advice on Gramps 40c

[Choppo]

Hi

Recently got 1953 3 roller 40c going again. Whahoooo! Had some issues like stuck clutch's, brakes etc. But I dont know where the manual is and need some advice.

I got the clutches free by filling the finals with water and toilet bowl cleaner - old guy told me that is what he used to use on siezed engines so thought I had nothing to lose. How do I adjust of check the adjustment of the clutchs (i see the adjuster through the site hole and had to move the right side adjuster to get the clutch working).

Proper track tension?

Good gasket material to use for tappet cover, inspection covers for finals, sediment bowl, gas tank?

Gas cap replacement?

Should the blade have down pressure? It is the type with the arms on the outside of the track and rams under the top track - it was sold as an attachment that could go to the front of the crawler for a blade or act like a 3 pnt hitch for an impliment? Doesn't seem to have any downpressure now.

Cam

[Howard Yoder]

It should have a little down pressure at least. If you can send me a picture or 2 of it and where your located. pcsaw@aol.com

Thanks Howard

[Choppo]

Hi Howard

Doesn't seem to have any downpressure other than wt of blade. I could send pictures if you can explain how. Oh hang on I see the insert image button now - I could get the wife to download a couple of pics.

I live near Calgary Alberta Canada.

Cam

[hydrogeo]

Are you low on fluid? On my 40c I have to hold the lever down for maybe 15 second before it starts to apply downpressure. It is annoying but have not had the time to trouble shoot it yet.

[Choppo]

Howard

I just hear the relief valve howl as soon as it hits the ground so never tried to hold it.

It is full of fluid but I havn't tried to bleed the rams in case they have air in them. Didn't think they did because they don't "chatter". The blade configuration is on the outside of the tracks (the arms) and the rams are underneith the tracks. There is actually a pic of it that pops up on this web site above but it is mounted to the back or the crawler to work like a three point hitch.

Thanks for your help
Cam

[Choppo]

Sorry Hydro

Called u Howard - is your blade the same configuration as mine?

[Lavoy]

What you have is a #1000 Tool Carrier with an MC100 dozer blade attachment.
Yes, there should be down pressure, it should lift the front of the crawler off the ground easily.
There is a pin on each rockshaft arm that can be removed for float when using the carrier on the rear with tillage implements, check to see that they are in.
The hyd valve itself can also be set up for a float position, but when you do, you have only one way hyd.
Lavoy

[Choppo]

Thank you Lavoy,

U gave me something to go on. I will check out the pins etc. How do I check the setting on the hyd to see if in float or not?

Cam

[Choppo]

Lavoy

The pins are in already must be the control valve setup.

Cam

[Lavoy]

There is a roll pin on the hyd valve "piston" or whatever you want to call it. Seems to me that has to be up, and when you take off the long hex cap that is on the RH side of the vavle, the plunger must be threaded into the valve body, not into the cap itself.
Lavoy

[JD40c]

The roll pin should be facing down and the "plunger" should be screwed into the valve body for normal operation. If the roll pin faces up, the valve will only travel half the distance and won't function normally.

[Choppo]

Thank you folks,

U are rock stars. Checking that soon. I'm going to attempt to post some photos. Im slightly more inept at computers even than rusty crawlers but fear and common seldom stop me.

OK - just looked into posting images and fear and common sense told me to wait for the wife to help. She's back in a few days will try then, sorry.

Im having soom issues with the one steering clutch. It is the one that I freed up using toilet bowl cleaner. There are two springs laying in the bottom of the final that return the brake to neutral (got past that by tying the linkage to the hand lever so when you return the clutch the brakes release), but the lever doesnt feel right. The lever also has soom not right vibration in it like something is hitting while I drive and especially in the first few inches when I start to pull it back.

There is too much "drag" or too "heavy" pulling the hand lever back and it feels like there is no springs when I pull it back. The crawler still turns fine and seems to have plenty of power to that side and the brake works but the lever doesnt feel right.

I was mucking around with the clutch adjustment (or throwout bearing?) when I was trying to get the clutch and brake to release and moved that adjuster so it contacted alot sooner. I just worried that Im going to wreck something. There is alot of rust in that final which makes it hard to know if its just rust causing the drag but whatever feels like its hitting is what Im really worried about.

Does anyone have any thoughts???

Very much appreciated from cowboy turned ranch mechanic !

Cam[/img]

[whiteclipse16]

Wonder if the toilet bowl cleaner trick, cleaned out the grease in the throwout bearing
Could be dry and that could be the odd feeling in the lever. When you pull the lever the T/O bearing is contacting the pressure plate and spins.

[Choppo]

That would make sense. No grease Any way to rectafy that now without tearing down the final drive?

Also the rusty linkage issue. Anything I can pour/spray in there that wont mess up the fiber disc's if it spreads?


Thanks
Cam

[Lavoy]

You are not going to like the answer, but there simply is not shortcut to steering clutches, only answer is to pull the final, and fix what is wrong. I would also advise to fix everything else in there while you are there unless you like rework and pulling final drives.
Lavoy