see first sentence).

[boothj]

I checked the plugs a couple of days later after trying to start the engine again. They appeared dry and brown. Eventually I did notice that I had flooded the engine as I could see gas dripping from the large tube exiting the rear of the carb. (not sure exactly what that is?)

I will try your suggestions and see if I can get closer to diagnosing the problem.

Thanks,

[Tigerhaze]

I would second the idea of fuel fouled plugs. Fuel fouled spark plugs can keep the engine from starting, even if they look relatively clean. Once I have fuel fouled plugs, I have simply replaced them and that has cured the starting problem.

I have had this problem more often with Champion plugs, but believe me I am not trying to start another debate about the best plug brands.

[Willyr]

I have some fire brick I created a mini oven with. Placed the plugs inside and closed up the oven so I could still see the plugs laying on their side. Then with a propane torchand a indirect flame (flame heats oven, not pointed at plugs!), heated the plugs up to an orange glow. Let them cool, then a simple shot of air and the plugs cleaned right up for re-use.

If your cylinder is fouled and you put new plugs in the wet cylinders, you will merely foul the new plugs. However, if while the plugs are out you go and wind that engine over for 5 seconds, you will allow the engine to vent off that extra fuel and you can try again. If you really want to be exciting (hopefully your block is clean for this) when you wind over your engine have the flame from a torch out side the plug hole. You will get an interesting mini flame thrower till the cylinders clear. Plus on the exhaust stroke the flame may get sucked inside the cylinder and help dry it out.

Compression check is always helpful, as stated above making the spark hotter by giving the coil some air space some times helps. Alas the problem with this is if you have arcing in your wires / cap or anywhere, you will make it that much easier for the arc. Electricity doesnt like to work. IE you see a spark on the end of the plug with no compression. Yet if the working end is under 80 - 100 pounds of pressure and you look at it the spark will be different or in a spot non condusive for ignition.

With your plugs in the engine at night. Wind over the engine with out lights. If your wires are bad and sometimes they are, you will see an interesting light show of high voltage telling you why your engine wont start with new plugs.

[Jack-the-Ripper]

I can foul a lot of plugs when diagnosing a rich mixture or oil leaking into the cylinders, and I live far from the parts house.

I clamp the plugs individually into my bench vise and brush them briefly with a very small oxy-acetylene flame adjusted with some extra oxygen, to remove any spark-stealing carbon residue.

Too much heat or redness will sometimes crack the insulator. Play with this gently using the the tip of the flame farthest from the torch to start and you'll get the hang of it.