1010 Diesel engine rebuild

[Jason Z in MO]

I decided to start a new thread to avoid those massively oversized pictures I posted on the earlier posting.

Jdemaris, thanks for the tip on 2010 gas being the same deck as the 1010 diesel, I’m still looking.

If I do find a good deck should I be sure to get the pistons from the same deck?

If I go with a new deck and my pistons still measure within tolerance would they be safe to run? New ones from Deere are $200 each and they no longer have the .020” oversize.

Concerning the head rebuild. Any advice on removing the turbulence chambers? I'm concerned about getting the lower chambers out.

[jdemaris]

If I do find a good deck should I be sure to get the pistons from the same deck?

No, it's not an important issue. Not unless the pistons with the deck are good, and your old pistons are not.

There are three important areas. The piston thrush-face clearance, the piston pin fit, and the piston-ring grooves. On the last three "10" series I worked on, the only highly worn areas were the piston-ring grooves. Way too much side clearance. So, I fixed the old-fashioned way. I re-cut the grooves oversize and installed Hastings repair shims. That used to be standard practice. But with new parts being reasonably priced and machine shop costs high - for many engines it makes more sense to just buy new pistons. Not always true with a 1010 or 2020 though - due to scarcity of parts and very high prices.

If you find the skirt clearance to be OK, and piston pin fit OK, but ring side clearance too much (very critical) - don't hesitate to use repair shims. The last engine I did was a 1010. The shims cost me $15 and the machine work cost me $10 per piston - i.e. $55 total.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTips/ ... rooves.htm

[jtrichard]

and if your pistons are a little loose in the cyl. you can have them knurled(if you can find an old school machinist) just like the ring shims it works great

[Jason Z in MO]

Thank you so much for the information. I should have time this weekend to pull the block and remove the pistons. I suspect the piston in the cylinder with the deep scoring probably had ring groove issues. But it doesn't look like finding used pistons will be a problem.

I'll let you know what I find.

Thank you!

[Jason Z in MO]

The head went off for rebuld. For far, I need exhaust valve guides and a couple exhaust valves.

I'm planning to pull the engine today. Stripped off the radiator, water pump, and hydraulic pump and found this big bolt on the front cover. Looks like there is a nut welded to the cover which the bolt threads into and had a jam nut. I should have cleaned it up with a wire brush before I took the picture. I looked in the parts and service manual and can't find any reference. It appears to line up with the camshaft.

I wouldn't be surprised if this engine was not original to this 1010 diesel.

Any ideas?

[Jason Z in MO]

I think you guys warned me these little crawlers are expensive!!!!

The bolt I showed in the picture does act as a thrust bearing for the camshaft. Doesn't seem to be doing anything the thrust plate was still in place. On to the real issues...

The head needs exhaust guides, one seat and 2 intake valves. No problem here.

The #1 and #2 pistons had broken oil control rings which caused the cylinder wall damage. The pistons are worn bad in the ring grooves and skirts. I found good used pistons for $25 each, guaranteed. I haven't ordered them yet but I did bite the bullet on the cylinder sleeve deck and bought it last week from Deere, got 10% off for buying it last week during a sale. What a bargain!

The crank was turned .020" under on both rods and mains. There is scaring on a couple of rod and main journals which will require a regrind. .030" under should do it. Cam shaft has a little wear but useable.

The big problem, the block is cracked in two places from water jacket around the sleeves, through the sleeve packings down to the mains. I haven't found a block yet. Has anyone had any luck brazing these?

I think a crack in the webbing is common but is isolated to the water jacket area. I remember reading some will braze those up and some will just let it go.

Any suggestions on this cast iron sinking ship?

[Tigerhaze]

The big problem, the block is cracked in two places from water jacket around the sleeves, through the sleeve packings down to the mains. I haven't found a block yet. Has anyone had any luck brazing these?

Hi Jason, did you see this parts crawler for a 1010 diesel block? It's not terribly far away from you.

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=6905

[Jason Z in MO]

I did look on the for sale page but obviously I overlooked it or I'm getting lazy. Both I'm sure.

I will be in Davenport in a few weeks for the gathering of the green. Would be a perfect time to run up to WI. I sent the guy a msg, we will see where this lead takes me!

thanks for keeping an eye out.

[Jason Z in MO]

Can anyone identify the block casting of T16162?

I found a diesel engine tagged as a 1010W but not sure of the original application. It has a casting number of T16162. Actually there is a * after the T so it would be T*16162.

Any idea if this is the same casting as T17513 which is my original application?

[Jason Z in MO]

I found that T16162 is a 2010 diesel block.

Will this block fit an bolt up in a 1010 with 1010 diesel components?

[jtrichard]

they used the same casting some times for both the 1010 and 2010..... the bores are different for the sleeves the t17513 is also a 2010 block it was bored bigger for the 2010..... if you can you need to check the bore size where the bottom of the sleeves go and make sure that its not a gas block gas only has 3 mains diesel has 5.... i have been told that the wheel tractor 2010 has a different casting# i have one out of a wheel and they look the same i have yet to check the numbers..... look at bingles posts he has a 1010 and i found him a 2010 diesel engine out of a wheel and he put it in the 1010 crawler there are early castings that look a lot different but still bolt up bingles has both heads are the same 1010 to 2010 cranks are same ....even rods are same gas/diesel/1010/2010.... oil pan bolt holes are same only thing i can figure that is different is bore size and mains also very early had different main bearings