1955 John Deere 40C

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:45 pm

Hello, everyone, I'm AllenS from Star Prairie, WI and this is my first post. I just bought a 40C and am presently working on taking the slack out of the tracks. I'm starting on the right side. I made new adjusting bolts for each side. The dozer has a front blade, and with the arms for that, it is going to be tough tightening the inside adjustment nuts. Tomorrow I'm going to buy another 1 1/8" combination wrench and cut it off at a 45º angle, flip one part over and then weld it back together to tighten the bolts on the inside adjustment so the wrench has a 90º curve. Does anyone know of a better idea? Has anyone done this before?

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 9:29 pm

Its a common scene, new owner sees a slack track and remembers seeing modern equipment with tight tracks. Yet that modern equipment was made to run tight.

I seem to remember getting on it with a socket. You place the socket on the nut first, then a extension with a universal, then the ratchet. Mind you, you dont want to take all the slack out of the tracks. I believe there is to be at least one inch of slack.

Slack is measured with a straight board laid across the length of the tracks. You measure from under the board to the tip of your growser tooth.

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:56 pm

The tracks had so much slack in them, that they would come off when turning hard backing up. That's why my friend wanted to sell it. He was unable to fix it. I can put a socket on the front of the adjusting rod where I welded a nut on the threaded rod, but then you have to tighten three other nuts on the rod. Can't put a socket on a nut inches onto the rod. I have the owners manual and it shows that you have to use an open end wrench. The inside adjustment is unable to adjust with the arms for the blade in place. I farmed for 30 years using a 1950 International, 1946, 1949 John Deere tractora. This ain't my first rodeo.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1131846791 ... directlink

shinnery · Post by **shinnery** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 11:38 pm

Yep, as shown in that photo the slack is a wee tad excessive.
Bryce

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:59 am

Yeah, now after seeing it. Tighten it up.

Dont mind me with my presumptions, I really dont mean to offend. Most of the time I am trying to poke fun with them. Glad you have had some experience with them. It helps alot.

Here is your image correctly linked.

When I used the socket on mine I was torquing the head to the rear of the spring.

At least she appears to have good bushings on her.

vtjoe · Post by **vtjoe** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:15 am

yup! your tracks are too slack put a board from top of back to top of front of the tracks and measure down at the center until you have 1 1/2 inches of slack at the middle
i took a 3/4 drive 12 pt socket and sliced it with a 1/16 inch cut off wheel so as to open up the side so it could slid over the rod and then slide back onto the nut. then I welded a piece of 1/2 X 1 flat stock to the socket on the enclosed side (about 10 inches long) and now have the perfect wrench for the job! sort of resembles a fitting wrench, only at 90 degrees. it is even strong enough to give it a love tap with a hammer if needed. get it?

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 6:25 am

Thanks, Joe. You have a very good idea, better than the one I had and I shall try it. I have no other choice because the loader arms are in the way. You seem to understand the problem. Good on ya!

hydrogeo · Post by **hydrogeo** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:50 am

Maybe your loader arms are different, but I just used an open ended wrench on my 40c. The throw was limited, but it just took some patience. I found that backing off a inch or so on the back nut and using a porta power between the track frame and front idler took the tension off the adjuster nut, making the job a whole lot easier.

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 9:11 am

Hydro, there is absolutely no wiggle room for the use of an open end wrench. I still think that if I cut and then welded the handle of a combination wrench it would work. The wrench would look like an L with the short part where the box end of the combination wrench after using Joe's idea of cutting out part to slip over the 3/4" rod.

This is fun, manufacturing parts. Good thing that I'm retired!

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:53 am

Yes, your tracks are too loose, but I fear you may find that the problem is worn pins and bushings. Hard to tell in the pic, but it looks like you have 31 links in the chain, but a full size front idler. If this is the case, in all likely hood, someone knocked a link out to compensate for wear, and no matter how tight you run them, they will fall off some time.
I could be wrong, I am only judging this by pics, and maybe I counted wrong, or you have the standard front idler.
Lavoy

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 11:13 am

Lavoy, I have 31 shoes on the track. Stamped on the idler is M2769T, which is oversized, correct? The bushings on the right side have no play and the idler spins easily. I haven't gotten to the left side yet. Thank you for your thoughts, I appreciate it.

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:07 pm

With the oversize idler, you should have 32 links. By busing wear, I meant the pins and bushings in the tracks. If you have 31 links, someone has removed a link. This is most often done because there is too much wear in the pins and bushings, so they cut a link to shorten the track and get more adjustment.
Lavoy

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 12:44 pm

Yes, there is play in the track. I can't imagine what it would cost to replace all of the pins and bushings. For now, I'll just take the play out of the tracks and go from there. It won't be used hard, but I do want to use it. Later on, if it absolutely has to happen, I'll replace them. Do you know what those parts would cost?

Thank you for your advice.

johnHD · Post by **johnHD** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:36 pm

hey allen,

stupid question, if you raised the blade all the way would the adjuster be easier to get at?

nice looking machine ya got there. i'm another noobie from other side of dane county!

john

AllenS · Post by **AllenS** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:53 pm

I raised the blade, but there still was no room to work on tightening the nuts, John. What I ended up doing was cutting a 3/4" slot out of the end of a 12 point box end of a combination wrench, then cutting the box end off and welding the handle back on so the box end was at a 90º angle to the handle. Works absolutely perfect for tightening the nuts. GO PACKERS!

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1955 John Deere 40C

1955 John Deere 40C

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