1010c hard atarting

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:15 pm

My. new to me, diesel crawler is a bear to start.
I have diesel cars and truck which, to varying degreesl are all easy starters. The JD is not
The former owner was no help as far as history but I suspect his maintenence was poor and he always used ether [yikes] to help it start.
What should be the order of diagnostics to sort out the problem?
Does the IP need to be timed?
Should the injectors be cleaned balanced and pop tested?
When it does start it runs rough and blow white/grey smoke till it is warm.
Any help on this?

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:14 pm

The key components to starting a 1010 diesel (as well as a 2010 diesel since they are both indirect injection engines) is a good battery, fresh starter, and working glow plugs. They will be hard starters if they don't turn over quickly and the glow plugs don't work. In cold weather it also helps them to prime them (if fuel primer is installed).

If not getting adequate fuel, I would start with checking inlet screens and vents, sediment bowl, and fuel filters for restrictions.

If those components are not up to snuff, they will be hard starters. Do not use ether; if you decide to anyhow then use it very sparingly as it is easy to damage these engines with ether. If the engines are worn out, they will also start hard but then run well when warm.

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:15 pm

Are you using the glow plugs? Make sure they are functional and connected.

Should be activated by turning the key switch backwards for 30 seconds or so and then proceed to start.

The 1010 and 2010 diesel engine in my opinion are very poor even at their best. I spent alot of money on my 2010 engine, new liner plate, pistons, rebuilt injections and rebuilt injection pump and does not start that well either, always needs the glow plugs. My engine is probably not broken in yet (less than 5 hours on it) so it might improve. Have tried adjusting the time as well and have it running as good as it gets.

The engines in the 350's and 450's were a huge improvement.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:57 pm

I have been using the glow plug function with the key but don't know if they are working. Is there a way to check?
There is a push/pull knob next to the ig switch. Would that be a primer?
On the car forums I follow they talk about using wd40 instead of ether.
Anyone ever tried it?
Thanks for all the tips.

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:04 pm

1010,2010 must have all four good glow plugs and you must glow to get some heat going before cranking,most won't even pop without glowing.
on the first start of the day,my 1010 needs glowing in the heat of summer to start well.
a couple of pumps to the primer gets fuel ready to burn as well

once the engine starts,go back to glowing again until engine runs smoothly without skipping and smoking,this is a factory procedure for heating up the pre-chambers in the engine.

couple pumps to prime,glow for 30 sec.,crank until it's running,go back to glow until it runs smooth.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:14 pm

if you have the org. switch[ if not see below] turn it to the left ccw.to preheat pull the wire off of #4 and see if you have 12 volts do you have an ohm meter? pull all wires off of preheaters check each plug and see if you have any reading if none then they are dead if you dont have a meter you can touch the wire to each plug one at a time with the switch turned left and see if you get any spark if you do then that plug is working there are other posts that give the ohms the knob you speak of should be a light switch on a 2010 the primer pump is on the dash left side look at your intake manifold underside is there a hose or steel line? or is there a 1/8 inch pipe plug? if none look on the top of man and see if there is a line that goes to both ends of the manifold that is where the primer is at and squirts in to the head [ if you have a standard universal key switch car style then you need to add a old school push button starter switch for the preheaters on one of mine some had gone one step better and put a 60s ford starter solenoid after the push button switch so the peheater load was not on the cheapie push button]

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:52 am

The 1010 and 2010 were never designed to be started without glowplugging, period, regardless of temp. They have to be heated on an 80 degree day or they will not start. BUT, that being said, our 1010 will start reliably well into the teens without the tank heater plugged in if necessary. I have started a friends 1010 at 3 above one time with no problem. You just have to preheat and prime if it has one.
Check all 4 of your glow plugs and replace any that are not working, you will not believe the difference.
It is still possible that you have a timing or other issue, but work on the glow plugs first.
Lavoy

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:18 am

Jdemaris had previously mentioned that a standard resistance test with a multimeter will not always show that a glow plug is bad- I would suggest reading towards the end of the page of the thread below when you get ready to test them.

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... +plug+test

Also let us know if you need more information about the fuel primer- we had several very good discussions about that as well.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:28 am

Well, I put a battery charger on all morning after running the bat low while trying to start.
Just now went out to give the old girl another chance. Charger read battery was topped up.
I turned the key to glow and watched the battery charger, which was still hooked up, show a big load on the battery so I figured I at least has some glowplug function.
I then waited a full 90 seconds on glow before starting and lo and behold after a few cranks, it fired at which point I gave it a couple of primer pumps and it roared away! Yippee.
It does seems to be a bit smoky but I did not run it long enough to warm up fully so maybe it still not fully burning all fuel.
As I said, the former owner was either a complete no nothing, very lazy or both; he did not use the GP's and depended on ether for all starting issues.
Thanks to all for the glowplugging persistence

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 2:12 pm

If even one of the glow plugs is bad, it will still start, but will tend to smoke some. They will have a tendancy to smoke a little bit after start up til there gets to be enough heat for them to fire evenly. If you glow plug while it is running, they will smooth out faster.
Lavoy

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:30 pm

I just went out and glowed it for 60 secs, cranked it with no batt charger on and it turned over slower and longer but it finally fired; I primed it once and it ran with clouds of grey/white smoke . I then ran it till the temp guage was up about 1/3 - 1/2 way to the N symbol and the whole time it smoked bluish black a lot and would belch huge amounts of black
smoke when under load. Is this normal smoke?
If not, what are the possible causes and remedies

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 4:18 pm

Blue smoke is typically oil, black is typically fuel. If the crawler runs uneven, it could be injector or injector pump issues, which would also affect starting.
Lavoy

mini kahuna · Post by **mini kahuna** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:52 pm

I would put four new glow plugs in,as Lavoy said one bad plug will make it hard to get going.
are you glowing after it begins to run....this will get the engine running clean within 30 sec. or so if everything is right and glow plugs are strong.

indirect injection engines must have an outside source of heat to heat the precombustion chamber,without this heat to get things going they will not start.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:12 pm

Lavoy wrote:Blue smoke is typically oil, black is typically fuel. If the crawler runs uneven, it could be injector or injector pump issues, which would also affect starting.
Lavoy

I am thinking it is burning oil; once I do get it started and warmed up, whenever I load it and the governor kicks in a large cloud of blue blows out.
If it is burning oil, what are the potential causes and depending on the problem, is there any troubleshooting I can do to try and determine what it is?

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:59 am

Are you using the glow plugs? If not, they will almost never start. Check all 4 glow plugs, make sure they all work.
Pretty much all diesel 1010's smoke til they warm up, just a function of a pre-cup engine.
Lavoy

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