Starter removal

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:09 pm

I have had the starter off my gasser and was able to reach underneath to get to the lower mounting bolt. It lifted out from the top
The starter on the diesel is longer and the fuel strainers are in the way.
What is the trick to reach the lower bolt. Is it accessed from below with the belly pan off?
Does it come out the same way?

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:48 pm

If like a 2010 diesel crawler (sounds like it is), I removed the bolts holding the fuel filter head assembly to the block without disconnecting the fuel lines. On my 2010, the flexible lines then allow the head assembly to be moved out of the way to access the starter bolt without opening the fuel system to air. You shouldn't need to remove the belly pan- the starter will then come out and up between the block and the side frame.

Hope this helps.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:24 pm

If the weather warms up I will give it a try
I don't remember removing the belly pan on my gasser.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:42 pm

Sorry I typed too quick yesterday- I meant to say that you should NOT need to remove the belly pan. I edited my previous post accordingly

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 4:53 pm

Well I dropped the belly pan today

It seems like it is necessary to even see where the lower bolt is
let alone unhook the battery cable and switch cable to get to the bolt
plus I have hydro hoses running around all over underneath that get in the way.
I stopped there because when I tried to start it just for kicks ,after cleaning and tightening the battery cables, it turned over so I buttoned the pan back up, started it, then shut it down in gear so the flywheel and starter gear would random stop instead of shutting down in neutral and have the starter gear hit the usual wear spot on the flywheel.
I will see if it worked tomorrow

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:59 pm

2010 has a hole in the frame to get to that bolt ( you might think about doing a mod. to yours) and yes on diesel you have to take filters lose or off to get the starter out unless you have a case 580C filter on it like i do its so mucher nicer

waterman28 · Post by **waterman28** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:44 am

My 1010 Diesel has a factory machined slot in the frame to get to the bottom bolt and the filters need to be moved also

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:56 am

I forgot to mention the access hole- glad others mentioned it.

Also those diesel starters are HEAVY- it is pretty akward getting them out because you have to fit your arms between the frame and block AND lift that heavy starter out and up. I didn't do this last time, but might be wise to slip a thin strap or something around the starter to help lift it out.

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:24 pm

waterman28 wrote:My 1010 Diesel has a slot in the frame to get to the bottom bolt and the filters need to be moved also

Surprise

What I took to be only a mounting bracket for the engine covers turned out to also cover an access hole in the frame that someone had conveniently cut.
I still have to get to the battery and switch leads which might require the belly pan to come back down if I can't get at them from above

JDcrawlers Messageboard

Starter removal

Starter removal

1010 Starter

Re: 1010 Starter

Who is online