1010 crawler

Dewey Zehr · Post by **Dewey Zehr** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:22 pm

I have a 1010 crawler i can not make run. I have rebuilt the carb, and installed a new manifold kit(no gas makes it to the plugs).any help would be great,thanx in advance.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:25 pm

Are you sure adequate quantities of fuel are getting to the carb? I would think there are a number of locations prior to the carb that could be plugged and cause fuel starvation at the carb. it's probably not an issue but just a thought.

Dewey Zehr · Post by **Dewey Zehr** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:27 am

Thanx for the response.Yes i did check for blockage and also flushed the tank.gas makes it to the bowl and starts up the intake (after alot of cranking) its almost like it's something other than the carb.I say that only because i've been through the carb so many times.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:14 am

Hi: Some thoughts: Have you checked compression? Have you removed the valve cover to see if the valve train is functioning properly? Some one suggested pulling a plug and holding a barbeque lighter near the hole to see if any gas fumes are making it to the cylinder; it will flare off if there are - keep your hands and face out of the way. This will help narrow your search.
Good luck.

H-D · Post by **H-D** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:46 pm

A couple of tablespoons of motor oil in each cylinder won't go amiss either.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:17 pm

Barring some large mechanical issue, it is vitually impossible for air at least not to get to the cylinders. If no fuel is mixed in, it is a carb or fuel flow issue.
Lavoy

CELSESSER · Post by **CELSESSER** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:43 pm

Pull a spark plug and ground it while someone cranks it to check for spark. If no spark check out that issue. If you have spark, shoot a teaspoonfull of gas in the sparkplug hole and put the plug in and try starting. If it fires well on the fueled cylinder several times then you are not getting fuel. If it backfires or does other odd firing check your timing or valvetrain.

Did it run before the carb work and or did you do anything else like points also? What is the history of the engine?

Chuck

Dewey Zehr · Post by **Dewey Zehr** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 7:31 am

the engine ran like a dream.The problem started when i ran it out of gas,thinking it was dirt ect.... I cleaned the bowl,carb and inline filter several times.The crawler would start and run,but as soon as the temp.of the engine would come up to about 170 (not sure if gauge is correct)it would die.eventually wound'nt start at all so i replaced the coil and the resister thinking there might be a breakdown,I get spark so i bought a carb kit and had a mechanic friend rebuild it.any and all input is greatly appreciated.thanx!

Dewey Zehr · Post by **Dewey Zehr** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:52 am

I have spark so i put a grill lighter over the cylinder and it's getting gas fumes (flare off) I then put 2 table spoons of oil in each cylinder. After some cranking it puffed smoke and fired a couple of times . The spark didn't seem that strong to me and it has new plugs. The ignition system has been switched by a previous owner to a chrysler ignition system.
relly don't know about that stuff or how to check timing without it running may be way off here I'm just fising for ideas i can try .thank you for your input.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:13 am

when you say changed to chrysler what was changed? to check the timing bring the flywheel to the timing mark and look in the dist. and see if the points open just as you hit the mark and check the point gap if you havent

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:39 pm

Dewey Zehr wrote: I then put 2 table spoons of oil in each cylinder. After some cranking it puffed smoke and fired a couple of times

Have you checked compression for each cylinder? Usually having it start after putting oil in cylinders for a gas engine is a sign that piston rings are worn out.

H-D · Post by **H-D** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:55 pm

I like to let an engine that has 'rested' a long spell sit with Marvel Mystery Oil in its cylinders a week or so (helps free piston rings). I also doubt P.O.s work, so I'm not above making a reference mark between distributor & block. & then moving the distributor a mite while a helper cranks. Is this a Chrysler electronic ignition? I've had grief with incorrect air gaps between the pick-up & reluctor before (years ago). Glad the oil sealed her enough to get some pops!

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:28 pm

I have very serious reservations as to some sort of Chrysler ignition system installed in a 1010. First thing I would do it throw it away, whatever it is and start with factory components.
Lavoy

Dewey Zehr · Post by **Dewey Zehr** » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:58 am

yes it is a chrysler electronic ignition system.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:41 am

Then as I stated previously, the first thing I would do is throw it away and replace with factory components.
Lavoy

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