40c rod bearings

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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krusty
430 crawler
430 crawler
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:46 pm

40c rod bearings

Post by krusty » Fri Jun 08, 2012 1:47 pm

Hey gang,

My bearing journals are in good shape but the engine developed a significant knock last week. I thought I would try the easy approach first before a complete tear down and just replace my rod bearings.

Clevite number on them is no longer valid and the Clevite catalogue for the 40 had bearings that where too large. My local JD dealer can get me some in a bit more expensive but I doubt they could tell me if they will fit. Not sure why the Clevite ones are wrong.

Journals are 2.25" which is consistent with the manual. Should I just order from the dealer?

I would order from the website but as I am in Canada shipping becomes a real problem across the border.

Krusty,

Patrick
420 crawler
420 crawler
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Location: Michigan

Post by Patrick » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:37 pm

I'm not a very experienced engine builder, but what was the inside diameter of connecting rod bearings. You said the crank journals are good but what you didnt give is the clearance.

Just curious

Pat

krusty
430 crawler
430 crawler
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Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:46 pm

Post by krusty » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:14 am

Turns out after a search on the Federal Mogul catalogue they have 2 options for the 40:

2205cp 2.249"
2210sb 2.498"

those being from early and late models. I guess I will order the right ones now.....

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Willyr
2010 crawler
2010 crawler
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Location: Downeast Maine (North of Ellsworth)

Post by Willyr » Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:57 pm

You can also get rod knock in the pistons as well you know?
former owner of a 1956 420c
All help is greatly appreciated.

Proud owner of a project 1952 JD 60

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFehqXVd9z4

krusty
430 crawler
430 crawler
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:46 pm

Post by krusty » Fri Jun 22, 2012 3:33 pm

well my new rod bearings arrived today. as I was installing them I rotated the crank for easier access to put the nuts on. decided it would be easier to rotate the crank with the plugs out and hence removed them. One plug was totally messed up and I never changed them since buying them. There was almost no gap and the sparky bit was bent to the side. Now it makes me wonder if I just had the odd misfire with the darn thing. Anyways put the new bearings in and bent the plug back to shape. Started right up and purrs like a kitten. Who knows what it was in the end but I am off to buy new spark plugs now!

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CELSESSER
1010 crawler
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Post by CELSESSER » Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:07 pm

sounds like you may have run that choke plate thingy(choke relief valve) through that cylinder. Takes something harder than gas and air to bend an electrode.
Pull the air inlet elbow off the carb and look at the choke plate. Is there a hole in it? Shouldn't be.

Chuck
1960 440ICD #461094 w/ #63 manual blade Converted to a gas engine two owners ago.

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CELSESSER
1010 crawler
1010 crawler
Posts: 260
Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 3:05 pm
Location: Northern Michigan

Post by CELSESSER » Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:08 pm

sounds like you may have run that choke plate thingy(choke relief valve) through that cylinder. Takes something harder than gas and air to bend an electrode.
Pull the air inlet elbow off the carb and look at the choke plate. Is there a hole in it? Shouldn't be.

Chuck
1960 440ICD #461094 w/ #63 manual blade Converted to a gas engine two owners ago.

krusty
430 crawler
430 crawler
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:46 pm

Post by krusty » Mon Jun 25, 2012 3:48 pm

interesting suggestion and although I have not looked I am sure it is still there as I used the choke to start it when I realized I was out of gas ;)

it sure runs fine now and I have yet to really push it but think there is much more power in it.

krusty
430 crawler
430 crawler
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:46 pm

Post by krusty » Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:51 pm

Part of the frame for the blade where it attaches to the body was not the most efficient attachment so I made some U type bolts for it. Used to be that if I moved the blade down, it would loosen and now I can blade down and lift the front of the tracks off the ground.

Anyways took it through the yard to fix a few things and dozed a 5" tree over without issue. It used to bog down when I went into something that stopped it, now it just spins the tracks. Still have no real confirmation on the engine knock, but with new rod bearings it is gone and new plugs it has much more power than it used to. Let the weather cool and the fun begin!

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