Well it is mostly together. I have run out of money and need about $200 more to get hoses and some other stuff. Right now the twist cylinder is on but dry from factory (still plugged). I may fill it with oil just to hold the blade in one position. I also need to put a rubber flap from top of blade back over the cylinder. I used it the other day and had a lot of dirt spilling over and getting in joints that dont need dirt in them.
I have been toying with the idea of hooking up some pipe and a 90 degree ball valve so I could open the valve, angle the blade, close the valve and do my work?
Trying to sell an old furnace and a cast iron radiator, no one is busting my door down for them so it may be awhile before I can finish plumbing it.
Click on pictures for larger image
My 6 way #2
- Willyr
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 695
- Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:03 am
- Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)
My 6 way #2
Last edited by Willyr on Sat Jul 21, 2012 5:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
All help is greatly appreciated.
Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:25 pm
- Location: Allegany, Oregon
Hi Willyr,
I like to use hose wrap anywhere they can't be clamped down or need slack to allow for joint movement.
I use ball valves to shut off flow to thumb cylinder when using grapples. Works good, but I remove the handles so they can't be turned by brush or limbs.
I like to use hose wrap anywhere they can't be clamped down or need slack to allow for joint movement.
I use ball valves to shut off flow to thumb cylinder when using grapples. Works good, but I remove the handles so they can't be turned by brush or limbs.
If it's worth doin', it's worth doin' right.
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