new guy...old 440
new guy...old 440
Hi first post....I have a old 440 that I got when my father in law passed...motor was rebuilt about 10 years ago I think he went through the trans..but the final drive on the left needs help bad. when you pull the stick to turn left it stops the motor...I tore it apart and if I can post pics this is what I found....I think it needs bearings...is there a place with a parts list with prices....thanks Kurt
440 IC 445179
440 IC 445179
You need to pull the final off, there is no way you will get the case clean enough to reassemble otherwise.
Final bearing kit is $225, but you will likely need more than that by the time you are done, not including what you find in the clutch housing.
Axle will have to be machined where the seal rides I am sure. You will need gaskets, and shim packs, about $50.
I keep most or all of them on hand.
Lavoy
Final bearing kit is $225, but you will likely need more than that by the time you are done, not including what you find in the clutch housing.
Axle will have to be machined where the seal rides I am sure. You will need gaskets, and shim packs, about $50.
I keep most or all of them on hand.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Ya I figured it would have to come apart more...the axle is the easy part...I plan on welding it up then turning it down on the lathe soon..would I be safe to assume the diameter where the seal ride is the same as where the bearing is pressed on?? that was my first plan of attack...other problem is the thing is 230 miles north of me, outside in the cold...and I only get up once a month. No turning back now ....Im sure the old man is looking down laughing at every time I touch it....
Kurt,
Welcome to the board.
I agree with Nick that the steering clutch on that side is stuck and you stall it with the steering brake. Not uncommon with these old dry clutch's that sit for a while.
The old girl must be sitting somewhere in the eastern U.P.
Mine came out of the western U.P. My finals had a mix of grease and oil in them but didn't have the dirt/metal filings like yours.
You might have a hard time getting a smooth enough surface for the seal by welding and turning down. Also what will the heat do to the shaft ? You might see if a ready sleave might work better.
Not sure if the seal diameter is the same or a little smaller than the bearing seat diam.
When replacing that seal it requires a special tool(#JD230 (AM2774T)) that you can make or can buy from a member of this board(if he still has some). It is outlined in the service manual (SM-2023)which is something you WILL need to put this back together correctly. The manual is the best tool you can buy.
Have FUN! (don't add up the reciepts)
Chuck
Welcome to the board.
I agree with Nick that the steering clutch on that side is stuck and you stall it with the steering brake. Not uncommon with these old dry clutch's that sit for a while.
The old girl must be sitting somewhere in the eastern U.P.
Mine came out of the western U.P. My finals had a mix of grease and oil in them but didn't have the dirt/metal filings like yours.
You might have a hard time getting a smooth enough surface for the seal by welding and turning down. Also what will the heat do to the shaft ? You might see if a ready sleave might work better.
Not sure if the seal diameter is the same or a little smaller than the bearing seat diam.
When replacing that seal it requires a special tool(#JD230 (AM2774T)) that you can make or can buy from a member of this board(if he still has some). It is outlined in the service manual (SM-2023)which is something you WILL need to put this back together correctly. The manual is the best tool you can buy.
Have FUN! (don't add up the reciepts)
Chuck
1960 440ICD #461094 w/ #63 manual blade Converted to a gas engine two owners ago.
Thanks guys....She is sitting in Kalkaska and was just west of Houghton Lake since 92 before that it was in Lake Orion since about 85..the father in law and his brother passed it back and fourth a few times .....No I really dont want to add up the $$ ...I mainly use it to plow snow and I know it would be cheaper to pay a guy to do it...but what fun is that?? Here is the paper work I got with it. Thanks again.
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... sort=3&o=0
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... sort=3&o=0
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Thu Aug 27, 2009 10:08 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta
440 Fun
You might want to consider buying a complete good final drive and then install new bearings and seals. Your's looks fairly rough. From the prices I see them go for in the states, I am guessing a complete assembly should be fairly reasonable and will get you going alot quicker than rebuilding and machining yours.
Yes, a 440 is a fine tractor for pushing snow. They are a nice little crawler. I still bring up the 440 ICD with a 6 way dozer that my dad sold in the early 90's. I may have to track down the purchaser and get it back.
I recently purchased a non-moving 440 ICD, starting to get excited about working on it over the x-mas break. It needs transmission and/or rear end work. I'm lucky that we have all the parts on hand, I think my dad has 2 or more complete 5 speed transmission / rear end housings if my problem is too deep in the tranmission to mess with. I want to have atleast 3 days in a row to work on it, could be too much of a task to finish in one weekend. Also need to find the correct non-deluxe seat that mine is going to require.
Yes, a 440 is a fine tractor for pushing snow. They are a nice little crawler. I still bring up the 440 ICD with a 6 way dozer that my dad sold in the early 90's. I may have to track down the purchaser and get it back.
I recently purchased a non-moving 440 ICD, starting to get excited about working on it over the x-mas break. It needs transmission and/or rear end work. I'm lucky that we have all the parts on hand, I think my dad has 2 or more complete 5 speed transmission / rear end housings if my problem is too deep in the tranmission to mess with. I want to have atleast 3 days in a row to work on it, could be too much of a task to finish in one weekend. Also need to find the correct non-deluxe seat that mine is going to require.
Jason Benesch
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
John Deere 420, 430, 440 & 350C With 3 Point Hitch
John Deere 400G With Winch
John Deere 2010 Crawler Dozer
John Deere 420, 430, 435 & 440 Wheel Tractors
Jason,
I have new repro standard seats available now when you get to that point.
Lavoy
I have new repro standard seats available now when you get to that point.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
well its the first step....I hope there is no pitting or voids.....
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... sort=3&o=0
http://s1280.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... sort=3&o=0
if there is pits try to find a speedi sleeve ......i had a shaft welded up and turned it down it had pits but was a clutch throwout shaft and was only for bushing to ride on so it worked great
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
I have tried to sleeve an axle in the past, and the sleeve swelled so much by the time I got it to where the seal rides, it was real loose. The other problem was the splines left an imprint in the sleeve even after I got it to where it needed to be.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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