JD 2010C track problems

[JB]

H'lo, I bought a JD 2010C 2 years ago and have been using it to build an access road in Maine. Moved a lot of rocks,gravel,ect with no problems till now, when I'm driving along the tracks made screeching sounds once in a while. To make a long story short found the track on the left side had cracks in every link and 3 links were about to totally break. I think this happened because I didn't adjust the tracks? (they are sloppy). I may have to get hydraulic adjusters,mine are pretty rusted too.

JB

[Lavoy]

2010's under 42,000 serial number use the same track links as a 1010. If you have a loader and/or are in rocky conditions, once there gets to be some wear in the links, it is not odd that you will start to have breakage. Tension really should no be a factor unless you have them too tight.
Lavoy

[Tigerhaze]

The bad news in Lavoy's response is that if you have a 2010 with S/N less than 42,000, then new track links are no longer available new. That is probably why Lavoy mentioned the 1010s- 1010s and 2010s less than S/N 42,000 use the same track lins, pins, and bushings. If you can find a set off of a 1010 with similar wear, you could use them as replacements.

If your 2010 is newer (higher) than 42,000 S/N then the track links, pins, and bushings are same as a 350 crawler and should be easy and relatively cheap to get an entire new set.

I just got a replacement aftermarket hydraulic adjuster from Lavoy- I am pretty impressed because the new ones have a recessed zerk and plug unlike the exposed ones on the stock adjusters.

[Gil]

If your tracks are too lose, the screeching sound you hear may be the edges of the rollers or the teeth of the sprocket ridding up on top of the rail edges. This will make a sound like a banshee and you should IMMEDIATELY stop and reverse direction a few feet to realign the track. Especially on a hillside (I seem to remember that Maine has those) the rollers and sprocket can walk right over and out of the track

[Tigerhaze]

I've learned that noise the hard way (several times)

After a while you get a feel for when the tracks are starting to slip off, even before the dreaded sound.

[Paul Buhler]

After a while you get a feel for when the tracks are starting to slip off, even before the dreaded sound.]

Around here we call it the pucker factor; and it's best to pay close attention and take corrective action or you might not like the consequences.

[JB]

Thanks everyone for the info;for grins I priced the track at CrawlerHeaven/Ed, he has NEW ones at $795 per side! I assume thats' not with pads... Lavoy, yes its' a loader and I've been going over a lot of rocks, so I guess that didn't help things

[JB]

Oops, jumping the gun a little bit. I have to find the serial numbers to determine what I need. The crawler is in Maine and I don't get up there too often but I will check next time..Does anyone know roughly what a complete track weighs? I'm looking at a whole track(s) because the pads are worn pretty thin too.

[Tigerhaze]

Yes, the new tracks would be the 350 rails for a post-42,000 S/N machine. You can't necessarily go by the serial number because it is possible a previous owner switched from the later sprockets to earlier or vice versa. You will need to verify what you have by measuring the pin and bushing diameters on the track links, unless you know your crawler has not been converted in the past. Alternately you can look at the part number on the sprocket as they typically aren't interchangeable between the two pin sizes.

If the rails are without pads, I think the pads were somewhere between $6 and $10 a piece ($240 to $400 a side) last time I checked, excluding the bolts and nuts.

My service manual doesn't list the weight of each link with pad, but I would guess 25 lbs per link- at 39 links that would be around 1,000 lbs a piece fo the complete track. Someone else can confirm how accurate that estimate is. I do know that dragging a complete track lifts the front end of my 8N off the ground, but that my Bobcat Model 630 can maneuver it without tipping so that estimate seems reasonable.

[Stretch]

Last time I talked to JD about pads for my dozer they were about $13 and change per pad.
My file is out in the barn but it seems to me that I paid about $2200 for new rails for my 2010. I'll check tomorrow when I'm out there. I know I bought new rails, 10 rollers, 2 idlers, 2 idler shafts, 2 top support rollers, and 2 top support idler shafts all at the same time.
I was going to put new pads on but decided to build up grousers instead.
I'm surprised you could get crazy Ed to respond, I gave up on him.

[JB]

Ed got back to me pretty quick, he also said my crawler should be 39 links, thought I counted 38. I'll check mine again next week. Tigerhaze, mind if I ask you how much the hydraulic adjusters were? Guess yours were not economical to rebuild?

JB
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JD 2010C loader

[Lavoy]

Last I checked, I thought pads were in the $12-$20 range depending on style.
Adjuster vary on serial number, a little under $300 -$360 I think depending on serial number.
You should have 39 links, yours has been short tracked to make up for wear. If I was you, I would get the rails now if you have any inkling at all to do so. They only have 4 sets of 39 link chains in, and the rail supply for 350's or that size link is sporadic at best now.
Lavoy