Who has regrousered their track shoes?

[Ray III]

I am trying to find grouser bar stock for my 420. I looked at dura-tuff.com but the smallest they sell is 5/8" thick at the base. Really looking for something around 3/8" or 1/2" at most and one inch high. Does this size exist?

The taper is one thing but my biggest concern is I do not want it to ever wear out for the remaining life of the chains.

[Tigerhaze]

Hi Ray-

This thread may help-scroll towards the bottom for supplier suggestions:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... +bar+stock

Also look towards the middle of this thread:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... +bar+stock

If nothing else, the guys in these threads may have found some more places since then that have grouser stock.

[Tiny Crawler]

I have done this before for a CAT 977 loader, just purchased 1x bar stock and welded on work great.

[Ray III]

Maybe the 5/8" is the way to go after all, this website has a size chart that you can find the 420 on:

http://www.rfbutler.com/grouser-bar-size-chart.htm

Go here, and it shows the recommended size is 5/8" at the base and 1" high, about identical to the smallest Dura-Tuff.

Gonna try to find something about that thickness to set on my grousers and make sure it won't look weird. Then the next question will be finding someone that sells the stuff...

I talked to my dad and he said even if I weld on mild steel bar stock, they will not wear out in my lifetime on such a small machine.

[Paul Buhler]

Gonna try to find something about that thickness to set on my grousers and make sure it won't look weird. Then the next question will be finding someone that sells the stuff...

I talked to my dad and he said even if I weld on mild steel bar stock, they will not wear out in my lifetime on such a small machine.

I have bought grouser stock through our local steel yard (Mac Steel in Rutland, VT) in the past - they can get it in if not stocked (maybe John Deere or other crawler dealer would have it too). I then had it cut to two or three inch lengths at a local spring shop to weld on as caulks using a two /one pattern on my snow shoes. I alternated the pattern each time I did it to keep the grousers built up. It was easier and neater to have them cut than to torch them - cooler too.
To weld on, I would raise the whole dozer so the tracks could spin, and worked horizontally at the front and rear using 7018 rod (I think 5/32" for a 450; probably 1/8 for a 420) tack welding one side to two pads at each corner of the tractor. By having the tracks raised, I would run the machine to spin the tracks to the next batch. Those tacked at the rear present the other face when they reach the front, and vis-versa. Continue until all the caulks are tacked on both sides. Use a good tack so that when you are ready to completely weld, you can go at it and the caulk weld won't distort due to the heat. Work slowly getting good penetration on both pieces and sides or you may find them falling off as you drive out of the shop.

Caulk stock is hardened and tends to wear cleanly; mild steel will peen, tear and develop sharp edges sort of like a splitting wedge which is tricky to work around.
Since it will take about a day's time and cost to do the welding and when you factor in the material costs as well, I'd hold off and get grouser stock sized to your machine, and do the job once. It will hold up a long time, as your father says.

Hope this helps you with your decision. Paul

[Ray III]

I have bought grouser stock through our local steel yard (Mac Steel in Rutland, VT) in the past - they can get it in if not stocked (maybe John Deere or other crawler dealer would have it too). I then had it cut to two or three inch lengths at a local spring shop to weld on as caulks using a two /one pattern on my snow shoes. I alternated the pattern each time I did it to keep the grousers built up. It was easier and neater to have them cut than to torch them - cooler too.
To weld on, I would raise the whole dozer so the tracks could spin, and worked horizontally at the front and rear using 7018 rod (I think 5/32" for a 450; probably 1/8 for a 420) tack welding one side to two pads at each corner of the tractor. By having the tracks raised, I would run the machine to spin the tracks to the next batch. Those tacked at the rear present the other face when they reach the front, and vis-versa. Continue until all the caulks are tacked on both sides. Use a good tack so that when you are ready to completely weld, you can go at it and the caulk weld won't distort due to the heat. Work slowly getting good penetration on both pieces and sides or you may find them falling off as you drive out of the shop.

Caulk stock is hardened and tends to wear cleanly; mild steel will peen, tear and develop sharp edges sort of like a splitting wedge which is tricky to work around.
Since it will take about a day's time and cost to do the welding and when you factor in the material costs as well, I'd hold off and get grouser stock sized to your machine, and do the job once. It will hold up a long time, as your father says.

Hope this helps you with your decision. Paul

Thanks, I have already done the same thing with getting it off the ground and was going to weld them at the front and back like you said.

I found a bit of wood 5/8" thick and tried it on top of a grouser and the only way that size would work is if the thing was worn completely down to the shoe. Not going to buy that.

I guess I will go to the steel yard and see what they got. If they have nothing of the sort small enough, is cold rolled steel a good alternative?

Waiting on parts to fix the front idlers first since I have to put the tracks back on to deal with the grousers so this is not something I want to get done tomorrow. I hope Lavoy isn't at one of those auctions where he won't be back for 2 weeks.

[Paul Buhler]

Look around for your options; Google "grouser stock" I found the site already mentioned without much effort. I bet there is smaller stuff that will meet your needs. Good luck. Paul

[pop pop]

i also looked at the bars available and found the 5/8 wide base.
there was no smaller stuff ..so i am using hot-rolled steel flatbar, 3/8x1".. putting this right onto the worn down bar , and by FAR, much cheaper and if i ever have a problem , i'll just weld it up ,,, also, i see guys using rebar.