1010 gas need engine, what combine models and engines?
1010 gas need engine, what combine models and engines?
Well, my 1010 gas engine finally bit the dust yesterday. It's been smoking and using a lot of oil for some time but finally started knocking and is in dire need of replacement. I've seen there are a couple old combines and other machines that have engines that bolt right up to this dozer and might be a better choice than rebuilding this engine. Along with older combines like that around here go for next to nothing so would be cheap to do if I can find one that will work.
These are helpful threads to start with, but is focused on 2010 as well as 1010 crawler-compatible engines.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ht=combine
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
My two cents, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
What says any combine engine you buy is any different than the engine you have now? What if the combine engine you buy is just like yours was 20 minutes before it started knocking?
My point is, you have a used engine, why buy another one that is unknown. Rebuild the engine you have, than you know what you have, and it should last you for a long, long time.
I know I sound pessimistic, but a so called "good" used engine is going to be at least half the cost of a rebuild, and it is just as old as the engine you have, and while normally lower hour, a combine engine sits for long periods of time.
Lavoy
What says any combine engine you buy is any different than the engine you have now? What if the combine engine you buy is just like yours was 20 minutes before it started knocking?
My point is, you have a used engine, why buy another one that is unknown. Rebuild the engine you have, than you know what you have, and it should last you for a long, long time.
I know I sound pessimistic, but a so called "good" used engine is going to be at least half the cost of a rebuild, and it is just as old as the engine you have, and while normally lower hour, a combine engine sits for long periods of time.
Lavoy
A valid point but . . . I've come across many combine/power units that saw very little use and abuse as compared to those in crawlers and wheel tractors. As I see it the chances of a good used engine are better with the combine/power units. As to price? I came across two last summer - running - for $300 each.Lavoy wrote:My two cents, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
What says any combine engine you buy is any different than the engine you have now?
If my 1010/2010 engine needed a simple rebuild - I would not buy a used engine. I'd fix it instead. By "simple" though, I mean NOT needing a new sleeve deck, head , crank, or block. If it did? I'd jump at the chance of buying a $300 combiine engine I could hear run and it held good hot oil pressure.
Last year I did a search for good 1010 compatible engines. I got back about 30 responses for good sleeved combine engines, 2 with sleeveless 1010 type engines, and 0 responses for 1010 tractor/crawler engines in good running condition. Best offer I got was something like - "ran a few years ago and now condition is unknown."
Now that scrap prices have been so high - I wonder how many good engines went to the crusher?
That's kinda what I figured as well, a combine engine isn't going to get the abuse that a crawler or tractor will get and with scrap as high as it is right now, if I can find a farmer with one in his back 40 and just wants it gone I could probably pull the motor and scrap the combine and get my $ back and then some, might even make a little $ on it. It would be nicer having a newly rebuilt but would cost a lot more $$ if I can even find the parts. I'm sure I would need a complete rebuild on this engine, I'm sure bearings are shot and rings for sure if not cylinders and pistons as well, all adds up to a lot of $$ when it's all added together.
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Found these today - grist for the mill. I know only what I read in the ads.
http://burlington.craigslist.org/grd/2936675404.html
http://burlington.craigslist.org/grd/2935509798.html
Paul
http://burlington.craigslist.org/grd/2936675404.html
http://burlington.craigslist.org/grd/2935509798.html
Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Well, I found an engine out of a 45 combine, it's an HA165 and got to hear it run before buying it. I paid a little more for it though, $500 but has good oil pressure, starts on the first compression stroke of turning the starter and doesn't show a puff of smoke at all when it's running. I'm hoping to get around to putting this in the machine in the next week or so here. First I'm going to take it to one of my friends with a pressure washer and clean it up real good and put in new front and rear main seals, lot easier doing that now than if they start leakin bad in the machine. I might paint it yellow too but not sure if I'll bother doing that yet. Eventually I'll probably end up going through this whole machine restoring it so can probably just wait to paint it when I do that. Has anyone done a swap to one of these engines on here yet, from what I've seen it looks like it should be a pretty easy swap. On another note it appears my original 1010 engine might not be as bad off as I thought it was. I pulled the air cleaner and muffler and had to raise the loader to get my block in the hydraulic ram for the loader and after pulling the muffler the thing started right up and seemed to be running pretty good, loud but good. It's still smoking quite a bit though and smoking through the valve cover breather so I'm pretty sure the rings are shot, the muffler was plugged almost solid though, the knockin sound was just the engine struggling to get the exhaust out of the chambers I bet as I don't hear any kind of knock now. Still smokes and uses oil like crazy though so I'm still gonna switch it out. Might tear this one down in my spare time tho and look for parts, might just need a slight bore and rings, then again I bet oversize pistons for it are a mint.
I put the same engine in my 2010. The conversion was not without some issues, but wit a little head scratchin' I was able to pull it off. I'm very happy with the results.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... highlight=
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... highlight=
Oh, didn't notice the link you provided. Looked through it quick and I don't think I'll have as much to do on mine. I'm switching from a gas engine to gas, the only thing I can see that I might do and have some problem with is switching the governor over from my 1010 engine to the 165. It might be easier when I get both engines out and can look at em more closely though.
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