1010 still not driving

rrwayside · Post by **rrwayside** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:22 pm

Made a previous post about my "first new"1010 dozer not driving on right side.Followed suggestions,bought a manual.Went through steering clutch,replaced throw out bearing,had a broken fork,made a new sleeve, had the brake relined,with some recommendations from a couple educated farm mechanics(total 50-60 years experience) cleaned up steel plates,was told fiber ones looked good.Got it back together 3 weeks later,very dissappointed,same as what it was before I "fixed" it.I can see the output shaft is turning,but not the clutch.Lost again!!!HELP>>>

andregrondin · Post by **andregrondin** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:35 am

HI !

That is a sad situation , I had a problem on mine that is was not sterring properly after rebuild , found out that my disk were all on the lower range of the spec and the clutch plate was not putting enough pressure on the disk so there were slipping , so I made a bold move of putting one xtra steel disk in there ( which is not the right way of fixing the problem) and it worked ,

whiteclipse16 · Post by **whiteclipse16** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:43 am

Not sure if it applies on the 1010, but on the 440 and other earlier models you have to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate with a special tool that Lavoy sells. If you don't do that all other adjustments will be off.

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:22 am

My first thought would be that your new brake band is grabbing somewhere. Do something to verify that you can move the sprocket or tracks on that side.
Second thought would be to verify that the clutch throw-out bearing is not touching the clutch plate fingers when your steering lever is forward.
Next check the pressure on the clutch pack by the pressure plate. Whiteclipse16 and andregrondin mentioned some solutions. You may need a new pressure plate - see Lavoy.
This is all based on your conclusion that the clutch disks are in fact good. Gil

rrwayside · Post by **rrwayside** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:42 am

I believe the brake is working fine,it will move forward and back.It will turn to the right,so I believe the brake is working.I am leaning toward the pressure plate needs adjusting.It looks as so there is not much if any clearance between the throwout bearing and fingers on the presure plate.

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:09 am

I concur with the recommendation to check adjustment of clutch pressure plate fingers. However one question- did you verify that you used the correct number of fibers and steels and in correct order? If not it may make adjustment difficult or impossible.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:19 am

The other thing I have people encounter frequently is that the old discss regardless of how good they look are worn too thin to work. That, and the pressure plate springs are too weak to do a good job.
Yes I know it is the parts guy preaching again, but I hate pulling finals myself, so virtually never reuse old clutch components.
Lavoy

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:51 pm

We often put in an extra steel to make up for wear on the discs and clean the discs and fibers in a bead blast cabinet. In the past we had heavier springs (about 25% heavier) made as well, but now our supplier is no longer making them so we have to find a new vendor.

Also, do not use any fibers that have been oiled. I have cleaned oiled discs, let them sit for a day only to see oil come to the surface.

Our biggest problem with steering clutches is that our machines often sit way to long without moving. You need to keep them stored in a shed and work them fairly regular to keep them from spoiling.

Post by **Lavoy** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:20 pm

If an extra disc can be added, that is simply a bandaid fix for an existing problem. If there is that much wear, then the existing components need to be replaced with new, it is just that simple. Kind of like running gear lube for engine oil just because your rings are worn.
As to putting in heavier springs, Deere designed the pressure plates to have a specific face pressure. The purpose of this is to allow the clutches to slip under extreme load conditions to help prevent drivetrain damage. That is the purpose of the track stop on MC-430 crawlers, and the fact that the crossbars are mounted in rubber. Putting in a spring of non-stock pressure is asking for trouble.
A brand new MC-1010 pressure plate is $125 with the correct spring pressure, not really a large investment compared to a bubblegum, bandaid fix that could easily lead to drivetrain failure.
That does not mean that any of these won't work, they will, just like most other bandaid fixes will, for a while, or long enough to dump the machine on an unsuspecting buyer. I just totally fail to see the purpose of not repairing equpiment correctly.
Lavoy

rrwayside · Post by **rrwayside** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:37 pm

I believe I have the right number of discs.I replaced the same number,8 fiber and 7 steel that were in it.My manual called for 8 of each,which I don't believe is correct,because then you would have steel against steel.Also I want to fix it correctly,hopefully it will be a long term relationship once I get the bugs worked out.Thanks to ALL that have replied.

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:52 am

The JD1010 crawlers all use 8 fiber disks. The number of steel plates varies by serial number. Serial numbers 00001 thru 31000 use 8 steel plates. Serial numbers above 31000 use 7 steel plates. Gil

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:57 am

Check inside the brake drum, on occasion I have had drums that have been marked on how many steel discs to use. First one I ever saw was on a crawler that should have used 8 steel discs, but was marked touse 7, so must have been changed at some time.
One other problem I had a customer encounter was the clutch pack was so worn, that even when adjusting the fingers on a new pressure plate, the plate facing was restricted from going out any further and it was impossible to get face presssure. He replaced the clutch discs and fixed the problem. This shouldn't be the case with yours, but wouldn't hurt to check.
Lavoy

rrwayside · Post by **rrwayside** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:38 pm

If you used 8 steel plates you would have metal against metal,I don't see how that could work.???????

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:31 pm

For some reason on some of the 1010's they spec a steel disc in the bottom of the drum, same as the late 430 and 440. With 8 of each, you start with a steel disc, and end up with a fiber against the pressure plate.
Lavoy

rrwayside · Post by **rrwayside** » Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:22 pm

For some reason my manual says to start with a fiber and end with a steel against the pressure plate,don't believe everything you read!!I am sure you are correct.Thanks

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1010 still not driving

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