Hydraulic line routing on a 40C and #61 blade

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Hydraulic line routing on a 40C and #61 blade

Post by JD40c » Mon May 20, 2013 11:23 pm

I need to pick up another fitting, so can't test it yet, but can you guys tell me if I have the lines hooked up right?

Image

That cylinder also has a depth stop setup on it. Is that technically correct for a #61 blade assembly?
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller

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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 21, 2013 7:59 am

Looks good to me, and yes on the cylinder.
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Post by JD40c » Tue May 21, 2013 6:45 pm

Turns out I had to flop the lines.

After bleeding the air out, the cylinder is VERY slow to retract but extends fine. Is that by design, or is there something wrong with the internal valve in the cylinder? It's slow enough that grading with the blade would be difficult (too slow to rise when necessary). The engine also labors a bit when retracting, but is fine when extending.

The blade frame isn't installed yet, so there is almost zero load on the cylinder currently.
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Post by JD40c » Tue May 21, 2013 8:54 pm

Well...it got much better at cycling, but it's still being a real pain to bleed all the air out. Is there a trick to it? Should I hang the cylinder above the control valve, or below to help get the air out during bleeding?
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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 21, 2013 9:40 pm

On occasion I have had the depth stop cylinders be slow to retract. Normally it is a binding or something in the depth stop mechanism.
It should bleed pretty fast with the fitting facing up like that.
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Post by JD40c » Tue May 21, 2013 9:46 pm

What does it mean when the engine labors some when running the cylinder one direction but not the other?

The level in the hydraulic tank is at the full mark, so it's not running out of fluid.
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Post by hydrogeo » Thu May 23, 2013 7:24 pm

JD40c wrote:What does it mean when the engine labors some when running the cylinder one direction but not the other?

The level in the hydraulic tank is at the full mark, so it's not running out of fluid.
It must be pushing against a restriction or binding in that direction to cause the pressure to ramp up against the pump. Could it be something in your valve and not the cylinder?

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Post by Lavoy » Fri May 24, 2013 8:01 am

For me, they have always bound up some when retracting. Pull the depth stop rod out a little by hand and see if that makes a difference. The little tab on the rod should be about flush with the casting if I remember correctly.
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Post by JD40c » Mon May 27, 2013 6:21 pm

The previous #76 blade worked fine on the crawler, so I doubt the on-board valve stack is the problem.

The cylinder is marked a4720r. I'm not having any luck pulling up a parts diagram at Deere for that. Can any of you guys help me out?

***Update:
Never mind. Page 60-30 in the 40 series parts catalog has it.

Could I pull the guts out of the depth stop valving and still use the cylinder? I'd have to leave the stop rod in place, obviously, to keep from leaking oil out.
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Post by Lavoy » Tue May 28, 2013 7:53 am

I don't think so, but can't swear to it.
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Post by JD40c » Tue May 28, 2013 10:14 pm

The problem is intermittent which pretty much has me convinced it's the valve in the cylinder itself. Sometimes the blade rises nicely, sometimes it doesn't.

I also didn't realize an average oxy-acetylene cutting torch could heat 4" X 1/2" steel enough to let you bend it with a bar. One of the two arms on the lift frame was bent more than an inch out. Was able to get it straightened. It will still need to be repaired properly, but it'll do for the iron show I'm going to this weekend in Pendleton, OR.
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Post by Lavoy » Thu May 30, 2013 4:49 pm

Jeremy,
Sent you a couple e-mails, guessing they didn't go through?
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Post by JD40c » Thu May 30, 2013 7:16 pm

They did. Just been busy getting ready for the iron show.
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Post by Lavoy » Fri May 31, 2013 8:36 am

No problem, have fun.
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Post by JD40c » Sun Jun 02, 2013 9:01 pm

Ok....I actually moved some dirt with the dozer today. The howling noise is definitely coming from the valve on the tractor, not the cylinder. Sometimes the blade lifts up quickly as it should, but most of the time it's slow, like probably 15 seconds to raise all the way.

When we were hooking up the hydraulic lines, my buddy cranked the pipe elbows around pretty hard to get the hoses lined up. Is there any way that would mess up something in the valve? What else in there could move a bit, get stuck, and cause the howling sound as well as the engine laboring?
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