Head bolts stuck on 440ICD

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:53 pm

Help!

We're trying to break the head bolts loose on my 440ICD. So far using a 3/4" and then a 1" impact hasn't worked. In fact its snapped the sockets that have been tried so far. Unfortunately the engine is not on the crawler anymore so we're having a tough time finding a way to lock the motor down to use a long cheater bar with a wrench.

Any of you out there have a "been there done that" sort of answer?!

Thanks,

Brad

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:09 pm

Use an impact wrench, the vibration will do a lot to loosen the bolts. If you are applying that much torque already, you can't hurt anything, and I would be inclined to put in new head bolts.
Lavoy

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:53 pm

Lavoy wrote:Use an impact wrench, the vibration will do a lot to loosen the bolts. If you are applying that much torque already, you can't hurt anything, and I would be inclined to put in new head bolts.
Lavoy

The impact wrench has already been tried. Tried both a 3/4" and then a 1" impact. All we did was break the sockets.

Once they are removed I'll definitely replace the studs!

Brad

Post by **JD40c** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:45 pm

Using impact sockets? Or regular hand tool sockets? Impact sockets are MUCH stronger.

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 4:22 am

JD40c wrote:Using impact sockets? Or regular hand tool sockets? Impact sockets are MUCH stronger.

Mike said he broke an impact socket plus some regular ones. That kinda surprised me but stranger things have happened. Right now we're trying to figure out a way to strap the engine to something so it can't turn and then use a long cheater bar. We'll see......

Thanks,

Brad

country53 · Post by **country53** » Thu Apr 06, 2006 12:56 pm

If the bolts are just tight and not rusted and if you are going to replace them anyway. I would torch the heads off of the bolts lift the cylinder head off and You should be able to take the bolts out by hand because they no longer have any tension on them.

lastchancegarage · Post by **lastchancegarage** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:28 am

Brad,
Thay almost sound like stretch bolts. If you can cargo strap a stiff bar/pipe/angle iron along side the block and lay the block/bar assy on its side with the bar on the floor, you can then slide an extension over a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar and push down towards the floor. You might need someone to stabalize the block while you put one foot on the strapped bar while you loosen with the other one. Once you break the stretch torque they should loosen up quickly. If they are solidly rusted in, you'll probably snap the heads off applying pressure like this. That might not be a bad thing. One other note, use six point sockets only. Hope this helps.

Scott

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:13 pm

Thanks for all the replies. We're going to try laying the engine down with a long pipe strapped to it to keep it from moving and then a long cheater bar with a breaker bar/socket.

Can't use a 6-point socket on a 12-point bolt head!

If this next attempt doesn't work then we'll likely torch the heads off and proceed from there.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Brad

lastchancegarage · Post by **lastchancegarage** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:19 pm

Sorry about that Brad.

I've not had to tear into this engine yet so I assumed 1959...6 point head bolts.

Hey, 220, 221 whatever it takes. Hope that does the trick for you. It's definitely more of a challenge out of the frame. Good luck.

Scott

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Apr 07, 2006 10:55 pm

Brad,
A local tool supplier here has 12 point impact sockets, maybe you can find one there. If not, let me know, I can get you some.
Lavoy

shinnery · Post by **shinnery** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:56 pm

Inquiring minds need to know, did you ever get it apart and how?
Bryce

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:29 pm

shinnery wrote:Inquiring minds need to know, did you ever get it apart and how?
Bryce

Used the suggested method of laying the engine on it side and strapping it to a trailer. Then used a good impact 12 point socket with a really long cheater/breaker bar. Even then the first day only two came out. More effort the second day finally broke them loose.

Needless to say those bolts are going to be replace!

Brad

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:49 pm

Brad,
This whole thing is really odd, there really should have been no way for them to get that stuck. I would definitely chuck the bolts, but I am wondering if you should run a good bottoming tap in all of the head bolt holes in the block.
Lavoy

BKahler · Post by **BKahler** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 5:51 pm

Lavoy wrote:Brad,
This whole thing is really odd, there really should have been no way for them to get that stuck. I would definitely chuck the bolts, but I am wondering if you should run a good bottoming tap in all of the head bolt holes in the block.
Lavoy

Lavoy, I as rather surprised myself. But considering the age and the unknown people that have worked on it before nothing surprises me.

I always clean out tapped holes as a rule when rebuilding an engine. Makes a huge difference in torque values.

Brad

PS, the check is finally in the mail. I'm the worlds worst procrastinator!

lastchancegarage · Post by **lastchancegarage** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 5:41 am

Brad,
Glad to hear things worked out. Keep us posted on the progress. If you get a chance, maybe you could post a few pics. It'll be nice when I'm done with the landscaping to tear mine down. I'm hoping the pressure pot I'm building will speed up the blasting part of the project. Good luck on your resto.

Scott

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