Frist of all thanks for having this forum. I've been doing some reading and found lots of great info here. I plan to do more reading as I have time. I also found this site. http://johnnypopper.com/weirddeere/NG/T ... Wheel.html
I am getting this crawler.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... highlight=
First question is what is the difference in a 1010 and 2010? Are steering clutches interchangable?
I'm doing a trade and comitted to getting it so assume I already have it. What do I need to do as an inspection before putting it to use?
How hard is it to change the steering clutches? (I have a full shop with a lift, but know the lift won't help much.)
63 2010
63 2010
1963 2010C loader
-
RedDirt
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:10 pm
- Location: California Sierra Nevada Mtns
On the how hard is the steering clutch job question. Both Pammark and I are in the rebuild stages of two different 2010 steering clutches and are documenting our work on this forum with pictures. We don't work together but I learn lots from his pictures and discussion.
I would say it is a fair amount of work. I'm not keeping track of the hours but it's been a few days to get it torn down and do the machine work on my seal surfaces. I'm just now ready to start reassembly. I'm guessing that will be a few more days to put it all back together. I'm sure there will be new learnings there for me, fortunately Pammark is ahead of me so I have that advantage of learning from him.
Search this site there is so much from so many that have the 2010. We don't all get on here every day but the 2010 guys have helped me so much. Lavoy is always there with an answer and parts.
I would say it is a fair amount of work. I'm not keeping track of the hours but it's been a few days to get it torn down and do the machine work on my seal surfaces. I'm just now ready to start reassembly. I'm guessing that will be a few more days to put it all back together. I'm sure there will be new learnings there for me, fortunately Pammark is ahead of me so I have that advantage of learning from him.
Search this site there is so much from so many that have the 2010. We don't all get on here every day but the 2010 guys have helped me so much. Lavoy is always there with an answer and parts.
RedDirt - 2010 Diesel Crawler Loader Drott 4in1
Well now that I have it I have already fixed a few things.
The left control was not attached to the thowout bearing lever. It had pulled through. I put a washer in there and put it back together.
The right side would tend to slip some. I adjusted the lever as I don't think it was fully disengaging.
On the left side I have to pull extremely hard to get it to work. I thought maybe just needed to wear off the rust, but I suspect its something more.
The oil had not been changed since 2006 and it had water in it because the exhaust is not done right. That's my next thing to fix before I try to test drive it some more.
The carb had a 3" filter directly attached to it. I need to get the hose to go to the main filter assembly.
The left control was not attached to the thowout bearing lever. It had pulled through. I put a washer in there and put it back together.
The right side would tend to slip some. I adjusted the lever as I don't think it was fully disengaging.
On the left side I have to pull extremely hard to get it to work. I thought maybe just needed to wear off the rust, but I suspect its something more.
The oil had not been changed since 2006 and it had water in it because the exhaust is not done right. That's my next thing to fix before I try to test drive it some more.
The carb had a 3" filter directly attached to it. I need to get the hose to go to the main filter assembly.
1963 2010C loader
I guess it could be worse. Basically I think there has been little or no maintenance done to it recently. With that in mind I plan to do all of it as I can. The biggest problem is trying to figure out what the problems are and what needs to be done.
1. What type of transmission do I have? Mesh or hi-lo-rev? I have a shifter in the middle that goes low-high-neutral-reverse. There is a trans shifter on the right side of the dash, but if I try to shift with the engine running it grinds gears. I think it has several gears to it. Is there a trick to shifting without turn off the engine? The shifter in the floor seems to make little difference from high to low. Can I change the trans filter without changing the trans fluid? I thought I might remove it for inspection.
2. The fluid tank in the tank under the floorboard may have water in it. The dipstick looked a little milky. If so how did it get there? MAybe it's just humidity. I think this is the transmission fluid?
3. The left side brake requires extreme force. Is this just some rust that needs to wear off due to non use or is it a sign of a bigger problem?
4. Thanks for your time to answer.
1. What type of transmission do I have? Mesh or hi-lo-rev? I have a shifter in the middle that goes low-high-neutral-reverse. There is a trans shifter on the right side of the dash, but if I try to shift with the engine running it grinds gears. I think it has several gears to it. Is there a trick to shifting without turn off the engine? The shifter in the floor seems to make little difference from high to low. Can I change the trans filter without changing the trans fluid? I thought I might remove it for inspection.
2. The fluid tank in the tank under the floorboard may have water in it. The dipstick looked a little milky. If so how did it get there? MAybe it's just humidity. I think this is the transmission fluid?
3. The left side brake requires extreme force. Is this just some rust that needs to wear off due to non use or is it a sign of a bigger problem?
4. Thanks for your time to answer.
1963 2010C loader
-
RedDirt
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:10 pm
- Location: California Sierra Nevada Mtns
1. Sounds like a HLR to me. There is not that much difference in H and L on mine either. the shifter on the dash changes gears 1 through 4, or with the H and L you get 8 gear combinations. I did change my trans filter without changing the fluid and it will leak a fair amount of fluid before you can get the new filter seated. I'm going to change my fluid now too after I ran a couple dozen hours on the old.
2. The fluid in the dipstick under your left leg is the dipstick for the transmission fluid. Milky is bad. This should be clean clear fluid. I think you might consider a drain of the trans and a new filter. I try to keep my 2010 under a tarp when not in use to keep water out. The old seals everywhere on these old tractors are suspect to me.
3. I'd pull the inspection cover on the steering clutch and brake and look in there. Mine was slipping and it was oil from the final drive and ring gear that caused this problem. I'm sure there could be other problems, like excessive wear on the clutch or as simple as adjusting the clutch and brake. Adjustment needs to follow the exact sequence in the manual as it is complicated but essential. I'd start with the adjustment procedure as it is cheapest and will tell if there is other problems.
4. Post pictures of what you have and are doing and learn. It helps us all to see what it is going on.
2. The fluid in the dipstick under your left leg is the dipstick for the transmission fluid. Milky is bad. This should be clean clear fluid. I think you might consider a drain of the trans and a new filter. I try to keep my 2010 under a tarp when not in use to keep water out. The old seals everywhere on these old tractors are suspect to me.
3. I'd pull the inspection cover on the steering clutch and brake and look in there. Mine was slipping and it was oil from the final drive and ring gear that caused this problem. I'm sure there could be other problems, like excessive wear on the clutch or as simple as adjusting the clutch and brake. Adjustment needs to follow the exact sequence in the manual as it is complicated but essential. I'd start with the adjustment procedure as it is cheapest and will tell if there is other problems.
4. Post pictures of what you have and are doing and learn. It helps us all to see what it is going on.
RedDirt - 2010 Diesel Crawler Loader Drott 4in1
The inspection covers (there are two of them, one for each steering clutch assembly) are to each side of the deluxe seat assembly, at the top of the steering clutch housings. They basically are a rectangular plate with four bolts, I believe. After removing them you may want to use a gasket or RTV to keep out future moisture.
As for the dash gear shifter grinding, mine does too. To be honest, I rarely shift out of 1st because my undercarriage is so worn that the tracks tend to derail off the bottom rollers if I go any faster.
I would suggest shifting only after coming to a stop with clutch pedal pressed, throttle reduced, and H-L-R in neutral. I can't remember what the operator's manual says for the correct procedure, but that has worked for me.
The difference between low and high is noticeable, but not significant. I rarely use the high gear other- I just go slow with the flow
As for the dash gear shifter grinding, mine does too. To be honest, I rarely shift out of 1st because my undercarriage is so worn that the tracks tend to derail off the bottom rollers if I go any faster.
I would suggest shifting only after coming to a stop with clutch pedal pressed, throttle reduced, and H-L-R in neutral. I can't remember what the operator's manual says for the correct procedure, but that has worked for me.
The difference between low and high is noticeable, but not significant. I rarely use the high gear other- I just go slow with the flow
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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