MC Oils

[preppypyro]

Hey guys and gals.

I have been looking around this site for an updated list of oils that a guy can put in these ol crawlers, but cant really find anything.

So, what weights and types of oils have you guys been using?

If this has been covered can someone please redirect me to that, as i have looked and looked and cant seem to find anything!

[mapaduke@yahoo.com]

A Friend of mine swears by using only the oils that the Manuel's say to use.But the Manuel also suggests to flush the engine and transmition with kerosene by running it briefly?I don't think I want to do it to the engine.The trans would be ok.You half to remember that at the time your tractor was new they wasn't anny detergent oils out there so flushing them was necessary to get the sludge out.I use 10w30 in engine and 80-90 in the trans and finals.I think my friend gets straight 30 weight at Tractor Supply if you want to go old school?
Its just what I like to use.Ron

[Swawpy]

Just an opinion but modern oils are light years ahead of anything available in the 50's. Additives, detergents, polymers...etc,etc. Unless you are in a extreme hot or cold location I would suggest any high quality multi-visc. I am no expert on the matter but I think nearly anything would be far superior than what they came with. I use delo 400 15w-40 in almost everything.

[preppypyro]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I have a friend who also swears by 15-40 in the whole thing.

My father was saying that he thought my uncle(who I had gotten this MC from after he passed away) ran synthetic oil in the engine and trans and finals so he could use it in the winter time. Anyone use synthetic?

Ill probably change it out here right away to 10-30 for the engine, maybe synthetic if the general consensus is that synthetic wont leak or harm anything!

[Swawpy]

Again, just my opinion...I can't see any harm in synthetics for the trans or finals- but can't see any advantage either. I have used redline syth gear oil in the past, just not in a crawler. At $8 dollar or so per quart just stick with regular 80-90 wt...save the high performance stuff for the high performance stuff!!

[mapaduke@yahoo.com]

I often wondered if using a thicker oil would help a Lowe oil perisher problem.I know it would be just a band aid for the inevitable rebuild but it would get you by until you could do it.

[preppypyro]

See I am thinking synthetics in the winter. Im not really sure how cold it gets where you guys are, but there is the occasional time or two I would like to plow a little snow with the MC, and find that its just too cold to move. Synthetic oils (in my mind anyways!) would help the flow of oil at those temperatures.


The best would be to leave the damn thing alone in the winter though, I KNOW that, but my uncle that passed away used it all the time to skid logs out of the bush with, and in his memory I want the good ol MC to be used, not to be used as a lawn ornament!

Thanks again for the discussion and knowledge fellas!

[akjayjay]

I was always told to run non-detergent in the older machines because that's what they used for so many years. And the reason being is that the engine has a build up of sludge in it, and if you go putting detergent in it, it will loosen all that sludge up and potentially hurt the engine. But if you do a rebuild and clean it out it would be alright to run detergent oil. Jason

[Swawpy]

The sludge is why older manuals recommend running kerosene briefly when you change the oils. Loosens, stirs up, and cleans things out before fresh oil. I have gotten older equip good and hot, drained eng oil, pour diesel through while the drain plug is out and flush a bit (checking to see what is being flushed. Refilled with any cheap oil with a quart of diesel and let run awhile, drain overnight, 15w-40 back in and move on. Save the diesel/oil mix for a bonfire when your done pushing all that snow.

[CELSESSER]

I found that Mine keeps better oil pressure when hot with straight 30 weight than with multi-visc. oil. I never have a problem with cold weather starting on the 30 weight.
Chuck

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

In my 1950 M (wheel tractor) and 1958 420C I use Shell Rotella-T 15w40 in the engines and 85w90 in the transmissions and final drives. The direction reverser on the 420c gets Hygard, as do the hydraulic systems on both.

I use some very old NOS roller lube on the 420c, but Deere Corn Head grease would be my choice if I didn't happen to have several gallons of roller lube left over from the old days.

The Rotella-T is on hand for the newer diesel tractors, as is the Hygard. The oil pressure is normal on both the old Deeres, even in the peak of summer, so I see no reason to change it out. The 15w40 does help winter starting, as one would have to change straight 30 out.

In any case, the old Deeres don't get that much use, so there's only one oil change per year in the spring.

Later!

Stan

[Lu47Dan]

Stan, thanks! I have several 5 gallon pails of 15-40 setting in the storage building that I can use in the engine and about two cases of Royal Purple gear oil also.
Since I am doing a complete ground up rebuild on the 420, I was wondering if I could run the 15-40 in the engine. Should I break it in on the 15-40 or use 30wt to break it in and then switch to the 15-40?
Dan.

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Lighter oil is better for break-in. There was once a 10wt break-in specific oil. Long gone now, though.

The main thing about breaking-in is don't go too hard at anything for a while, and vary the engine speed somewhat as well.

I'd think that the 15w40 would work fine. Run it for several hours, then drain and check for filings. Change the filter element and check it for filings as well. If something isn't right in there, you'll see lots of evidence.

Later!

Stan