jd 2010 running issues

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:11 pm

fires up and runs fine for 15 to 20 minutes, then starts to spit and sputter and then eventually dies. I changed the fuel filters and still does the same. it is diesel..any recommendations would be greatly apreciated.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:18 pm

I wanted to add that when it starts acting up the rpms start to drop off and when I give it more throttle it does not respond, rpms keep dropping off until it stalls. Ive cleaned the air filter and replaced the fuel filters....dont know what to do or check next.

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:36 pm

On a JD440 diesel, there is a linkage rod from the governor to the injector rack and I assume there is something similar on the 2010. If you move that rod up manually are you able to get the engine to rev up? If it will rev, then you are likely dealing with governor problems.

OneWelder · Post by **OneWelder** » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:44 pm

beginning to sound like fuel tank vent is plugged try running with fill cap very loose or off.

RedDirt · Post by **RedDirt** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:14 pm

I had a roosa master pump on a Case 480 of similar vintage do this. Found loose broken plastic parts in the pump that were messing up the whole operation of the pump. There are some inspections you can do for this via some of the removable ports on the pump. You really need a manual, a clean pump and lots of caution to open this up, there are springs and loose parts potential. The JD manual on Roosa master pumps is very good, it's number is SM2045.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 3:58 am

I talked to a guy I work with and he said the same thing about the plastic in the pump deteriorating over time so I think I have a good place to start looking. Thanks for all of your information..Ill post back after I get to dig into this a little more. Thanks again

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 6:56 am

There are quite a few posts from JDEmaris on this subject. Basically there was a plastic ring in those pumps that wears out over time and disintegrate. The resulting debris looks like mouse turds.

I would suggest you search for "mouse turds" in the search menu above and read those posts for more information.

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 7:52 am

I would check both the fuel return line and also the return line fitting coming out of the injection pump.

Had similar issues on a few engines. Very frustrating to find the real issue after installing a different injection pump.

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:54 am

I appreicate the information. From what ive been hearing it sounds like the governor weight vibration dampener has deteriorated and plugged my pump. Hopefully i can check it out this weekend. Ill let yall know what I find. Thanks for the help.

Stretch · Post by **Stretch** » Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:54 pm

I still would not overlook the fuel vent....
Just my 2 cents

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:05 pm

just started tearing into pump, lots of "mouse turds". Really need info on how to disassemble the pump. I saw JDmaris had picks of disassembling a pump but most of the pics have been removed. a diagram would be great. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 11:37 am

winnerjd2010 wrote:just started tearing into pump, lots of "mouse turds". Really need info on how to disassemble the pump. I saw JDmaris had picks of disassembling a pump but most of the pics have been removed. a diagram would be great. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

There's a webpage right now that has the expensive Deere Roosamaster/Stanadyne manual available for download free. Get it while you can. It's in a 214 megabyte PDF file.

Go the following, and then click on, and download IP.PDF Just keep in mind it's big and won't work well if you're using dial-up.

http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/trac ... IP_Manual/

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:47 am

Thanks JDEMARIS. I downloaded the roosa master manual. My next problem is that I cannot even complete the 1st step in disassembling the pump. It says to pull out the pump drive shaft, should pull right out but i cannnot get it to bugde. Im afraid to use too much force in fear of breaking something...anyone ran into this issue or have suggestions?

winnerjd2010 · Post by **winnerjd2010** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:25 am

Is complete pump disassembly required to replace the governor weight retainer ( the one the deteriorates causing mouse turds)? The less I have to tear apart, the better off I/the pump will be. Thanks

jdemaris · Post by **jdemaris** » Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:51 am

winnerjd2010 wrote:Thanks JDEMARIS. I downloaded the roosa master manual. My next problem is that I cannot even complete the 1st step in disassembling the pump. It says to pull out the pump drive shaft, should pull right out but i cannnot get it to bugde. Im afraid to use too much force in fear of breaking something...anyone ran into this issue or have suggestions?

The pump has to come all part to replace that plastic ring.

The reason why the shaft won't come out is because you have a vertical-mount pump and not a horizontal. Verical pumps have a retainer to keep the shaft from falling out. Horizontal pumps don't. Vertical pumps are designed to come off the engine with shaft staying in the pump (like used on 1010s, 2010s, 2520s, 3020s, 4020s, etc.). Horizontal pumps are designed to come off the engine with the shaft staying with the engine (like used in 1020s, 2020s, 350s, 450s, etc.).

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