Winterizing

[63DH8]

It's about that time of year... I have to ask, what do you guys do to winterize your tractors. Do you drain and leave the cooling system empty, or use anti-freeze? What type of anti-freeze do you recommend if you use anti-freeze? How about other items like the battery? Do you remove it and store it in the garage? Do you place a trickle charge on it? Do you leave it in the tractor? Am I missing anything?

420C Deere

[JD440ICD2006]

Antifreeze will last several years under most conditions. I never drain mine for the winter, I just change it every several years.
If it is a diesel, you need to check the recomendations for additves that reduce cavitation.
One mistake is to use tap water instead of distilled water. Guys will tell you that they have used tap water for years, but it for sure adds to long term issues such as scale and deposit build up that reduce the flow.

[Paul Buhler]

I do an oil change in the fall so that the combustion acids that build up over the summer ( due to worn rings) don't sit in the pan over the mostly inactive winter. I add a fuel stabilizer to my fuel whenever I refuel so I have one less thing to worry about when I need to get the machine running. I grease my rolls and idlers with cornhead grease, clean off the undercarriage daily so that the dirt doesn't freeze overnight around the support idler, sprockets, etc. and then park the dozer up on planks so that the grousers don't freeze into the ground.
I park my machine within 100' of the garage so that I can charge the battery if needed, but mine has been holding up well (I keep the terminals greased and tight). I cover the tractor with an inexpensive tarp and bungies, and since it has a canopy, the wind blows through keeping it dry with out having the snow or forest detritus (like that word?) build up on it. As far as the antifreeze goes, I just use a good green 50/50 blend and keep it about 2"-3" below the filler ( it expands). I haven't changed it completely in three years, and it still tests out well for acids and low temps. I do look at my hydraulic oil to see if it's milky and if so, I change it (water may separate out and freeze in the pump or pistons causing an expensive winter repair problem). I've had to change it once once since I first bought this machine three years ago - it came milky. Paul

[Tigerhaze]

I think Paul has a really good summary there.

The only thing you may want to think about, if you have the dry mechanical steering clutches and don't plan to run the machine over the winter, is propping back the steering clutch levers. This is a controversial practice so read below if you plan to try it.

I live in the Midwest where we have plenty of humidity and big warmups for a day or two between long periods of freezing. Thus humidity generated after melting of snow can sometimes condense on the steering clutches at night and cause them to "stick" when the machine has sat for a period of time. Since I leave my machine parked outside (although tarped), I prop the steering clutch levers back and have had minimal problems with sticking than I had previously.

The downside is that this practice could wear out springs in the pressure plate. So far I haven't had an issue with that (knock on wood) but I do have one clutch out of adjustment which may have been influenced by this practice. Thus a word of caution if you try this.

The best thing is to run the machine at least monthly and it should minimize the sticking issue.

[Afzimm]

Some good tips here in getting your machine ready for winter.
I am installing a tank heater on my 2010 so I may just drain and refill with new 50/50 antifreeze while I have hoses off and the drain plug out.
I havent checked my hydraulic oil but I will after reading this about it getting milky. Wouldn't be good to find out next spring that it had water in it. I like the idea of parking the machine on planks to keep it from freezing to the ground. My engine oil only has about 10 hours on it so I hadn't planned on changing it. It has Rotella 15-40 in it now. Will that be a problem for winter starting? Will the tank heater help at all in warming the oil? Al

[JD440ICD2006]

I speak from basic engine knowledge, I do not know the 2010 engines.
I believe you need a dip stick type oil heater to get the oil temp up. The water heater is only going to warm the upper parts of the engine where the water jackets are located. If it was on long enough, it may eventually warm the block some but not enough to warm the oil.
15W40 should be fine, especially if you put an oil warmer in it at very cold temps. That oil will be 15W at the cold end, then thickens to 40W when coming up to engine operating temps. Amazing stuff isn't it?